Swordfish belly. It was beautiful, lying inside a tub on the ice. I had almost no idea what it was, or at least I didn’t know what if would taste like, or how I should cook it, but when I saw it at the fisherman’s stand in Union Square on Monday I wasn’t going to pass …
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fried blowfish; tomatillo-tomato-shallot-fennel-lovage salsa
I used to be puzzled by the people who get so excited about the arrival of blowfish in the local fish market (in the big piscivore picture, their numbers may not be large, but it always seemed like I was the only one who didn’t get it). I get it now. As I wrote last September, they …
rib eye, grilled ramps; herbed fingerlings; mustard greens
Even though there would be only 2 of us for dinner on Sunday, I had expected to cook something festive, something roast-ish (but necessarily small), but a glance at the mid-April New York weather forecast (high in the mid-80’s, and humid), sent me back to my sketch pad. My choices at the market when I was there …
knusprige Schweinshaxn; Kartoffelklöße; Blaukraut
[aka crispy pork knuckles, potato dumplings, red cabbage] Somewhere, while doing research for this meal, I came across a reference to a Bavarian proverb intended to reassure a cook worried about how large a knuckle to use: ‘‘S is ned, wia grous’ s is, aba wia guad’ s is.‘, it goes, at least as I translated it …
haddock, cress; Kassler Braten; horseradish potato; tardivo
Yesterday I tweeted that our New Years Day dinner would be “Germany with some Italian, and, as always, New York too”. I followed through later in the day, and this post describes what it looked like, as prepared for four. We began with bread sticks and a sparkling wine, to toast good friends and the new year …
mustard-braised veal ribs; roasted radicchio; minutina
oh, wow. I’ve never cooked veal ribs before. Growing up, I loved my mother’s ‘barbecued spare ribs’, and I know I’ve cooked pork ribs a few times, but that was well before I began this blog, so I have no documentation. I did cook goat ribs some 5 years back, but that’s about it in modern times, so …
speck, wild cress; grilled spicy salmon; flat beans; tomato
It was a warm evening. The first course never got anywhere near a stove. I was very fortunate in the greens I had been able to bring home from Union Square on Friday: They were a perfect, spicy foil to the headiness of the smoky pork. None of the elements of the second course spent more than a …
steak, radish micro greens; roasted sunchokes; asparagus
I first walked into The Meat Hook in 2009, soon after they had opened on Frost Street. The gradual dispersion of the Williamsburg gallery scene in the years after that meant that we soon lost contact with these excellent suppliers, but last Sunday we headed over to their new shop after a visit to ‘SEVEN-ish, Seriously Funny‘, installed by ‘Seven at The Boiler’ through …
seafood sausage, browned butter, vetch; sunchokes; kale
The meal was surf [but with a pork casing] & turf [otherwise only vegetables], even if it looks downright earthy. It was. four sweet seafood sausages from The Lobster Place [salmon, shrimp cod, scallops, Italian seasonings, fennel seed, shallots, pepper, fresh parsley, pork casing] pan-grilled for about 10 minutes, turning regularly, accompanied by a brown butter sauce made by melting a third of …
spicy salmon, potatoes with lovage, red cabbage, cress
filet after being rubbed with the sugar and spices, before it was refrigerated Thinking of the arguable thesis that an artist’s best work may often arise from working with constraints, I will make the modest proposal that the same thing can work for the creative output of an ordinary cook. I was unable to get …