Looks a bit like a corne copia, or in this case, a patera copia, but it was definitely, in the language closest to the vulgate that succeeded classical Latin, una deliziosa scodella di abbondanza. It is very Italian, but it was conceived on 23rd Street. eight and a half ounces of al dente Afeltra 100% Grana …
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oregano/chili-roasted squid; dill potato; grill tomato, basil
Mostly back to the Mediterranean, after a short detour in German lands. one pound of rinsed and carefully dried squid bodies and tentacles from American Seafood Company in the Union Square Greenmarket, arranged without touching if possible, inside a large rectangular enameled cast iron pan that had been heated on top of the stove until quite …
Mangalitsa steak; celeriac paprika frites; scapes; tomato
Even without the red micro amaranth garnish, this is clearly a ‘red meat’. I was more than a little intimidated. I had been offered, and had purchased, a frozen Mangalitsa collar steak one week before, but I had no idea what to do with it. The breed of pig was very different from any known …
insalata caprese; black squid ink and crab pansotti
There’s a reason the antipasto insalata caprese [Eng. Caprese salad, or the salad of Capri] has become legendary. It’s extraordinarily delicious when the ingredients are the best. Also, mozzarella comes from the Campania region, as do, arguably, the best tomatoes in the world, and Capri has been a jewel off the coast of Campania for thousands …
bluefish ‘Greek style’; Jamaica burr cucumber, Cuban mint
This little restaurant doesn’t seem to have a theme, unless it’s described by the source for 97% of the ingredients used in the preparation of the meals it serves, that is, local farmers, fishers, and bakers. How else to explain pasta with peppers and tomato one night, sausage, kraut and boiled potatoes the next, and …
bacon, eggs, tomato, with 4-olive/moroccan spice bread
This time at Sunday breakfast the bread was something of a star. As much as I like bread of any kind, with so much else going on on these hearty midday plates (serving as both breakfast and lunch), the bread is usually in a supporting role at best. The loaf of Orwashers ‘Moroccan olive bread’ …
marinated breaded swordfish; eggplant, mint; red potato
The swordfish, I understand, is a terrific game fish, but my personal experience with its greatness has been limited to the kitchen and dining table. Although I’ve heard some reports that it may not be for everyone, I think xiphias gladius is one of the best tasting fish anywhere, and we’re very lucky that this migratory …
oregano-roast squid; purple okra; tomato, basil, balsamic
Everything about it. a large rectangular enameled cast iron pan heated on top of the stove until hot, its cooking surface brushed with olive oil, and once the oil was quite hot, one pound of rinsed and carefully dried large squid from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, which had been selected from the bucket right in …
a colorful breakfast (actually, it really was a lunch this time)
It was all good. It also wasn’t really breakfast time any more, by the time we enjoyed it, even in the terms of our own late-eating habits. from Millport Dairy Farm there was thick bacon and Americauna chicken eggs (with thinly-sliced new shallot stems from Tamarack Hollow Farm, fresh oregano buds from Norwich Meadows Farm, …
cod liver; ‘spanish’ shrimp; green tomato; cucumber, shallot
The cod liver tasted a bit like foie gras, but without the guilt, which is to say, it was delicious. four ounces of Icelandic canned cod liver (Skansen) from the Schaller & Weber store, served with little more than pinches of a few condiments (freshly-ground black pepper, Sicilian wild fennel pollen from Buon Italia, fresh …