Pasta has a wonderful affinity for any smoked food, whether meat, fish, or vegetable, and this recipe, in which I had incorporated smoked monkfish the first time I worked with it, is an excellent exemplar. one small pink onion (“I like to call them rosé onions”, Tyler, who grew them, told me) from Alewife Farm, thinly-sliced, and half a …
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monkfish inguazato; roasted romanesco with habanada
Say it fast: ‘coda di rospo inguazato con broccoli romanesco‘. We had returned from a month in Berlin only 4 days earlier, where ‘monkfish’ is called Seeteufel [‘sea devil’], a response to its appearance when hauled from the sea. I’ve been enjoying using German names to describe food normally not specific to German cookery, but I wasn’t tempted …
roasted striped bass; micro radish; pole beans, habanada
It was the first meal that I had actually cooked in over a month. Because of a little sleep deprivation and the inevitable jet lag which followed on our two flights from Berlin (a total of 12 hours), I didn’t want to be too ambitious, but I did want it to be a proper welcome back. Also, it …
grilled scallops, habanada, tomato, lemon, tarragon; rapini
I’m back, even though yesterday I had just said I didn’t have time to do these posts this week. You can ignore this one if you wish (although that probably wouldn’t be a good idea). I’m really only publishing it so that I can remember to do this preparation again. It was really, really good. I’m …
pasta, alliums, lemon, chilis, habanada, smoked monkfish
Made in heaven, when we weren’t even paying that much attention. This simple looking dish of pasta far exceeded both of our expectations. I haven’t been posting on this blog lately, because we’ve been very busy trying to get the apartment ready for friends who will be staying here while we are in their Berlin apartment. I’m making an …
wild mushroom-braised chicken; sautéed peppers, savory
So it was just chicken, but it seemed to me it would be a very good chicken. I also had the help of some wonderful foraged mushrooms. It was very good chicken. And there was excellent wine. I had bought the wild mushrooms at the Union Square Greenmarket. I knew I wouldn’t be able to use …
flounder with sage, habanada, scallion; flat beans, savory
Brown butter. The first appearance of brown butter, long ago, was probably the result of an accident, like so many wonderful things – of all kinds – that we enjoy and take for granted. Last night it was an accident again, a very local accident. I’ve cooked flounder using the recipe I used yesterday more than once, but …
mushroom ravioli, alliums, olive, peppers, pinoli, 2 fennels
To me, these meals in which I use fresh pasta, usually a filled form, always seem like they come pre-assembled, and yet they also offer huge opportunities for customization, working with both necessity and whim. Last night the necessity was that I had very little time to put something together once I got back from Whole Foods Market where …
spicy goat sausage, arugula; peppers, fennel, scallion
This was the second day in a row that we enjoyed meats from one of our favorite local cheese makers. The first time it was veal, this time it was goat, both as superlative as Consider Bardwell’s acclaimed cheeses. The sausage was wonderful. It was also so juicy it really didn’t need a sauce or condiment, although I found …
tomato and chevre; veal with sage, fennel, lemon; peppers
It was almost an insalata caprese, but instead of a mozzarella, the cheese was a local fresh chevre (from a small producer I’ve enjoyed supporting since their fantastic goat milk cheeses first arrived at the Union Square Greenmarket around 10 years ago). And it was almost a pork chop, except the meat wasn’t pork but local …