Golden were the fish and the beets both, but the leeks, micro greens, and Brussels sprouts, also a part of this meal, might better represent the gold of the sun, barely visible in late January (fairly or not, we associate that orb with the green above ground more than the roots below). The date was January 30. I …
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steak, gorgonzola butter, micro radish; fingerlings, herbs
While there was both a primo and a secondo, it was still a very low-stress meal to prepare, probably helping to explain why it turned out so totally delicious. The first course was very simple. a small amount of leftover celeriac pasta from Tuesday, arranged in shallow bowls with a little upland cress from Two …
beet fusilli, onion, celery, chilis, bread crumbs, tiny arugula
We love the innovative pastas, often with locally-sourced-ingredients, produced by Brooklyn’s Sfoglini Pasta Shop, and this beet fusilli was no exception, but, and it’s entirely to their credit, I’ve come to the conclusion that the ‘flavored’ products especially can best be appreciated with a minimum of additions. This also makes them ideal as a quickly-prepared and impactful primo. …
sülze; gemüsesuppe [headcheese; vegetable soup]
It was a very German meal, for no particular reason. Thinking about it retroactively however, I could say there was the relationship between the date (the eve of an installation of a proto-fascist regime in Washington) and the historical memory which recalls the food culture of the nation which was the last one to pass over that line. It …
herb-roasted tilefish; tomato, oregano; roasted fingerlings
It was a beautiful day, a beautiful fish, and a beautiful meal. I love tilefish, and I jump at the chance to enjoy it almost every time I see it in the market.* Yesterday was one of those days, and it turned out perfectly. I’m getting pretty confident about preparing most fish, so when I …
duck, lemon, thyme; roasted roots, rosemary, micro radish
On the third day of Christmas, our true loves sent to us a, er, ..a single duck breast. one duck breast (12 ounces) from Hudson Valley Duck, the fatty side scored in tight cross hatching with a very sharp knife, the entire breast then sprinkled with a mixture of sea salt, freshly-ground pepper, and a little turbinado sugar (the sugar in our bowl …
lemon-roasted pork chops; mustard greens; pickled beets
This was the first fully-prepared meal I have been able (allowed) to put on the table since cutting off the tip of my index finger in a kitchen accident on the 7th, and I relished every bit of it. In preparation, I went to the Greenmarket the day before, fairly late, as I had only to pick up …
‘gilded’ flounder with oregano, scallions, lemon; collards
I was nattering with the mongers and wasn’t thinking much about the quantity of fish being drawn from the low tub nestled in the ice. I ended up with a pound of fish, a little more than I would normally buy, but the flounder was so terrific that both of us were very happy the number was a little …
almost minimal this time: bacon & eggs; a Wagner operetta
I went easy on the trimmings for this latest breakfast/lunch, at least compared to some of my more recent approaches. there were 6 eggs plus 4 slices of thick bacon from Millport Dairy Farm; toast from a loaf of French sourdough Levain from Bread Alone; arugula from Lani’s Farm, dressed with a good olive oil, maldon …
spicy tautog with sage, olives, lemon; micro beet; cardoons
Most of these things are some of my favorite things. I’m familiar with the fish, the olives, the peppers, the seasonings, the herbs, the lemon, and the micro beets, but before yesterday I had never touched a cardoon stalk. Now I can imagine Cynara cardunculus ending up joining them. I’ll be looking for this uncommon Mediterranean vegetable on my next visits …