I had learned from the Union Square Greenmarket app that there would be no fish sellers there Saturday (almost certainly because of the extreme cold), but I figured if I got there early enough, I might still be able to buy some local (Newburgh, an indoor aquaculture farm) shrimp for dinner that day.  I also had to pick up some fresh vegetables for meals over the next 3 days, so the walk in the bitter cold and snow was going to be worth it anyway.

I was lucky with the entrée search, and came home with some”colossals”, just about the last of Jean Claude’s stock that day.

The first course, dominated by slices of an Italian smoked ham, made the meal something of an odd surf ‘n turf event, but the fact that there was also a strong smoky aroma and taste in the main course (a  smoked pepper) brought it all together.

• five or 6 ounces of thinly-sliced Recla Speck Alto Adige IGP, from Bolzano, purchased at Eataly, drizzled lightly with a very good Sicilian olive oil, from from Agricento, Azienda Agricola Mandranova (exclusively Nocellara olives)
• a few leaves of ‘baby Romano’ (oak leaf speckled lettuce) from Eckerton Hill Farm dressed with the same olive oil, Maldon salt, and freshly-ground black pepper
• slices of a buckwheat baguette from Runner & Stone Bakery

The Speck was followed by a plate of the shrimp and a side of tomatoes and baby leek.

I prepared the shrimp in the same way I had for the 2 years I’ve been enjoying ECO Shrimp Garden’s harvests.

• one teaspoon of chopped Rocambole garlic from Keith’s Farm, heated inside a heavy (13 1/2″) cast iron pan over a very low flame until the garlic had colored nicely, a pinch of Spanish saffron, pieces of one dried chipotle pepper from Northshire Farms in the Union Square Greenmarket (I have always used a whole one, but this time tried the broken pieces of one of the peppers in the package), one crushed section of a dried orange-gold habanada pepper, and a teaspoon of freshly-ground dried cumin seed from Eataly added, all of it stirred for a minute or two, then 15 ounces (10 count) of Hudson Valley farmed ‘colossal’ shrimp from Eco Shrimp Garden (that I had cut the length of their backs, from head to tail, for ease of shelling later, added, seasoned with salt and pepper, the heat brought up a bit, and the shrimp cooked until firm while turned twice [they were delicious, but  slightly overcooked, probably because I had overcompensated for their larger-than-normal size], served with a generous squeeze of lemon, garnished on the plates with chopped parlsley from S. & S.O. Produce and micro scallion from Two Guys from Woodbridge [the micro green touch was my own, after completing Mark Bittman’s terrific recipe, and may seem like overkill, but they worked with the other flavors, and look pretty good]

NOTE: There was more than enough sauce in the end, so I gathered what I wasn’t going to use, allowed it to cool a bit, and swirled it into a couple tablespoons of softened butter, to use as a flavored butter in some future meal.

• one Japanese scallion from Norwich Meadows Farm, washed, dried, sliced lengthwise, then halved, cooked in heated olive oil until wilted, 6 Maine Backyard Farms ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods Market, halved, slipped into the pan and heated briefly, then a generous amount of chopped thyme from Stoke’s Farm, some sea salt, and black pepper added and stirred into the vegetables, served with a little more of the chopped thyme

• the wine was a California (Lodi) white, Karen Birmingham Sauvignon Blanc Lodi 2016, from Naked Wines
• the music was Pergolesi’s 1734 opera, ‘Adriano in Siria’, performed by Romina Basso (Mezzo Soprano), the unbelievably-beautiful voice of Franco Fagioli (Countertenor), Yuriy Mynenko (Countertenor), Juan Sancho (Tenor), Cigdem Soyarslan (Soprano), with Jan Tomasz Adamus conducting the Capella Cracoviensis

Today’s lunch was an ensemble of leftovers, easily thrown together minutes after I had returned from a wintry rendezvous with the Union Square Greenmarket.

I knew when I had asked for a pound of fresh tagliatelle earlier in the week that it would be too much for just the two of us, but it looked so good inside the glass case at Luca Donofrio’s pastificio inside the Flatiron Eataly, and it was so inexpensive, I decided it would just be rude to order less.

We enjoyed most of it on Wednesday, with some leftover pigeon sauce, when it had basically been the only part of a meal that wasn’t a leftover.

Today some of that same pasta became the central leftover feature of another meal. The amount not used 3 days ago today, tossed then in a bowl with olive oil, covered,  and placed in the refrigerator, became an almost instant lunch for the two of us, simply heated with a little olive oil and mixed or sprinkled with some more leftovers that had been hanging around the kitchen: one herb that had already been chopped, a bit of crushed dried heatless pepper, and some toasted homemade breadcrumbs (that had not been used on a smoked eel pasta)

Even the bread had been ‘leftover’ from earlier meals, but, while purchased days ago,  the Bread Alone sourdough miche was still fresh.

The whole meal was far more delicious than the negligible effort it required would have suggested.

We both agreed that this was absolutely the most delicious smoked pork we had ever had – in any form. I’d say it was almost entirely about the virtue of the supplier, Flying Pigs Farm, but I would also have to add that, over time, I’ve learned a little about how to best enjoy this wonderful butchers’ creation.

It’s also astonishingly easy to do. To put it as simply as possible, find the best smoked pork chops you can (like Flying Pigs Farm or Millport Dairy in the Union Square Greenmarket, Ottomanelli’s on Bleecker Street in the West Village, Schaller & Weber on Second Avenue and 86th Street, Dickson Farm Stand in the Chelsea Market) and some good pre-packaged sauerkraut (in a jar or plastic bag), and you’re already halfway there.

There are almost an infinite number of dishes to accompany this classic, although only a very few are classics themselves. Last night I went with the non-classics, but I stuck with a classic wine.

• * one 16-ounce glass jar of sauerkraut (simply cabbage and salt) from Millport Dairy Farm, drained and very well-rinsed in several changes of cold water, drained once again and placed inside an enameled cast iron oval covered pot with one chopped sweet yellow onion from Norwich Meadows Farm, one cored, peeled, chopped  ‘Ashmead’s Kernel’ apple from Samascott Orchards, one cup of an Oregon (Illinois Valley) white, Foris Wine Shop Dry Gewürztraminer 20168, 9 smashed whole juniper berries, and about the same number of whole black peppercorns, a little salt, and a tablespoon of olive oil, all brought to a boil, simmered over a low flame, stirring occasionally, for less than half an hour, covered, and then uncovered for 20 or 25 minutes more, and near the end of that time joined by two 9-ounce smoked pork chops from Flying Pigs Farm that had been thoroughly dried and then briefly seared on both sides inside an enameled cast iron pan with a little olive oil and butter, slightly buried in the sauerkraut where they were heated for 10 or 15 minutes, the chops and sauerkraut then arranged on 2 plates
• * a small amount of wild cress from Lani’s Farm, dressed with olive oil, Maldon salt, and freshly-ground black pepper
• * most of 2 bunches of French breakfast radishes from Eckerton Hill Farm, all that remained from two earlier meals where some had been used as simple crudités, washed, the green stems and little white ‘tails’ removed tossed in a bowl with a little, olive oil, a pinch of dried golden habanada pepper, sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then roasted for 20 to 25 minutes or so, at 375º, inside a medium Pampered Chef unglazed pan
• * the wine was spot on for this meal, a German (Pfalz) white, Friedrich Becker Pinot Blanc 2013, that had remained from a purchase some time ago from our very-much-missed former neighborhood wine shop, Appellation Wine & Spirits
• the music was Francesco Maria Veracini‘s 1735 London opera, ‘Adriano In Siria‘, Fabio Biondi conducting the ensemble, Europa Galante

The American Seafood folks are back in the Union Square Greenmarket, and inside their stall on Wednesday Warren seemed to know exactly what I wanted, pointing to 2 perfectly-sized and shaped, very fresh looking swordfish, showing only the tiniest bit of a bloodline.

• * two 6-ounce swordfish steaks off of Scott Rucky’s fishing vessel, ‘Dakota’, from American Seafood Company in the Union Square Greenmarket, marinated for half an hour in a mixture of olive oil, chopped winter savory from Stokes Farm, a very small amount of crushed dried peperoncino Calabresi secchi from Buon Italia, and a tiny amount of chopped red shallot from Norwich Meadows Farm, drained well, covered on both sides with a coating of homemade dried breadcrumbs, pan-grilled over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, removed, seasoned with a little sea salt, a little juice from a Whole Foods Market organic lemon squeezed on top, sprinkled with micro scallion from Two Guys from Woodbridge, and drizzled with a little olive oil

• Brussels sprouts from John D. Madura Farms, snapped directly off their 2-foot stalk, washed and dried, then tossed with olive oil, sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, roasted in a 400º oven until browned and crisp on the outside (when they will taste surprisingly sweet and rather nutty)
• slices of a whole wheat sourdough Miche from Bread Alone, with the further addition of a few drops of olive oil [not pictured]
• the wine was an Italian (Sicily) white, Corvo Bianco 2015, from Philippe Liquors and Wines

• the music was Handel’s 1723 opera, ‘Ottone, re di Germania‘ [Otto, King of Germany], George Petrou conducting Il Pomo d’Oro, with Anna Starushkevych (Mezzo Soprano) as Matilde; Ann Hallenberg (Mezzo Soprano) as Gismonda; the album’s hot cover boy, Max Emanuel Cenčić (countertenor), as the eponymous 10th-century Ottonian Holy Roman Emperor; Xavier Sabata (a second countertenor), as Adalberto; Lauren Snouffer (Soprano) as Teofane; and Pavel Kudinov (Bass) as Emireno

This meal included many of the same players we enjoyed in a much more ambitious meal the night before. It was a small triumph of home economics,* and the ingredients made it nearly as delicious as they had the first time around.

It was also dramatically easier to put together.

The dinner began with an appetizer which utilized the offal (hearts and livers, in this case) of the 2 pigeons we had enjoyed on Monday.

• eight slices of a more-than-day-old buckwheat baguette from Runner & Stone Bakery, toasted on top of the stove on my ‘Camp-A-Toaster’, then sautéed in a little olive oil, turning several times, until they were all crispy and succulent, spread with the livers and hearts of two California farmed pigeons from D’Artagnan,  purchased from Frank at O. Ottomanelli & Sons Prime Meat Market, that had been briefly sautéed in a little olive oil inside a medium tin-lined copper skillet after a bit of finely-chopped Keith’s Farm Rocambole garlic and several tiny chopped scallions from Willow Wisp Farm had first been softened, the offal bits removed and finely chopped, a small amount of chopped thyme from Stokes Farm, about a teaspoon of tomato paste, a splash of a dry Oregon Gewürztraminer, sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper all added to the pan and mixed together, the chopped pigeon innards returned to the pan and stirred with the rest of the ingredients
• a bit of wild cress from Lani’s Farm, dressed with a very good Sicilian olive oil, from from Agricento, Azienda Agricola Mandranova (using exclusively Nocellara olives) sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper

* Basically, the only thing in the main, or pasta course, that had not been a part of an earlier meal, or originally purchased to be a part of another meal, was the pasta itself.

There were mushrooms! They had originally been gathered to be a part of a different recipe for squab than the one I ended up using.

• three quarters of a pound of fresh tagliatelle from Luca Donofrio’s pastificio inside the Flatiron Eataly, cooked for only about one minute, drained, tossed with olive oil and a little of the reserved pasta water, arranged in shallow bowls, topped with a sauce that had begun the day before as the rich liquid in which the pigeons had been braised, now finished with a small amount of chipotle pepper adobo sauce (from a container that had contributed to this years Thanksgiving meal), and further enriched by the addition of 8 ounces of chopped Bulich Mushroom Company shiitake mushrooms that had been sautéed in olive oil until lightly cooked, the mushrooms seasoned with salt, pepper, a little California merlot, and the dish garnished with chopped parsley from S. & S.O. Produce

 

• the wine throughout the meal was a California (Napa) red, ROX Scott Peterson Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, from Naked Wines
• the music was Berlioz, his heavenly, dramatic 1850-1854 oratorio, ‘L’Enfance du Christ’, Philippe Herreweghe conducting the Champs-Élysées Orchestra, the Ghent Collegium Vocale, and La Chapelle Royale Paris

It was the 25th of December. We don’t celebrate Christmas as such, but, as with other major Christian holidays from each of our youths, we observe the occasion with good food, good wine, and, whenever possible, good company.

Last night we were only two. On these family days it’s often extremely difficult to get friends to join us for dinner, many or most having been committed to dinners elsewhere since birth.

These meals are still very special for us, regardless of the size of the company, and last night’s definitely was.

I had hoped to secure a brace of wild duck for the occasion, but wonderful local purveyor told me he wouldn’t be able to get any this year. I ‘settled on’ 2 pigeons, which are always extraordinarily delicious birds, even when raised on a farm in California, as these were.

We also enjoyed 4 different terrific vegetables through the first 2 courses.

The starter, pictured at the top of this entry, was very. very simple, also both delicious and light; in other words, a perfect appetizer.

• one small Savoy cabbage (it may have been a San Michelle, formerly known as a Verza di Verona) from Norwich Meadows Farm, halved, the core removed, sliced very thinly, added to a little olive oil inside a large, heavy, tin-lined copper pot already above a medium high flame, joining one halved Rocambole garlic clove from Keith’s Farm that had already been heated, over a lower flame, until fragrant, the cabbage sautéed, stirring, along with 4 flattened juniper berries, until the leaves were tender and had begun to brown and become (ideally) slightly crisp at the edges, seasoned with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and a few drops of balsamic vinegar added and stirred over the heat for a moment, arranged on the plates with a drizzle of olive oil  [I’ve used the basic recipe a number of times as an appetizer when we have guests, a favorite with cook and guests for its convenience and its deliciousness, respectively; it’s from ‘Healthy Italian Cooking‘, by Emanuella Stucchi, a small ‘stealth’ vegetarian tome I had been using it for years before I realized there was no meat or fish in any of the recipes]
• the wine was an Oregon (Illinois Valley) white, Foris Wine Shop Dry Gewürztraminer 2016

The squab, the centerpiece of the main course, were prepared using Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers’ recipe, ‘Spiced Pigeon’ (page 156), from their book, ‘Italian Easy’; Recipes from the London River Cafe‘, which is itself a treasure.

• two one-pound California farmed pigeons from D’Artagnan, via O. Ottomanelli & Sons Prime Meat Market on Bleecker Street, seasoned inside with a mixture of sea salt; freshly-ground black pepper; 2 teaspoons of coriander seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle; and one dried Sicilian pepperoncino from Buon Italia, the legs and wings then trussed, tied to the bodies, browned on all sides inside a heavy oval enameled cast iron pan (little larger than the 2 birds), then 2 halved rocambole garlic cloves from Keith’s Farm, half of one cinnamon stick, 7 ounces of chopped Mutti San Marzano PDO tomatoes, 3/4 of a cup of red wine (Karen Birmingham Merlot Clarksburg 2015) added to the pan., 1/4 of a nutmeg ground in/over, seasoned with sea salt and more ground pepper, brought to a boil, placed inside a 400º oven and roasted uncovered until the legs turn in their sockets (about 40-45 minutes)
• very fresh, crispy wild cress from Lani’s Farm, arranged as a garnish at the [former] heads of the birds
• a quince and dried cherry chutney, made following this theKitchn.com recipe, using a shallot from Keith’s Farm, a garlic clove from Stokes Farm, quince from Red Jacket Orchards, dried sweet cherries from Whole Foods, fresh ginger from Lani’s Farm, and apple cider vinegar from Race Farm
• just under one pound of small sweet potatoes from Keith’s Farm, unpeeled, but washed thoroughly, cut into 3/4 to 1-inch sections, tossed inside a bowl with a little olive oil, sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, 3 whole, unpeeled Rocambole garlic cloves from Keith’s Farm, a crushed piece of dried dark habanada pepper, and some whole fresh sage leaves from Keith’s Farm, arranged on a large, now very-well-seasoned Pampered Chef unglazed ceramic oven pan, roasted inside a 400º oven for about 30 minutes [this time I had to juggle the oven timing of the sweet potatoes and the birds, because the former needed a significantly higher oven temperature than the latter]
• one bunch of beautiful collard greens from Tamarack Hollow Farm, stripped of most of their stems, torn into small sections, washed several times and drained, transferred to a smaller bowl very quickly, in order to retain as much of the water clinging to them as possible, braised inside a heavy tin-lined copper pot in which one large quartered clove of Rocambole garlic from Keith’s Farm had first been allowed to sweat in some olive oil, adding a little of the reserved water near the end to keep the greens moist, finished with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper,  a bit of the same crushed Sicilian pepperoncino, and a drizzle of olive oil
• the wine, a gift from an artist acquaintance, Ryan Weston Shook, who had designed its label (and that of other wines from the same winemaker), was an exceptional California (Sonoma) red, 1849 Wine Company Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2013, and I can say the same thing I did about the previous bottle from this vintner, “..more than just a pretty label: It was a really wonderful wine and it a perfect pairing with the entrée.”

There was a very small cheese course; we skipped the sweet I had hoped to serve, a special German holiday ‘bread’ (‘Hutzelbrot‘), but we’ll enjoy it later this week.

• a small slice of Consider Bardwell ‘Rupert’ goat cheese
• a slice of a crescent-shaped whole wheat seeded bread from Runner & Stone Bakery

The dessert that we did have was a wonderful white port we had brought back from (where else?) Portugal, at the very knowledgable Airport shop, a Dalva 20 Years Old Dry White Port.  I took one sip, and I knew I needed to accompany it with walnuts. Fortunately we had some in the house.

Lovely.

 

• the music throughout the meal was from this Spotify playlist, ‘Boulezian Christmas’, assembled by Mark Berry (@Boulezian on Twitter)

 

It was the eve of Christmas, La Vigilia, in southern Italy, and in Italian-American families, Festa dei sette pesci, but as we’re neither Italian nor Catholic, I thought we could get away with just one fish last night.

But it was a very special fish, and there was pasta too!

• one large cloves of Rocambole garlic from Keith’s Farm, sliced thinly, heated inside a deep enameled cast iron pan over medium-high flame, along with one dried whole hot pepper, dried Sicilian pepperoncino from Buon Italia, and a bit of crushed, dark, home-dried heatless Habanada pepper (gathered fresh from Norwich Meadows Farm last year), until the garlic was almost starting to color, pieces of half of a skinned and boned smoked local eel from P.E. & D.D. Seafood added and stirred until warmed through, half of the amount of a savory pangrattato*, prepared earlier, mixed in and stirred to combine, the cooked and drained pasta (8 ounces of Setaro spaghetti from Buon Italia), added to the pan, tossed with the eel and pangrattato and stirred over low heat for a couple of minutes, adding more than a cup of the reserved pasta water while doing so to keep the mix moist, the dish served in low bowls, where it was sprinkled with more pangrattato and finished with slices of several tiny scallions from Willow Wisp Farm

*The pangrattato was prepared by adding about a third of a cup of homemade breadcrumbs to about a fourth of a cup of olive oil in which more thinly-sliced Rocambole garlic cloves and 2 rinsed salted anchovies from Buon Italia had been heated for a short while, and, after being stirred for 4 or 5 minutes, the mixture was drained onto paper toweling, bringing it to room temperature, then placed inside a small bowl

• the wine was an Italian (Toscana) white, Villa Antinori Bianco 2016
• the music was a recording of a beautiful performance of Handel’s 1738-1739 oratorial, ‘Saul’, with Rosemary Joshua, Emma Bell, Lawrence Zazzo, and Jeremy Ovenden, among others, René Jacobs directing Concerto Cologne Berlin RIAS Chamber Chorus [while it was Christmas Eve, we thought we’d already listened to a lot of New Testament music this week, so we’e go for the old one for a change]

I’ve made this dish before, but I don’t think all of its elements had ever come together as well as they did this time.

There was a fairly short process, beginning with the fish and the olives..

..and continuing with the tomatoes.

• * the fish dish began with two 8-ounce fillets of tautog, or blackfish, from Pura Vida Fisheries [prepared following a recipe by Melissa Clark published in the New York Times 5 years ago, substituting a mix of an excellent cayenne pepper and a pikante paprika for the Aleppo pepper indicated], seasoned with salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and a few pinches of a mix of a spicy Spanish paprika and a Nigerian cayenne pepper, placed in a large heavy oval copper skillet over a medium-low flame, a quarter cup of pitted Gaeta olives from Buon Italia scattered around the fish, cooked for about 4 minutes, flipped and cooked for another 4 minutes, then, near the end of that time, roughly 10 ounces of quartered Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods Market were tossed into the pan, moved around a bit and allowed to break down, the fish and the olives transferred to 2 plates when done, the tomatoes spooned around the fillets, everything sprinkled with chopped winter savory from Stokes Farm and topped with a drizzle of good olive oil, and garnished with wasabi micro greens from Two Guys from Woodbridge
• four German butterball potatoes from Max Creek Hatchery, boiled with a generous amount of salt until barely cooked through, drained, halved, dried while still inside the large still-warm vintage Corning Pyrex Flameware blue-glass pot in which they had cooked, tossed with a little olive oil, chopped pieces of the green stem of one Japanese scallion from Norwich Meadows Farm, sprinkled with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and a generous amount of lovage from Keith’s Farm
• the wine was a California (Sonoma) white, Scott Peterson Rumpus California Sauvignon Blanc 2016, from Naked Wines
• the music was Handel’s 1736 opera, ‘Atalanta’, Nicholas McGegan conducting the Philharmonia Baroque Orchestra, with a cast which included Philip Cutlip, the brilliant Michael Slattery, Dominique Labelle, Cecile van de Sant, Susanne Rydén, and Corey Mckern

When I opened the sealed plastic bag that held the John Dory fillets, I was immediately overwhelmed by the same intoxicating scent of the briny sea that accompanies the very freshest oysters; the fish was that fresh.

A little bit of background:

Because of what we had already scheduled for early in the evening, I wasn’t going to have much time to prepare a meal Friday night, but I still wanted the two of us to enjoy a good meal. So when I arrived at the Pura Vida stand in the Greenmarket in Union Square I was certain that the silvery-skinned John Dory fillets I saw would be all I needed, along with maybe some kind of fresh greens. Paul, standing on the other side of the fish cases, obviously didn’t agree, as he wouldn’t accept my negative reply to his usual query, “anything else?” He suggested I needed some oysters as an appetizer, but I explained we wouldn’t have time for a first course, and, besides, I’d have to schedule a pause in the middle of the meal to allow time for me to open and plate the silver-bedded bivalves. He had a solution: “Your partner knows how to open them, right?”

Now I couldn’t fault his argument, so I brought the oysters home, comforted a little by the fact that there were only 4 left on the ice inside the tub: How long could it take to open and serve 4 oysters? Once I arrived home I decided it would be easier for me to shuck the oysters myself, since the kitchen work area really can’t easily accommodate 2 people, and I had also quickly realized I could prepare in advance everything needed to cook the John Dory, so there really wouldn’t be a significant pause after all.

It didn’t take long at all, and the meal was just about perfect.

Early in the evening, even before I had started working on it, I was unable to resist tweeting, “tonight’s dinner will star 4 silvery oysters and 4 silvery John Dory fillets”, and now I can say it actually happened, and that both the Ostreidae and the Zeus faber were definitely stars.

And so was the sweet winter lacinato, or cavolo nero.

• * four iced Great South Bay oysters from Pure Vida Seafood
• * a bit of wild cress from Lani’s Farm, dressed with a very good Sicilian olive oil, from from Agricento, Azienda Agricola Mandranova (exclusively Nocellara olives), a drizzle of juice from an organic Whole Foods Market lemon, Maldon sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper
• slices of a classic baguette from Bread Alone

[slight pause here]

• * four John Dory fillets caught off eastern Long Island, from Pura Vida Seafood, marinated inside the refrigerator for about 30 minutes in a mix of half a clove of crushed Rocambole garlic from Keith’s Farm. one teaspoon or more of chopped thyme from Stokes Farm, the juice and zest from roughly a quarter of a Whole Foods Market organic lemon, half a teaspoon of walnut oil, sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper, removed from the refrigerator and allowed to come to room temperature, placed, skin-side down first, inside a large heavy, tin-lined copper skillet that had been heated over medium-high heat with enough olive oil to coat the surface, the heat then reduced slightly and the fillets cooked for just 2 minutes on each side, removed and arranged on warm plates, sprinkled with a bit of micro wasabi from Two Guys from Woodbridge
• two Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods Market, halved, the cut sides placed on a plate sprinkled  with a little sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then heated on both sides in a little olive oil inside a 19th-century enameled cast iron porringer, removed and arranged next to the John Dory, sprinkled with a little chopped thyme that had not been used in the marinade
• one bunch of lacinato kale (aka cavalo nero, black cabbage, or Tuscan cabbage) from Norwich Meadows Farm, wilted briefly in olive oil in which one clove of Rocambole garlic from Keith’s Farm had first been heated until pungent, a bit of dried peperoncino Calabresi secchi from Buon Italia added at the end, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper and drizzled with a little more oil

• the wine through the first two courses was a California (Napa) white, La Tapatia Chardonnay Carneros 2016, from Naked Wines

The dessert was definitely the simplest of the courses.

• Satsuma mandarins from Whole Foods Market

 

• the music throughout was the album, ‘Per Violoncello’, all of the music of Aribert Reimann for cello (as of the 2005 recording date), plus his ‘Drei Klavierstucke’

I’ve only prepared bay scallops once before (at least in modern, Food Blog times). They were okay, but the experience wasn’t good enough to encourage me to try it again. When I saw some in the Greenmarket yesterday I decided I’d give them another try. I was going to go for a treatment somewhat more simple than what I ended up doing, but this time they were terrific.

I swear I’ll do almost nothing to them the next time, and see how that works out.

I chose a simple recipe for a sympathetic and a favorite winter vegetable as a complement, and that worked out very well too.

 

 

• one tablespoon of oil and a half tablespoon of butter heated in a large enameled cast iron skillet over medium-high heat, one medium-size sliced clove of Keith’s Farm Rocambole garlic slipped in and cooked, stirring occasionally, until it was pale golden, after which 26 washed and thoroughly-dried Peconic bay scallops from Blue Moon Fish in the Union Square Greenmarket (on, sadly, what Stephanie and ALex Villani had announced would be their their last day – ever – in the the Union Square Greenmarket location) were added and quickly sautéed without moving, until seared (about 30 seconds), then flipped and seared on the other side (tough to do quickly and completely, no matter how handy the cook may be) for about 30 seconds more, the scallops then removed from the pan and placed on warm plates while the flame was reduced to medium and about 1 1/2 tablespoons more butter added, the butter allowed to turn a light brown color (pans with black surfaces, like the one I used this time, make this difficult to determine), the heat turned off and about a tablespoon of Whole Foods Market organic lemon juice and chopped parsley from S. & S.O. Produce added and pushed around for a few seconds before the sauce was seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper and poured over the scallops on the plates, which were garnished with a ‘dusting’ of micro wasabi from Two Guys from Woodbridge
• one small Savoy-type San Michele (formerly, Verza di Verona) cabbage from Tamarack Hollow Farm, halved, the core removed, sliced fairly thinly, sautéed, along with thin strips of one very small leek from Willow Wisp Organic Farm, in a little olive oil over medium high heat, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage leaves were tender, had begun to brown and become (ideally) slightly crisp at the edges, seasoned with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and 4 flattened juniper berries, a few drops of white balsamic vinegar added, then stirred over heat for a moment and arranged on the plates with a drizzle of olive oil
• The wine was a California (grapes from the Sacramento River Delta with a small amount of Viognier from Lodi) white, Miriam Alexandra Chenin Blanc California 2016, by Alexandra Farber, from Naked Wines
• the music was a terrific album of goodies, ‘Schubert Epilog‘, in which the contemporary composers Kurt Schwertsik, Aribert Reimann, Hans Werner Henze, Luciano Berio, and Hans Zender reimagine some of Schubert’s most iconic works, the performances all with Jonathan Nott directing the Bamberg Symphony Orchestra and the Bamberg Symphony Chorus