Home alone. I don’t always cook a proper meal for myself on the rare occasions that happens, and unfortunately I hadn’t arranged to share my meal with a friend. But at least by Monday morning I had thought ahead enough to purchase some very fresh fish for 2 successive meals, one solo (the Union Square Greenmarket isn’t open on Tuesdays).

That night, before I actually began thinking about what I would do with my one flounder fillet, I had assumed that whatever I did it would be very minimal, and end with an unusual herb or micro green. Then I noticed that a few of the heirloom tomatoes on the breakfast room windowsill had become as ripe as they could possibly get, so I turned to an only-slightly-more-complex recipe I had used a number of times in the past, and I jumped off from there, with a few variations.

 

I have usually used good cherry tomatoes for the ‘butter’, but the version I composed last night included very ripe heirlooms, almost entirely, and I think it was the best one yet.

Note: After the photo at the very top was taken, I drizzled some of the tomato liquid onto the exposed fillet, and it was ambrosial!

 

The spigarello broccoli was absolutely delicious, and unlike any green I had ever tasted. I generally prefer not to parboil any leafy vegetable, and did so reluctantly in this case, since I was a little concerned about the sturdiness of the stems, even though I had cut off most of them. Unfortunately I drained the spigarello after only about 3 minutes, which wasn’t quite enough to soften them; the next time I will test them while they’re boiling (or be sure to remove all of the stem, even if I have to admit the stems look pretty cool on the plate).

The leaves, by the way, are probably sturdy enough to survive a longer blanching without losing their own freshness.  I wonder how that excellent design came about? I didn’t squeeze the greens after they had been drained and before they were sautéed, mostly because I didn’t have a ton, and didn’t want them to disappear before I got them to the plate.

• one 7-ounce Long Island-waters flounder fillet from P.E.&D.D. Seafood, lightly seasoned, cooked for a few minutes in olive oil and butter in a heavy oval copper pan over high heat, turning once, then placed on a plate, a couple of spoonfuls of ‘tomato butter’ [see below] placed on top
• tomato butter, made by cooking, until slightly soft and fragrant, a couple sliced fresh red scallions from Hawthorne Valley Farm in a generous amount of butter, then letting the flavored butter cool slightly before being poured over three different small, fresh, very ripe heirloom tomatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm, chopped, and 4 halved sun gold cherry tomatoes from Down Home Acres, then combined with a tablespoon of tarragon, chopped, from Stokes Farm, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops of good red wine vinegar
• spigarello (Cavolo Broccolo a Getti di Napoli, or Minestra Nera) from Norwich Meadow Farm, stems removed, blanched for about 2 minutes, drained, sautéed (mostly just heated) in olive oil in which one chopped garlic and a small amount of a chopped cherry bomb/red bomb pepper from Norwich Meadows Farm had first been softened (a sprinkle of a little lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil might have been in order after they were arranged on the plate, but I did neither this time
• the wine was a California (grapes from the Sacramento River Delta with a small amount of Viognier from Lodi) white, Miriam Alexander Chenin Blanc 2014
• the music was an album of works by Mateusz Ryczek, ‘Planetony’

It was a simple assignment: put together an uncomplicated meal with the first red peppers from the Greenmarket and some of the very fresh 16 eggs I had in the refrigerator at that moment.

To make it more interesting, something more than that to which a frittata might otherwise aspire, I also had on hand some other fine ingredients, familiar and exotic, fresh and dry.

 

• a frittata which began with sautéing in olive oil in a 12″ enameled cast iron frying pan half a dozen or so sliced sweet red bell peppers from 9J Organic (in the Union Square Greenmarket), until they had begun to carmelize, followed by some chopped organic garlic and a little bit of cherry bomb (or red bomb) peppers from Norwich Meadows Farm, slivered, sautéed until pungent or softened, and finally some sliced red scallions from Paffenroth Gardens, again, stirred until softened, after which 8 medium eggs from Millport Dairy which had been whipped with a tablespoon or so of milk, salt and pepper, and a handful of mixed herbs (basil, oregano, thyme, tarragon, and savory, all from Greenmarket farmers) were poured into the pan, the surface dusted with a pinch or so of homemade French Basque piment d’Espellate (which we had purchased in a small town north of Baie-Comeau, Quebec last year from the producer’s daughter), cooked over a low-to-moderate flame until the edges were fixed, then placed in a pre-heated broiler for a minute or so, or until the entire surface was set, finished with a sprinkling of micro bronze fennel from Two Guys from Woodbridge, removed, allowed to cool for a bit, quartered, and one piece arranged on each of 2 plates, perched on the edge some torn radicchio from Tamarack Hollow Farm,   which was dressed lightly withgood Campania olive oil, D.O.P. Penisola Sorrentina “Syrenum”, maldon salt, and freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper

 

A few simple sweet local dark cherries from Samascott Orchards, in Kinderhook, which are now probably at the very end of their season, were a perfect dessert.

 

 

• the wine was a California (Lodi) rosé, Karen Birmingham Rosé Lodi 2015
• the music was the 1990 opera of Einojuhani Rautavaara, ‘The House of the Sun’, Mikko Franck conducting the Oulu Symphony Orchestra

The sea robin was delicious, but I think I overdid the garnish this time. It really didn’t need the bed of arugula, especially since I was sprinkling the fish itself with some torn fresh basil.

I was trying to hard to use the arugula I had in the refrigerator door while it was still sprightly, but also I was distracted by both an unusually smokey kitchen (the oil-tossed squash grilling over a high flame), and my multitasking 2 other very different programs (preparing the fish and vegetables at the same time I was rendering a supply of fresh veal fat in a large pot), all inside a warm kitchen.

[the veal fat, from Consider Bardwell Farm in the Union Square Greenmarket, originated with a calf of their cow milk partner, Lisa Kaiman’s Jersey Girls Dairy (her cow’s are Jerseys, and Lisa is from New Jersey, hence..) in Chester Vermont]

But the air cleared, the breakfast room eventually cooled down, and we enjoyed the meal – and great conversation – including some excellent cheese, great bread, and one of our favorite table wines.

 

• nine quite small sea robin fillets, or ‘tails’, from Pura Vida Fisheries, rinsed, pat dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, then placed in an oval heavy copper pan of sizzling olive oil, sautéed over medium-high heat for barely 2 minutes on each side, transferred to 2 plates where they were perched on some rocket/arugula (‘wild arugula’) from Migliorelli Farm, a little organic lemon squeezed on top, and small spoonfuls of a olive tapenade sauce made minutes earlier (Gaeta olives, brined wild capers, a salted anchovy, and some chopped fresh thyme) spread over or between the fillets, which were garnished with torn fresh basil leaves from Sycamore Farms
• four small patty pan squash from Alewife Farm, sliced horizontally, tossed with olive oil, lemon juice, chopped fresh garlic from Alewife Farm, part of a hot red Portugal pepper from Keith’s Farm, salt, and pepper, then pan grilled for about 6 minutes, sprinkled with lovage from Keith’s Farm

There was a small cheese course, which included a few sweet cherries from Samascott Orchards.

• three cheeses from Consider Bardwell Farm: ‘Dorset’, a rich, buttery washed-rind cow milk cheese, and their 2 new-ish blues, ‘Barden Blue’, a cow cheese, and a goat blue which I believe has not yet been named [might I humbly suggest ‘Wellen’, as in Bardwell’s ‘Barden’-‘Wellen’?]
• a terrific Hudson Bakery pumpernickel boule from Citarella

 

• the wine was an Italian (Tuscany) white, Villa Antinori Toscana 2014
• the music was a 1717 opera by Antonio Vivaldi, ‘L’incoronazione di Dario’, in a performance by Ottavio Dantone and the Accademia Bizantina

It’s one of my favorite pasta shapes: Setaro calls them ‘nodi marini’ (‘sailors’ knots’ in English). Last night I served them with a sauce which would be totally unlikely in Italy, but whose flavor I don’t think would seem weird to even the most parochial Italian.

 

At least in the dish’s conception, both my conception and that of its author, the ingredients began with maize [American: corn], and maize/corn remained the star throughout. I’m crazy about corn in any form, and I’ve always regretted how rarely it’s found in the Italian kitchen which became my go-to place many years ago. It’s why I found Melissa Clark‘s recipe, ‘Creamy Corn Pasta With Basil’, so exciting.

The surprise was that the finished dish tasted so darn Italian. Also, both fruitier and more earthy than I had expected. It was absolutely delicious.

The remaining fresh, local ingredients, deserve a lot of the credit for all of that.

 

The recipe appears here. It probably looks more complicated than it is; I had no problems with it on my first try. I will say however that I was surprised my 3 normal size ears of corn produced only about a third of a cup of kernels, not the 2 cups she suggests 2 large ears would produce. In the end I don’t really think it matters.

 

• The ingredients I used for the pasta, some of which are pictured above, were: 9 ounces from a package of Setaro Nodi Marini from Buon Italia; 6 red scallions from Hawthorne Valley Farm, sliced; 3 ears of medium-size corn from Locust Grove Fruit Farm, shucked, their kernels removed; Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse from Buon Italia, grated; basil from Sycamore Farms, torn; much of one hot red Portugal pepper from Keith’s Farm, finely-chopped and softened in olive oil over a low flame; and the juice of a small Limoneira lemon from Trader Joe’s
• the wine was an Italian (Sicily) rosé, the sturdy Calabretta Terre Siciliane IGT Rosato 2014, from Astor Wines & Spirits
• the music was the album, ‘A, Scarlatti: Il Giardino Di Rose, Sinfonie, Etc‘, which includes “..sinfonias from six of Alessandro Scarlatti’s oratorios interspersed with six short harpsichord concertos”, Ottavio Dantone directing the Accademia Bizantina

Mackerel are not endangered, not expensive, very good for you, and very delicious.

After so many previous outings, how much more can I say about this great mackerel preparation? It’s Michael White’s very simple Sicilian-inspired recipe.  I can usually vary the tomatoes, depending on what may be available, and sometimes at the very end I sprinkle something on the top (last night, for the first time, a micro bronze fennel), but even more important is the freshness of the fish and my luck in getting the correct flame and timing the cooking right.

Tomatoes and eggplant too: not endangered, not expensive, very good for you, and very delicious.

I love grilling somewhat larger eggplant, but I always smile when I spot ‘fairy tale’ eggplant (a name I’ve usually shortened to ‘fairy eggplant’) in the Greenmarket. They have the disadvantage of not lending themselves to being scored before grilling, but they have the advantage of not lending themselves to being scored before grilling (scoring takes a little more time, but only a little more time). Both larger and smaller eggplant can be combined with another vegetable, and tomato is a natural, but I kept it simple this time.

 

 

• four 3 to 4-ounce Spanish mackerel fillets from Blue Moon Fish, washed, dried, brushed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, pan grilled over high heat for 6 or 7 minutes, turning once (the skin side down first), removed and completed with a salsa consisting of 1/2-inch diced heirloom tomatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm tossed with olive oil, wild brined capers which had been rinsed and drained, juice from small Limoneira lemon from Trader Joe’s, salt, and pepper, and sprinkled with ‘micro bronze fennel’ from Two Guys from Woodbridge
• several handfuls of fairy tale eggplant from Stokes Farm, sliced in half, tossed with oil, chopped young (juicy) garlic from Alewife Farm, salt, pepper, fresh budding oregano from Stokes Farm, grilled on a large ribbed cast-iron pan and garnished with more of the oregano
• the wine was an Italian (Sicilian) white, Catarratto Bosco Falconieria 2013, produced by Bosco Falconeria, from Astor Wines
• the music was Antonio Vivaldi’s opera, ‘Tito Manlio’, performed by  the Accademia Bizantina, directed by Ottavio Dantone

Spicy.

I wanted a sausage to accompany the beans I had cooked the night before, and the only sausage I had on hand was a package of frozen chorizo. I should probably have used it as part of a composed dish, since these links were far more spicy (really hot!) than I expected of a brand marketed as broadly as Niman Ranch is. In addition, the dried chilis I tossed into the salsa which accompanied it, while ostensibly the same as a supply I had just exhausted, were much hotter.

Fortunately, the beans at least had no spiciness (only a real herbiness). I also put some rich moist black bread on the table, and both were helpful in refreshing taste buds somewhat dazed by the other 2 elements of the dinner, enabling us to enjoy the good wine.

[Note: After the picture above was taken, the juices from each of the 3 elements began to run toward the center. It was more than picturesque, it was a perfect objective for the bread, which had now become even more useful.]

 

 

• Four links of Niman Ranch chorizo sausage, pan grilled for a few minutes over a medium flame until heated through
• a tomatillo and tomato salsa composed of 3 chopped tomatillos from Alewife Farm and 2 chopped heirloom tomatoes (one red, one yellow) from Norwich Meadows Farm, sliced red scallions (including some of the green stems) from Paffenroth Gardens, some dried Itria-Sirissi chili (peperoncino di Sardegna intero), chopped garlic from Alewife Farm, sea salt, a pinch of vanilla bean-infused turbinado sugar, some juice of a small Limoniera lemon from Trader Joe’s, and chopped parsley from Stokes Farm
• shelled Black Turtle beans from Norwich Meadows Farm (somewhere between fresh and dried, probably since they had been in the crisper for a while), washed, cleaned, added to a pot in which sliced red scallions from Paffenroth Gardens and sliced garlic from Alewife Farm had been sautéed in olive oil, water then added to cover, the mix slowly cooked for 3 or 4 hours the night before, water added as needed, until the beans were done, and some pungent dried Italian oregano from Buon Italia introduced during the cooking process, after which they were refrigerated, reheated the following evening, gradually adding some good vegetable broth, made from a concentrate manufactured by Better Than Bullion, to thin the condensed sauce, some chopped oregano buds from Stokes Farm stirred in while it was heating, and more, not chopped, used to garnish the beans
• the bread was an absolutely wonderful Hudson Bread pumpernickel boule from Citarella
• the wine was a California (Sonoma) red, The Cooper’s Art Timothy Olson Syrah 2015 [the link is to an earlier vintage]
• the music was Jean-Baptiste Lully’s ‘Armide’, Philippe Herreweghe directing La Chapelle Royale Paris, and the Collegium Vocale

 

Very simple.

Once the scallops, 2 vegetables, and 2 herbs had been washed and dried, the tomatoes and oregano chopped, and the basil torn, this meal came together in about 10 minutes, and pumping a minimum of heat into the kitchen.

 

• fourteen medium scallops from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, washed, drained and very thoroughly dried on paper towels (twice), generously seasoned with salt and pepper, pan grilled for about 90 seconds on each side, finished with a squeeze of a small sweet lemon from Trader Joe’s, a scattering of budding oregano from Stokes Farm, most of it chopped, and a drizzle of good olive oil poured on top

• small okra from Lani’s Farm, sautéed over a high flame in a large cast iron pan with a little olive oil and some crushed dried Itria-Sirissi chili (peperoncino di Sardegna intero), stirring, seasoned with sea salt
• one chopped heirloom tomato from Eckerton Hill Farm and 2 quartered Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods, dressed with a Campania olive oil, Maldon salt, Tellicherry pepper, a little balsamic vinegar, and tossed with some torn basil leaves from Sycamore Farms
• the wine was a New York (North Fork) rosé, Bridge Lane Rosé 2015
• the music was Johann Adolf Hasse’s 1725 opera, ‘Marc’ Antonio e Cleopatra’, in a performance by le Musiche Nove, Claudio Osele conducting

Gamey.  The duck was definitely more gamey this time than we remember it ever being, but for us that’s a good thing.  The next day, I described it to one of the people I see regularly behind the Hudson Valley Duck Farm counter in the Greenmarket. He told me that the breed of duck they raise hasn’t changed [in many years] and then asked me how large the breast had been, suggesting that it might have been because of the age of the duck, but we both agreed that one pound was not out of the norm.

Apparently it was just a gamey duck, a very good gamey duck.

 

• a one-pound boneless duck breast from Hudson Valley Duck Farm, the fatty side scored in cross hatching with a very sharp knife, the entire breast then sprinkled with a mixture of sea salt, freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, and a little bit of turbinado sugar (which, in our kitchen, means infused over time with a vanilla bean), the duck left standing for 45 minutes or so before it was pan-fried, fatty side down first, in a tiny bit of oil over medium heat, draining the oil part of the way through (to be strained and used in cooking later, if desired), removed when medium rare and cut into the 2 portions at that time to be certain of its doneness, left to sit for several minutes before finishing it with a drizzle of organic lemon, a sprinkling of micro beet greens from Two Guys from Woodbridge, and a bit of Campania olive oil (the tenderloin, removed earlier from the breast and also marinated, is always fried very briefly near the end of the time the breast itself is cooking)

 

• about a quarter to a third of a pound of green snow peas from Norwich Meadows Farm, sautéed in olive oil with a little sea salt for a minute or so, then a couple of spring shallots from Lani’s Farm (including some of the green stem), sliced on the diagonal, added, along with a pinch of sugar, and tossed with the peas, which were sautéed for another 2 minutes or so, the heat turned off, and the zest of half of a small organic lemon from Trader Joe’s, some chopped spearmint from Lani’s Farm, a bit of freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, and a little lemon juice stirred in
• the wine was a California (Sonoma) red, Jacqueline Bahue Cabernet Franc Clarksburg 2014
• the music was Johann Adolf Hasse’s ‘Cleofide’, William Christie directing the Cappella Coloniensis 

And no toast!

I think I went a little overboard with the condiments this time. It was supposed to be just bacon and eggs, but I think I was inspired by a new (well, actually, antique) master salt I had just brought home and I went looking for a second kind of salt to serve with our favorite finishing salt, Maldon. Then I found more things, both dry and fresh, to put on the table in little dishes, and a meal that might otherwise have been pretty standard breakfast/lunch fare had become almost exotic.

The image below is of the eggs (which were smaller than usual) looked just before they had finished frying in my heavy iron pan. It had been a little too hot when I cracked the eggs into it, so the thinner layer of whites almost immediately bubbled up as they set, giving them a slightly weird appearance. I did however get every one of them onto the plates with yokes intact, something I’ve not always been able to manage.

 

• the ingredients were 6 eggs from Millport Dairy Farm, half of a pound of thick bacon, also from Millport, a Bien Cuit baguette from Foragers Market, some Maldon Salt and some ‘Sel Magique‘, Tellicherry pepper and ‘India Special Extra Bold’ Tellicherry peppercorns, a wonderful middle-eastern aromatic seasoning blend called L’eKama, and 6 differetn chopped herbs: parsley from Stokes Farm; garlic chives from Lani’s Farm; fennel fronds from Tamarack Hollow Farm, and tarragon, oregano buds, and flowering thyme from Stokes Farm
• the music was the album, ‘Alfonso X El Sabio: Cantigas De Santa Maria’, with Jordi Savall, Hespèrion XX, and La Capella Reial de Catalunya

Green.

These shishito were particularly gentle, none of them were really fiery (I think I was disappointed), but I had sliced some bread just in case it’d be needed.

The pasta was also without drama, but also delicious.

For reasons I don’t recall now, I cooked an entire package of croxetti the other night, even though I did not need more than half of it for the meal I was preparing. I put the remainder in the refrigerator, after tossing it with olive oil to prevent it from sticking together.

Maybe I was experimenting.

On Saturday night it reappeared, in a very different guise.

 

• Shishito peppers from Lani’s Farm, washed, drained, dried, then sautéed over medium high heat in a cast iron pan for a few minutes, stirring, served on plates and accompanied by a selection of four salts: classic Maldon; smoked alderwood, from The Filling Station, ‘Sel Magique‘, and my own homemade lemon-caper salt
• slices of ‘Compagne’ (a traditional sourdough) from Bien Cuit Bakery, via Foragers Market
• the wine was an Italian (Umbria) rosé, Falesco Vitiano Rosato Umbria 2015

 

• Genovese Alta Valle Scrivia Croxetti, from Eataly, previously-cooked (a ‘leftover’, stored in the refrigerator), tossed in a large enameled cast iron pot in which a handful of garlic scapes from from Willow Wisp Farm had been sautéed until tender, together with 3 sliced green tomatoes from Lani’s Farm which had been sautéed in a separate pan until beginning to carmelize on the edges, and some sea salt and dried Itria-Sirissi chili, some reserved pasta water then added, the pot heated and stirred until the liquid had emulsified, the mix finished with the addition of chopped spearmint from Lani’s Farm and torn basil from Sycamore Farms, both also used as a garnish once the pasta had been put into bowls
• the wine was a French (Rhône) rosé, Domaine de La Verrière Ventoux Rosé 2015 [the producer’s own site was down at the time I posted this]

 

• the music was the album, L’orchestre De Louis XIII (hasn’t one always wanted to know more about the father of The Sun King?), Le Concert des Nations directed by Jordi Savall