Sometimes the picture on these posts may be as good as the food, but not always, since my first priority is getting the plate to the table rather than arranging an “I’m ready for my close up, Mr. DeMille” installation. This was one of those good sometimes. The beautiful purple radishes were almost as key to …
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monkfish on a bed of potatoes and olives with 13 bay leaves
In spite of its somewhat grand appearance in the picture above, it’s one of the most perfect minimal meals I know, and it’s been very popular with Barry and me for years. This time it was even more spectacular, for a reason probably related to a decision to include some habanada pepper in the mix. Monkfish is the ideal …
herb-basted grilled goat rib; lemon-roasted white beet; kale
I had only cooked goat ribs once before. It was early August, and I wanted to avoid turning on the oven, so I managed to devise a scheme that would allow be to cook them on top of the stove. They were delicious, and it was a very simple process, so I repeated it last night. The …
fluke, mushroom, herb; amaranth; paprika-roasted parsnip
It was definitely winter (the parsnips we enjoyed were purchased from a stand in the greenmarket during a snowstorm), so last night’s meal wasn’t going to look like something from last July. (the Berkshire Berries table on the afternoon when I bought the parsnips) But many of the same fish we enjoy in the summer are …
culotte steak; celeriac/paprika frites; cumin cabbage
It’s possible my memory is blurred, but until I can be persuaded otherwise, I’m going to say this was the best steak I’d ever had. The cut itself (called ‘culotte’ here, ‘coulotte’ in France, ‘picanha’ in Brazil) has become my favorite, certainly for its flavor but also for the kind of chewiness I enjoy in good beef; ‘melt in your …
starting Sunday off with uova in purgatorio
(it really does look like eggs in purgatory) I got so excited about this egg dish early this afternoon, that I forgot to photograph it once it had been arranged in shallow bowls. Fortunately I had sneaked a shot of my ‘eggs in purgatory’ while they were still inside the heavy antique French copper pot. …
herb-breaded mutton ribs; fennel-roasted carrots; lacinato
The mutton was delicious, but cook should have used a recipe more suited to its slightly idiosyncratic properties. The ribs were finished exactly as as I hoped they would be, that is, medium-rare, but they were very chewy. I don’t believe that had to follow from using either this of meat variety or this cut: I think a more enclosed or moist …
smoked pork chops in Weinkraut; cress; roasted radishes
We both agreed that this was absolutely the most delicious smoked pork we had ever had – in any form. I’d say it was almost entirely about the virtue of the supplier, Flying Pigs Farm, but I would also have to add that, over time, I’ve learned a little about how to best enjoy this …
cabbage; pigeon; chutney; potatoes; collards; cheese; port
It was the 25th of December. We don’t celebrate Christmas as such, but, as with other major Christian holidays from each of our youths, we observe the occasion with good food, good wine, and, whenever possible, good company. Last night we were only two. On these family days it’s often extremely difficult to get friends to join us for …
spaghetti, smoked eel, garlic, two chili sorts, pangrattato
It was the eve of Christmas, La Vigilia, in southern Italy, and in Italian-American families, Festa dei sette pesci, but as we’re neither Italian nor Catholic, I thought we could get away with just one fish last night. But it was a very special fish, and there was pasta too! one large cloves of Rocambole garlic from Keith’s …