When I arrived at the fish stand in the Greenmarket on Saturday there was only one remaining fillet of Blackfish (Eastern Long Island- and Rhode Island-speak: ‘Tautog’). It’s one of my favorite fishes, but this piece was a little smaller than I would normally prefer for the two of us. Still, noticing that I had recently cooked all …
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rib eye, grilled ramps; herbed fingerlings; mustard greens
Even though there would be only 2 of us for dinner on Sunday, I had expected to cook something festive, something roast-ish (but necessarily small), but a glance at the mid-April New York weather forecast (high in the mid-80’s, and humid), sent me back to my sketch pad. My choices at the market when I was there …
to explain again, I didn’t cook this meal; I just assembled it
Because it was on what some folks call ‘Holy Saturday’ (as a child, a choir boy, and an altar boy, I was one of them), and it was the second day of the ‘Paschal fast’, the meal we enjoyed last night would have been much in line with Catholic tradition. But that’s not why we had it. Also, …
late breakfast, Easter Sunday: totally worth missing lunch
We usually sleep very late on Sunday, and since we almost invariably have some form of egg dish which is not quickly assembled, it’s often well into the afternoon by the time we sit down. Today it was especially late (both the rising and the preparing, and thus the eating as well), once again ensuring that there would …
mushroom ravioli, wild garlic, pinoli, parmesan, micro green
I usually keep a package of a frozen filled pasta on hand for those nights when I had not expected to be making any dinner at all, but then plans changed. This was not one of those times. Instead, preparing the ravioli was a deliberate choice by which I managed to occupy the space between 2 more …
hake with sage, lemon, micro fennel; potato, lovage; mizuna
It was an embarrassment of riches: I think there were 4 varieties of flat fish at the stand, and 3 other kinds of white fish. I love them all, but on Friday I chose the hake, because it was probably the least recent visitor to our kitchen. That night I re-visited a familiar recipe, ‘nasello …
breakfast, with no onion, and only a hint of tomato this time
I vary the ingredients each week, but very dramatically (it’s effectively morning for us, so there’s not a lot of ready imagination before I start cooking). This time, except for some refrigerator-dried cut chive, I left the alliums out entirely, and, except for a tiny bit of cooked tomato juices I had been keeping since the previous Sunday breakfast, there …
lemon pork chop with red amaranth, inguazato, collards
This is one of the easiest meals I get to put together, and I do something like it pretty often. It’s easy because the recipes are simple, because I’ve assembled each of them a number of times, and, it’s even easier this time because one of the 3 things on the plate had been prepared earlier – 5 …
sunday breakfast, later than usual, but still a breakfast
More than bacon and eggs. There were eggs and bacon from Millport Dairy Farm, the eggs dusted with a little dried dark habanada pepper, chopped thin stems of wild garlic from Lani’s Farm, Maldon salt, Tellicherry pepper, and a bit of red wasabi micro radish from two Guys from Woodbridge; there were 3 Backyard Farms Maine …
wine-garlic-anchovy spare rib braise; sweet potatoes; kale
I don’t seem to have cooked pork ribs since I began this blog. I now realize that was a mistake. The little package of ‘baby back ribs‘ lay on top of the farmer’s iced box of various pork cuts at the Union Square Greenmarket. I had already picked out 2 small pork chops, but the neat tidiness …