The first course, of rillettes, with a condiment, was the fruit of an impulse purchase.

• pork rillette (pastured pork, quatre épices, bay, garlic, vinegar, and brandy) from Hudson & Charles,  served with a Bergamot marmalade from Westside Market, and slices of whole wheat bread (formerly labeled ‘Integrale’) from Eataly

The hake appeared on the table on Saturday because we hadn’t enjoyed that noble fish in three months, and because I had spotted some very fresh-looking fillets at the Greenmarket earlier in the day.  As I had once before, again trying to avoid turning on the oven on a summer evening, I used a recipe originally calling for cod, merluzzo dorato, I substituted hake (making it nasello dorato), as the two fish are very similar.  It’s the late Kyle Phillips‘s terrific recipe.

• hake fillets from Seatuck Fish Company, dredged in seasoned flour and dipped in a beaten egg from Millport Dairy, sautéed in butter, along with a handful of chopped fresh oregano from Lani’s Farm, then sprinkled with lemon juice and the pan juices that remained
• their outer petals peeled off and discarded, stems and tips trimmed, baby artichokes from S. & S.O. Produce Farms, quartered lengthwise (each placed in a bowl of water and lemon juice while being processed) and drained when all were ready to cook, added to a layer of olive oil over a medium flame in a large non-reactive pan (in this case, enameled cast iron), seasoned with salt and pepper, stirred 5 to 7 minutes until slightly browned, some red pepper flakes, two finely-chopped fresh garlic cloves from Lucky Dog Organic, and a couple tablespoons of chopped parsley from Keith’s Farm added to the pan, the vegetables finally transferred to plates and sprinkled with a few drops of a chianti wine vinegar

 

• the wine was a Spanish white, Naia D.O. Rueda 2014, from Verdejo old vines
• the music was Mozart’s ‘Così Fan Tutte‘ the Karl Böhm recording with Ludwig, Schwarzkopf, Kraus, and Schmidt,

This meal was really tossed together in minutes.  We had returned relatively late from an evening of David Moss and Harry Partch because afterward we visited with friends who were also in the audiences. Also, it was a ‘school night’, so we couldn’t eat as late as we might otherwise.

• fresh Rana spinach-and-ricotta-filled ravioli from Eataly, cooked and drained, mixed with a handful of fairly small garlic scapes from Lucky Dog Organic which had been sautéed in olive oil until almost tender, then sections of a ripe heirloom tomato from Norwich Meadows Farm gently stirred into the mix, and chopped fresh oregano from Lani’s Farm tossed on top
• the wine was a white Italian, Le Salse Verdicchio di Matelica 2014
• the music was Barbara Benary’s ‘Aural Shoehorning’

I’ve lost my paper ‘skate file’, at least temporarily, but with the help of earlier entries on this food blog, last night I was able to reconstruct my favorite ray recipe pretty much in the form I had used several times in the past.  This is, after all, the original purpose of this site, and it probably shows that it really can be used as a recipe source, at least for anyone who has more than a passing acquaintance with a kitchen.

• four skate wing sections from Blue Moon Fish NYC, coated with a coarse polenta and seasoned with salt and pepper, then sautéed in olive oil for a few minutes, removed from the pan, and butter, chopped shallots from John D. Madura Farm, sliced fresh garlic from Lucky Dog Organic, and segments of garlic scapes from Lucky Dog Organic, previously softened in warm olive oil, introduced into the pan and stirred over a heat now lowered, followed by the addition of chopped parsley from Keith’s Farm and a little more butter
• boiled ‘Augusta’ new potatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm, drained, dried in the warm pot in which they had been cooked, halved, then rolled in olive oil, cut chives from Stokes Farm, salt, and pepper
• fava beans (about 1.4 lbs, in their pods, for these two servings) from Berried Treasures, removed from their pods and their skins removed, briefly cooked in olive oil, then tossed with spearmint from Phillips Farm, salt, and pepper
• the wine was a German white, a Pfalz, Friedrich Becker Family Pinot Blanc 2013, ordered fromAppellation Wines
• the music was the wind sextet in E flat major by Ignaz Josef Pleyel

(now everyone knows that I remove my ring and my watch while working in the kitchen)

 

The vegetables were beginning to pile up, and I had a little prosciutto on hand, so I decided to make a dinner of antipasti alone.  A bonus: whatever cooking would be involved could be done in advance, plus, because nothing was going to have to be warm on the table, we could linger as long as we wished, as we do with our regular ‘picnics‘.  This time it was with Monteverdi.

• Colameco’s prosciutto from Whole Foods; pan-grilled baby yellow squash from Berried Treasures, finished with spearmint from Phillips Farm; one pan-grilled quartered spring red onion from Tamarack Hollow Farm; pan-grilled baby fennel from Eckerton Hill Farm, finished with the fennel fronds, chopped; Tuscan kale, braised with crushed fennel seed and dried chile pepper; Korean cucumbers from Bodhitree Farm, sliced thinly and tossed with olive oil, Chianti wine vinegar, crushed red pepper, and a bit of sugar; heirloom tomatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm and Bodhitree Farm, along with two tiny golden cherry tomatoes from Eckerton Hill Farm, dresssed with good olive oil and tossed with chopped fresh oregano; and slices of Balthazar’s ‘Potato-Onion Fendu’, purchased at Whole Foods
• the wine was a French rosé, Château Soucherie, Rosé de Loire, Cuvée L’Astrée 2014
• the music was Claudio Monteverdi’s ‘Orfeo’, led by Jordi Savall

This one was totally improvised. I had some very small yellow summer squash on hand, the nucleus of a head of radicchio, some mint, a lemon, and some great olives which I pitted two days earlier but then decided not to use, and of course I had a great artisanal pasta.

Very nice.

• twelve ounces of Afeltra spaghetti from Eataly, tossed with about half a dozen small yellow squash from Berried Treasures, thinly-sliced, seasoned and pan grilled, some torn radicchio leaves from Tamarack Hollow Farm, olive oil, both lemon zest and lemon juice, a few pitted black olives, and torn spearmint leaves from Phillips Farm
• the wine was a Sicilian white, Corvo Insolia 2013 from Philippe Wine in Chelsea, on our corner
• the music was Jordi Saval’s album, ‘Mare Nostrum‘

I cannot say enough about these crab cakes as a concept!   They’re not only delicious, but also incredibly simple to prepare, can be quickly put onto the table, and, possibly most importantly – at least for people like ourselves – extremely useful they are when the cook is unable to go outside foraging for a dinner entrée.

The last item in that list of virtues assumes that the package had been kept frozen in the freezer, but defrosted in time for a quick sauté.  I don’t know how long it takes a package of two crab cakes to defrost in the refrigerator, but I usually manage to have the foresight to move them there before going to bed the night before I expect to serve them.

The crab cakes I use, pre-cooked and packaged in twos, are from the PE & DD Seafood stand, which can be found in the Union Square Greenmarket on both Saturdays and Mondays, and I usually pick up a package on my every visit.

I neglected to mention one other virtue of this particular form of this particular order of decapoda:  Crabs can be difficult, but this represents certainly the most accessible way – by far – to enjoy one of the most supremely delicious kinds of seafood available.

An interesting aspect of putting together a dinner with crab cakes is that, at least in my own experience, it inspires improvisation in the sauce or condiment, and welcomes creativity in the treatment of the vegetables which will share the plate, including the assembly of things which are not normally combined, or even featured as sides.

• crab cakes from PE & DD Seafood (ingredients: crab, egg, flour, red & green peppers, garlic, salt, pepper, breadcrumbs, mayonnaise, milk, celery, parsley), heated in a heavy iron pan, three or four minutes to each side, served on top of a fresh tomato sauce composed of the tomatoes set aside after I had made ‘tomato water’ for a tautog fillet a few nights earlier
• mixed baby greens from Lani’s Farm, dressed with good olive oil, lemon, salt, and pepper
• small, tender garlic scapes from Lucky Dog Organic, cut into approximately one-inch lengths, sautéed, seasoned, sprinkled with a little bit of torn Full Bloom Market Garden basil from Whole Foods and spearmint from Phillips Farm
• the wine was an Argentinian white, Guenguenheim Valle EscondidoTorrontés 2014
• the music was Bach’s Orchestral Suites

About ten days ago I happened to be passing the fresh handmade pasta bar at Eataly on the day our neighborhood store, one of my favorite food sources, was announcing that the next day it would be selling – for one day only – a filled pasta special of Scarpinocc.  They had examples on display that day, but not for sale.  These traditional forms would be filled with grana padano, taleggio, bread crumbs, and spices, then hand pinched into something which I thought looked like a bicorne (although legend would have it that the shape mimics that of the village’s characteristic local felt, or leather, shoe).  Of course I returned on the next day and brought home a small box – enough for two.

The next step was to investigate how it was usually served, and also what to serve as an antipasto.

The origins of Scarpinocc were in the humble northern Italian town of Parre, in the Lombardy province of Bergamo, “Qui non c’è mai stata la possibilità di grandi coltivazioni” [Here there was never the possibility of large crops]. The unique pasta form returns to the town every year for la Festa degli Scarpinocc di Parre, during the third weekend of August, which of course makes Eataly’s homage in early July a bit premature.

But delicious.  It seems the traditional sauce would be butter, sage (I used Rogowski Farm’s), and ‘cheese’.  The use of both taleggio and parmesan showed up in my online searches, but I wasn’t sure how I would introduce the softer alternative to the dish, so I went with the grating cheese, here Red Cow parmesan, also from Eatlay, slivered on the top).

For the starter/antipasto, I served something traditional from the opposite end of the Italian peninsula, sliced Calabrese salame from Colameco’s, drizzled with olive oil, with a lightly-dressed (good olive oil, lemon, salt, pepper) salad of a delicious local radicchio, from Tamarack Hollow Farm.

 

There was a cheese course, if only barely, since we had already satisfied ourselves.  It was pretty American;  there hadn’t been a line that day at the Eatlay cheese counter, so I asked one of the people I usually see there what he felt especially good about at the moment.  He immediately replied, “have you tried this cheddar?”  I had almost forgotten about cheddar, because I have come to think of it as more suitable to the kind of food I usually don’t prepare, and more recently because, well, it was now summer.  I tasted it;  it was ‘Flory’s ‘Truckle’, an artisanal cheddar-style cow cheese from Iowa. It was fantastic.

Accompanying the “barely” cheese was toast from a sourdough bâtard by She Wolf Bakery at the Greenmarket

 

• the wine was an Italian white, Damilano Langhe Arneis 2013
• the music was Gershwin, in beautiful orchestral performances by the New Zealand Symphony and James Judd

I’m indebted to Rhode Island for this meal. Ever since I learned that ‘blackfish’ was the same species I knew as ‘tautog’ when I lived in Rhode Island, it’s become a New York favorite.

I had arrived a little late at the Union Square Greenmarket on Saturday, where both Eric and Paul, working the stall of Pura Vida Fisheries, suggested I choose the one remaining blackfish/tautog fillet.  It looked beautiful, and I wanted to take the suggestion, but the problem was that it barely weighed half a pound.   Some background:  Every time I visit, as Paul wraps up my fish choice he asks, “what else?”, and every time I have to respond that I can only handle one fish at a time.  Because I wanted to fill out my ration for the evening, this time I think I was able to make him happy.

They had Scallops which had been harvested that very morning, and scallops would be a natural choice to go with the tautog. I might have found a way to include both the shell- and fin-fish on the same plate had not Franca at Berried Treasures a few minutes later presented me with a small handful of fava beans (mixed inadvertently with a few peas).  My entrée had suddenly grown into two separate courses.

 

The berries which constituted the third course were something of a lagniappe, since I had spotted them a little later at Norwich Meadows Farm where I was only looking for a contorno for the fillet (I zoomed in on some very healthy looking lacinato, or cavalo nero).

The debt for this very pleasant meal had thus been extended to at least two other farmers.

The first course featured the scallops.

• scallops which had been harvested that same morning, from Pura Vida Fisheries, washed, drained, and dried very thoroughly, then pan grilled, finished with a squeeze of lemon juice, and drizzled with olive oil, accompanied on the plate with a small amount of fava beans and an even smaller number of peas, both from Berried treasures, briefly blanched in salted water

The tautog dominated the main course.

• tautog, or blackfish, from Pura Vida Fisheries [prepared following a recipe by Melissa Clark published in the Times four years ago, substituting a mix of excellent cayenne pepper and a dulce paprika for Aleppo pepper], seasoned, seared, cooked with halved Gaeta olives from Buon Italia, and drizzled with ‘tomato water’ prepared earlier, using heirloom tomatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm and rosemary from Stokes Farm, finished with torn basil from a live Full Bloom Market Garden plant from Whole Foods, and spearmint from Phillips Farm
• lacinato from Norwich Meadows Farm, braised with two small heads of fresh garlic form Lucky Dog Organic, salt, and pepper

The dessert was a small dish of berries.

• mixed raspberries (black, red, and golden) from Norwich Meadows Farm, with a dollop of Madagascar Vanilla Ciao Bello gelato, then garnished with torn spearmint – and sprigs of spearmint – from Phillips Farm

The accompaniments, as usual, were wine and music.

• the wine was a French (Bordeau) white, Château Perron Graves 2014
• the music was an album of early-seventeenth-century dances, ‘Terpsichore – Muse Of The Dance / Sempe, Capriccio Stravagante‘

This meal tasted at least as good as it looks in this picture.

• four 3- to 4-ounce Spanish mackerel fillets from Blue Moon Fish Company, washed, dried, brushed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, pan grilled over high heat for six or seven minutes, transferred to plates and completed with a salsa of cut tomatoes (golden grape Florida tomatoes from Eataly and Maine cherry ‘cocktail’ tomatoes from Whole Foods) which were tossed with olive oil, washed and drained salted capers, some finely-sliced fresh garlic from Lucky Dog Organic, lemon juice, salt, and pepper
• two small white Patty Pan squash from Keith’s Farm, sliced horizontally, tossed with olive oil, lemon juice, chopped fresh garlic from Lucky Dog Organic, salt, and pepper, then pan grilled for about six minutes, added to the plates with the mackerel, and sprinkled with wood sorrel leaves from Bodhitree Farm
• the wine was a Spanish white, Naia D.O. Rueda 2014, from Verdejo old vines
• the music was Richard Strauss’s ‘Ein Heldenleben’, with Bernard Haitink conducting the Chicago Symphony Orchestra [I can never separate the sound from “The Big Story,” a 1940s Friday night radio drama about heroic newspaper reporters]

• the pasta salad was some spaghettini and snow peas from a dinner of a few days ago, served at room temperature, this time accompanied by some baby greens from Lani’s Farm

• The entrée was a fillet of striped bass from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, marinated for about half an hour in lemon juice, olive oil, sliced fresh garlic from Lucky Dog Organic, stems of fresh oregano from Lani’s Farm, and freshly-ground black pepper, drained and pan-grilled for a few minutes, finished with lemon juice, olive oil, and a mixture of more fresh oregano, now chopped, and parsley from Stokes Farm [the basic recipe is Martha Stewart’s]
• the vegetable was a generous serving of minutina from Norwich Meadows Farm, wilted in medium-hot olive oil in which some sliced fresh garlic from Lucky Dog Organic had [almost] begun to brown

• The dark sweet cherries were from Healthway Farms

 

• The wine, for the first two courses, was a New York white from the Finger Lakes, Brooklyn Winery Chardonnay  2013
• the music was Johann Nepomuk Hummel’s Piano Sonata No. 2 in E-flat major, played by Hae-Won Chang