With Tuesday’s dinner I was able to ratchet down the old German kitchen thing that had defined the meal the night before. Pork, and in fact it was again smoked pork, was the major player in the first course, but this time, while I suppose it was German-ish, or actually, Austrian-ish (read Tirolean), it was an …
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kassler; quince chutney; maple-roasted squash; wild cress
This isn’t a German dinner, in spite of what appear to be some reasonable cues to the contrary. More like American, or, specifically, more like my kitchen. I used my imagination to assemble a meal which would enjoy the accompaniment of the quince chutney left over from our Thanksgiving duck feast, and smoked pork (Kassler) …
kassler, sellerie, meerrettich-gelee; saltzkartoffeln; rotkohl
We had gotten back only the night before, Monday, after being away for almost a week, so the cupboards were almost bare, and Tuesday was not a Greenmarket day. Nevertheless, I knew I could still assemble a decent meal around virtually the only vegetables in the house, a beautiful red cabbage waiting in the crisper, …
spice-rubbed quail; rosemary potatoes; treviso, balsamic
Even without an occasion, quail always seems like an occasion. a brace of pasture-raised certified organic quail from Abra Morawiec’s Feisty Acres Farm in Jamesport, Long Island, each weighing a little more than 8 ounces, rinsed, dried inside and out, the cavities seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, with one quarter of a gently squeezed organic …
peppers-roasted squid; grilled tomatoes, balsamic; arugula
This dinner may be almost the opposite of the one we enjoyed the day before. but, while It was more Mediterranean, and certainly lighter, in several ways, it was a meal of game. For all of their suggestion of undomesticated ruggedness, neither the pork chops nor the chestnuts represented the idea of ‘game’ as much …
kassler, ramps; potatoes, spring garlic; chard, spring onion
Mischling Deutsch. Sure there was Kassler, but the meal was more ‘free’ German than ‘serienmäßig‘ German. It was also very allium-y, spring allium-y in particular: Each of the entrée’s 3 elements included a different local mild spring ‘onion’. The vegetables were superb; both potatoes and chard, like almost everything else, were from the Union Square Greenmarket, …
salchichón Ibérico, cress; fettuccine with sorrel and pinoli
The salumi course incorporated 3 different national traditions, but it still looked Italian. two ounces of Fermin Salchichón Ibérico dry-cured sausage from the Chelsea Foragers Market, made from the ‘pata negro’ breed of pig (Iberico pork, salt, nutmeg, black pepper, white pepper, plus seasoning which consisted of sugar, trisodium citrate, sodium nitrate, and potassium nitrate), …
duck sausage, balsamic cherry; cress; roast carrots, chives
It wasn’t a great meal, but it was pretty good, and it included 2 elements never before seen on these pages: Something called ‘duck rillettes sausage’ (the farm describes it as ‘shredded duck confit sausage’) and a balsamic dried cherry thyme compote. Rather than pan-grilling the sausage, I should probably have fried the links in a heavy pan, at …
Schweinebauch knusprig; Kartoffelklöße; Russischer Kohl
I don’t know where the idea for this dinner actually started in my head, but somewhere near the beginning I spotted a very neat package of a small cut of pork belly in the Flying Pigs stall at the Greenmarket. Roughly a week later I picked out a similar one to take home. Then I waited for …
freekeh pilaf with chorizo, rainbow micro greens; arugula
I love food that is not a part of the Western tradition, but if you know me, or have been hanging around this food blog, you probably know my cooking almost never strays far from the European canon, or some new interpretations of it, by myself or found. I always make the excuse that my small …