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  • seared duck, lemon; roasted tomato; chili-roasted squash

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    There were no clams on the half shell last night. I had scrubbed them an hour or so earlier, and returned them to the refrigerator, but when I was ready to shuck them they were apparently still traumatized, and – surprise! – they’d totally ‘clammed up’. Maybe I was actually the one who was stressed…

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  • sole, lemon butter cress; potatoes, shishito pepper; lettuce

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    Every once in a while I have to be reminded of just how good a piece of sole can be, or any other mild flat fish for that matter. On Friday it was Pura Vida Seafood Paul Mendelsohn’s turn: I often ask a fish seller what I should buy that day, mostly because I’ve almost…

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  • pasta, alliums, habanada, mushrooms, olives, parmesan

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    The pasta incorporated water buffalo milk, and the wine that accompanied it was from the part of Italy associated most closely with bufala, the Maremma region of Tuscany. Okay, maybe that’s not really relevant or important, but we like to think about these things, and both pasta and wine were delcious. The recipe I used was…

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  • sea bass, oyster mushrooms; cress; multigrain baguette

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    I have no idea how it came together so perfectly tonight, but this was one of the best sea bass entrées I’ve ever brought to the table. I’ve just realized, as I write this, how few ingredients went into this entrée. The bass included only olive oil and butter, the mushrooms the remaining fish juices,…

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  • hemp pasta, celery, shallot, scallion, habanada, olive, pinoli

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    I love this pasta. It’s a very serious color, whether behind the cellophane window of the box as a very sophisticated dark grey, on the counter, where it lightens somewhat, or in the pasta bowl, where it looks more olive. But that’s only the start. The flavor is seductive, subtle yet pretty intense; if I…

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  • crab cakes on a tomato salsa; baby red cress; grilled leeks

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    I wasn’t able to get to the Union Square Greenmarket yesterday, so I defrosted a package of the fishmonger’s excellent crab cakes I keep for just such occasions, and I happened to have one fresh green[mosty] vegetable on hand as well. two crab cakes from P.E. & D.D. Seafood (crab, egg, flour, red & green peppers, garlic,…

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  • steak, lemon, lovage; fingerlings, garlic, habanada; collards

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    Meat and potatoes. And greens. two incredibly delicious sirloin cap steaks (otherwise called ‘culotte’ here, ‘coulotte’ in France, ‘picanha’ in Brazil, or “the part where the cow was poked by ranchers“), from Sun Fed Beef/Maple Avenue Farms in their stall at the Union Square Greenmarket, brought to room temperature, seasoned on all sides with sea salt and freshly-ground black…

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  • eggs, bacon, tomato, celery, scallion: lunch, with a passion

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    For something of a change, today our first meal, consumed as usual after most people have already finished their lunch, or brunch, actually did look more like a lunch, or at least a brunch, than the Sunday breakfast it was. It was consumed with some passion, along with the Bach’s St Matthew that accompanied it.…

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  • grilled scallops; micro chard; mustard; buckwheat baguette

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    Last night we had plans to see what turned out to be a brilliant production of Athol Fugard’s brilliant 1969 ‘Boesman and Lena’ at Signature Theatre. We knew we’d be home fairly late, late at least for making a dinner, so while at the Greenmarket that afternoon while picking a seafood and a vegetable, I…

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  • bresaola; smoked pork chops; roasted red turnips; sprouts

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    There was a lot of red, and off-red, but, in our defense, it was Valentine’s Day. The color began, even before any of the food had arrived, when I put this Transvaal native Gerbera daisy and its red-painted ancient iron cachepot on the table (like almost everything else connected to the meal, the plant had…

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