It was again Sunday breakfast with eggs, this time without the bacon, but with tomatoes (which usually make an appearance at this time) – and leeks, which were standing in for one or more of the smaller alliums which are usually a part of our weekend treat. Because of other commitments, right now I’m in the midst of …
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croxetti, brown butter, pinoli, habanada, oregano, parsley
It’s just pasta, supposedly, and the ingredients are virtually identical to so many others but, through the mystery of shape, terroir, process, and tradition, croxetti never tastes like any other. We’ve enjoyed it at home several times, but not in the form we enjoyed last night. I didn’t know what exactly to expect, but I …
roasted squid, oregano, chilis, habanada, fennel; spinach
I’m probably never going to understand why squid are not way up at the top of the scale when it comes to popularity, for their taste alone. When cooked with some sensitivity, they are one of the most delicious seafood forms around, and they really need very little embellishment. They’re also completely sustainable, and I think …
steak, rosemary; fingerlings, habanada, lovage; chard
The little steaks were tri-tips, already one of the most flavorful of beef cuts. These 2 were 100% grass-fed, apparently a very important distinction for many people, but one which I have not yet been able to fully grasp. I do know that they were delicious, possibly more ‘meaty’ than most we’ve had in the past, may have been more lean than …
lomo, cress; beer pasta, wild garlic, habanada, parmesan
The antipasto came after the pasta; well, the selection came after, but we kept the classic order. The smoky-paprika-rubbed lomo seemed a pretty appropriate introduction for what I expected would be a somewhat earthy primi, and it was (earthy, and appropriate). two ounces of thin slices of La Quercia Lomo, lonza di maiale stagionata) from Whole Foods, served with a bit …
baked cod, potatoes, habanada, micro amaranth; mustards
Great, great stuff. As delicious as it looks. The cod was very fresh, and very sweet, as were the potatoes and the gorgeous micro amaranth. I didn’t have enough of any one kind of potato to produce a dish I’ve made many times before, and each of the 2 varieties I ended up using was considerably smaller …
scallops, mushroom, shallot, habanada; micro beet; mizuna
I had just picked up the scallops when I spotted the mushrooms. They were irresistible, so I decided they would join the shellfish for dinner. I already had some beautiful purple mizuna at home that I had picked up on Friday from some of my favorite farmers, just returned to the Greenmarket after being away for the winter. And so …
sunchoke pasta, wild garlic, habanada, cheese, micro beet
Simple. Very good. eight ounces of a locally-sourced and locally-produced, seasonal and and artisanal pasta, Sfoglini ‘Jerusalem Artichoke Fusilli’ (incorporating sunchokes grown by Norwich Meadows Farm) which had been cooked al dente during the preparation of a sauce which was nothing more than some chopped spring garlic from Lani’s Farm and a crushed section of a dried orange-golden habanada pepper warmed …
sea perch, wild garlic, habanada, anchovy; radishes; rabe
With its gorgeous pink/red skin, I find it difficult to avoid bringing Sea perch home whenever I see it at a fish seller’s stall in Union Square, especially since it has so many other virtues, beginning with excellent flavor and texture, and including ease of preparation, at least as I have come to know it. The radishes had …
pollock baked with zest, wild garlic, habanada; sprouts
It’s a great fish, and this is a great recipe, especially because it encourages some finely-drawn variations, none of which I think should be considered ‘the standard’. In honor of these 2 noble fillets, and the delicate condiments with which I decided to grace them, I also added a couple of subtle elements to the yeoman …