Mischling Deutsch. Sure there was Kassler, but the meal was more ‘free’ German than ‘serienmäßig‘ German. It was also very allium-y, spring allium-y in particular: Each of the entrée’s 3 elements included a different local mild spring ‘onion’. The vegetables were superb; both potatoes and chard, like almost everything else, were from the Union Square Greenmarket, …
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salchichón Ibérico, cress; fettuccine with sorrel and pinoli
The salumi course incorporated 3 different national traditions, but it still looked Italian. two ounces of Fermin Salchichón Ibérico dry-cured sausage from the Chelsea Foragers Market, made from the ‘pata negro’ breed of pig (Iberico pork, salt, nutmeg, black pepper, white pepper, plus seasoning which consisted of sugar, trisodium citrate, sodium nitrate, and potassium nitrate), …
Schweinebauch knusprig; Kartoffelklöße; Russischer Kohl
I don’t know where the idea for this dinner actually started in my head, but somewhere near the beginning I spotted a very neat package of a small cut of pork belly in the Flying Pigs stall at the Greenmarket. Roughly a week later I picked out a similar one to take home. Then I waited for …
seared swordfish belly; castelfranco; tomatoes, oregano
Swordfish belly. It was beautiful, lying inside a tub on the ice. I had almost no idea what it was, or at least I didn’t know what if would taste like, or how I should cook it, but when I saw it at the fisherman’s stand in Union Square on Monday I wasn’t going to pass …
fried blowfish; tomatillo-tomato-shallot-fennel-lovage salsa
I used to be puzzled by the people who get so excited about the arrival of blowfish in the local fish market (in the big piscivore picture, their numbers may not be large, but it always seemed like I was the only one who didn’t get it). I get it now. As I wrote last September, they …
knusprige Schweinshaxn; Kartoffelklöße; Blaukraut
[aka crispy pork knuckles, potato dumplings, red cabbage] Somewhere, while doing research for this meal, I came across a reference to a Bavarian proverb intended to reassure a cook worried about how large a knuckle to use: ‘‘S is ned, wia grous’ s is, aba wia guad’ s is.‘, it goes, at least as I translated it …
haddock, cress; Kassler Braten; horseradish potato; tardivo
Yesterday I tweeted that our New Years Day dinner would be “Germany with some Italian, and, as always, New York too”. I followed through later in the day, and this post describes what it looked like, as prepared for four. We began with bread sticks and a sparkling wine, to toast good friends and the new year …
speck, wild cress; grilled spicy salmon; flat beans; tomato
It was a warm evening. The first course never got anywhere near a stove. I was very fortunate in the greens I had been able to bring home from Union Square on Friday: They were a perfect, spicy foil to the headiness of the smoky pork. None of the elements of the second course spent more than a …
seafood sausage, browned butter, vetch; sunchokes; kale
The meal was surf [but with a pork casing] & turf [otherwise only vegetables], even if it looks downright earthy. It was. four sweet seafood sausages from The Lobster Place [salmon, shrimp cod, scallops, Italian seasonings, fennel seed, shallots, pepper, fresh parsley, pork casing] pan-grilled for about 10 minutes, turning regularly, accompanied by a brown butter sauce made by melting a third of …
spicy salmon, potatoes with lovage, red cabbage, cress
filet after being rubbed with the sugar and spices, before it was refrigerated Thinking of the arguable thesis that an artist’s best work may often arise from working with constraints, I will make the modest proposal that the same thing can work for the creative output of an ordinary cook. I was unable to get …