It would have been a pretty interesting menu for any important meal: Lots of oysters, venison chops, sweet potato frites, a baby brassica mix. It was also, in spite of the absence of turkey (and many of the other fetish items associated with everyone’s very proprietary holiday), very much in tune with the occasion we …
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grilled swordfish salad; roasted goat rack; brussels sprouts
The only swordfish steaks left inside the fishers’ bucket on Friday when I arrived at his stand in the Union Square Greenmarket were a bit larger than what we normally share, so, at Paul’s suggestion, that evening I decided to cut off a smaller section, grill it with the other two, larger parts, that we …
simple wild salmon; rosemary-roasted potato; dandelion
Sometimes it all comes together when you weren’t particularly expecting it. This meal was a perfect symphony of its fairly basic elements, none of which were extraordinary on their own except for their freshness and their quality. one gorgeous 17-ounce section from a fillet of wild caught sockeye salmon (previously frozen), from Chelsea Whole Foods …
smoked scallops, greens; roast veal chops; potato; greens
I had put them together in this meal for other reasons, but the smoked scallops and the roasted veal seemed to somehow share a real affinity, something that was barely apparent to me until I was sitting down to the second of those courses last night. six smoked scallops (a total of 8 ounces) from …
squid/conch salad, escarole; roasted squash, seared cod
I always imagine I’m tasting the sea itself with a fresh seafood salad prepared by the wife of one of our local fishermen. As for the main course Wednesday night, while ‘winter cod’ isn’t a real thing, cod on a wintery night is, and that night it looked like it there really was such a …
duck breast, chives; fennel-roasted carrots; roasted treviso
They look like felafel, but they’re carrots, roasted carrots, more-or-less-round roasted carrots. They’re a 19th-century French heirloom variety, so not just a new fancy, not just cute, but really delicious. The foods that share the plate are familiar enough on this blog, but were no less tasty Tuesday night. one 14-ounce duck breast from Hudson River …
fennel-rubbed tuna, sorrel; tomatoes, oregano; red mustard
This tuna dish is incredibly easy to assemble, and it’s always a huge treat, but this time it was heaven. two 7 or 8-ounce yellowfin tuna steaks from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, rinsed, dried, tops and bottoms seasoned with local sea salt produced by the fisherman himself and freshly-ground black pepper, ‘paved’ with a mixture …
pasta, leeks, celery, chilis, lemon, smoked bluefish, crumbs
A little bit of smoke goes a long way, whether it’s with vegetables, meat, or fish, but this time we had a full 4 ounce section of smoked bluefish fillet to mix with less than 8 ounces of dried pasta, a ratio twice that I’ve used with similar dishes in the past. Joy. several chopped …
grilled partridge; dandelion; chili/rosemary-roasted turnips
Oh my. Yes. We both love game, but I’m pretty certain I’ve never prepared or eaten partridge before. It doesn’t show up anywhere on this blog, and where else would I have had the opportunity, especially before I started it, in 2009?, so I didn’t really know what to expect. While I was planning and …
potato/chili/olive/bay-roasted lotte; pole beans with thyme
It felt pretty wintry on Friday, so, yeah, fish and potatoes. But, hedging our bets on the season, there were also yellow pole beans. twelve or 14 ounces of scrubbed, dried, and thinly sliced red potatoes from Willow Wisp Farm, arranged, overlapping, on the bottom of a glazed earthenware oven pan, covered with 3 tablespoons, …