It was our first weekend back in New York. Berlin was still in our heads and our hearts, so while our regular Sunday home routine meant bacon, eggs, and toasted bread, this time it was Spiegeleier, geräucherter Speck, und frisches Multikorn-Brot. But in a nod to our very local, New York tradition, there were also Habanada peppers, micro greens, …
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smoked monkfish; Grano Arsopasta, allium, fennel, tomato
We often eat so late that I haven’t wanted to extend meals later than they already run with just one course. Still, I’ve been trying to fit in an appetizer course again, and on Tuesday it finally happened. I realize only as I write this, probably because there was so much else going on in this meal, that …
seared swordfish belly; castelfranco; tomatoes, oregano
Swordfish belly. It was beautiful, lying inside a tub on the ice. I had almost no idea what it was, or at least I didn’t know what if would taste like, or how I should cook it, but when I saw it at the fisherman’s stand in Union Square on Monday I wasn’t going to pass …
eggs and a lot of herbs and spices, plus bacon and toast
It wasn’t Sunday breakfast, and we can’t even pretend it was brunch; we had our first meal of the day somewhere between the hours when decent folks have their lunches and dinners. Maybe that’s why I ended up putting so much into it. While the meal looks fairly straightforward in the picture, at least by my …
shrimp with chipotle, saffron, cumin; tomatoes with alliums
I’ve done it before, in fact more than once: This shrimp recipe is an awesome treat each time. The vegetable accompaniment has always been a tomato something. The flavors are a brilliant match, and the colors are as well (which is not always a good thing, but there are a lot of flavors moving around inside these 2 dishes). That’s where …
artichoke ravioli, heirloom tomato, olive oil, oregano buds
This was the very best artichoke-filled pasta I’ve ever had. Among its other virtues, there was no ‘ricotta extender’, so the artichoke flavors were not watered down – or buried by the heirloom tomato sauce. The quality of those tomatoes was also a big factor in the dish’s success. two sliced garlic cloves from Lucky Dog Organic Farm, …
lemon/thyme marinated dolphin, leeks; sautéed cucumber
It’s a wonderful fish; they all are, at least those we’ve figured out make good eating (but, yes, all of the others are wonderful as well). I had served dolphin 4 times before; each time the fish seemed more delicious than before, and so it was last Wednesday (August 16). I love cucumbers in any form. This time they …
red fife pasta, duck bacon, onion, cardoon, mint; cheese
Thinking about what might be the best way to use the extra, cardoons I had prepared but not used in this meal on Monday, the answer seemed simple: Pasta! I was concerned about the bitterness of the [thistle stems], as I mentioned in the post describing that meal; I suspected the pasta would dilute most, if not all of …
‘gilded’ hake, sage, parsley; cardoons, garlic, bread crumbs
I was pretty excited to find cardoons in the Greenmarket on Monday. The excitement continued all the way through its several cooking processes – even while working inside a very warm and humid kitchen – and it survived the entire meal. Barry, who is crazy about artichokes, which are related to cardoons (both are thistles) was less enthusiastic, because he thought they were …
lemon-roasted pork chop, red dandelion; heirloom tomato
The pork chop recipe is a classic, but I may never have worked with cuts this thin before. It meant that it was more difficult to get the kind of juiciness characteristic of this cooking treatment, but by cutting the original recipe’s oven time almost in half (the recipe is described here), I came pretty close to the …