Even without an occasion, quail always seems like an occasion. a brace of pasture-raised certified organic quail from Abra Morawiec’s Feisty Acres Farm in Jamesport, Long Island, each weighing a little more than 8 ounces, rinsed, dried inside and out, the cavities seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, with one quarter of a gently squeezed organic …
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lemon-roasted pork chop; braised chestnut; treviso, thyme
It started with two paper baskets of local foraged chestnuts, the very last remaining on the farmer’s table in the Union Square Greenmarket. I had hoped to find some kind of game, or game-ish bird which they might accompany on a cool autumn evening, but then we were away for 5 days, and since my …
seared striped bass, scape/celery sauce; roasted fingerling
When things go well in the kitchen. But not necessarily perfectly. It was a really delicious dinner, although it wasn’t quite the dinner I had intended. I thought it would end up looking more bright green than brown-green. I think I’ve pretty much gotten the crispy fish skin technique down, but now I have to …
bresaola, arugula; mushroom ravioli, scapes, olives, pinoli
There really isn’t much reason to describe this meal in a Food Blog post, since I’ve assembled similar versions of each of these 2 courses so often in the past, but there are always differences, some subtle and some not, and they don’t always end up tasting as good as they did this time. The …
local shrimp with chipotle, saffron, cumin, fennel; okra, chili
Jumbo shrimp: It’s an archetypal oxymoron, but no less delicious for being a classic. There were also a lot of them this time, a bounty which would have been unlikely on our table had Jean Claude Frajmund not been offering them at a very good price on Saturday (he was in a hurry to close his …
lemon mangalitsa pork, laetiporus; garlic-roasted sweets
I thought this meal was pretty special all the way around. There were certainly at least a couple exotic elements, but everything was quite local. I had been really looking forward to preparing these very special chops. They turned out to be even more delicious than I had expected, which is saying a lot, after …
blue eggs, green tomato, perfect orange yolks, and more
Actually, it was the egg shells that were blue. I don’t think I should be posting every meal on this blog, and in fact I don’t always do. I especially don’t think I should be writing about every single Sunday breakfast, since they’re almost always assembled around many of the same things, eggs, usually …
lobster on cucumber; cod baked with potato and tomato
(there weren’t enough hats to go around) I spotted the lobster-red blur under the ice at her seafood stall, but Jan told me the two small cooked claws were all they had left that day of their catch of homanus americanus. That’s all I needed to hear: I could take home the lobster and a smaller than …
herb-roasted quail, balsamic sauce; roasted squash; rabe
This menu seemed a little premature for September, game and roasted squash being pretty much an autumn meal, but fortunately the weather cooperated (I wouldn’t want to cook or serve this dinner in warm weather), and the the sun actually haded cross the celestial equator and headed south exactly 24 hours earlier. I want to add that despite …
breakfast ‘without’
It was breakfast without bacon and without tomatoes. Also new this time: No broken yolks, and somehow the whites came off with something of a geometric perfection as well. the list of what there was: blue eggs from Millport Dairy Farm free-range Americauna chickens; husk cherries from Oak Grove Plantation that were there because I …