Mischling Deutsch. Sure there was Kassler, but the meal was more ‘free’ German than ‘serienmäßig‘ German. It was also very allium-y, spring allium-y in particular: Each of the entrée’s 3 elements included a different local mild spring ‘onion’. The vegetables were superb; both potatoes and chard, like almost everything else, were from the Union Square Greenmarket, …
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baked salmon, lovage, micro scallion; celeriac frites; greens
The entire meal was much more successful than I had expected while I was still putting it together in my head little than an hour earlier. It all started with the salmon fillet, which I had bought that afternoon, and at a very good price. The mustard greens, picked up at the Greenmarket 3 days earlier, seemed a natural to go …
octopus salad, arugula; lamb sausage, potatoes, cress
There are a few things I prepare at home for which I have make almost no apologies when I slip from the locavore thing. One of them is octopus, and if we could find this cephalopod on the east coast I’d be happy to stop raiding Spanish or Moroccan waters for one of my favorite sea creatures. …
speck, arugula; spaghetti, lemon, fava greens, parmesan
Tuesday was the official first day of spring, but until these greens appeared in the Union Square Greenmarket on Friday, I wasn’t quite feeling it. We really celebrated the equinox yesterday, after an antepasto which only looked springy. While the Speck, a dry-cured, lightly smoked ham, isn’t specific to any season, the pasta it introduced was, as it came garlanded with fava …
kassler, scallion, garlic oregano jelly; potatoes; mustard
Is it still ‘Kassler‘ even when it’s not entirely German? I’ve made a working-executive decision: It is. The only thing I worry about when I prepare a meal with smoke pork chops without heating them inside some Sauerkraut is whether they will be juicy. I’ve come up with the solution: keep them covered, and even the tiniest bit of liquid …
truffle ravioli; mustard-braised veal ribs; Brussels sprouts
It was Friday afternoon. While returning from the Union Square Greenmarket with a fine haddock fillet inside my insulated bag, which I would cook for dinner that night, I stopped by our local Eataly Market for something incidental. I had already decided that on the next day I would cook some veal riblets which were waiting for us in the …
Kassler, Sauerkraut; Saltzkartoffeln, Roggen Brotkrumen
Last night, just after we had finished eating, and before writing this post, I followed up on a tweet and reply I had published earlier in the evening that had indicated, with no embellishments, what one of the major parts of this meal would be (I even included an image of the sauerkraut while it was …
Kassler with sauerkraut; boiled potatoes with breadcrumbs
I just now realized what’s really missing in this picture, if not so much in the meal itself. Chopped Parsley (see an earlier version of the dinner). I sometimes forget that parsley (Petersilie) is very much a part of German cuisine, and it would be completely appropriate to find a bit of that herb on the …
Kassler, Senf, Bierkraut; Saltzkartoffeln; Zwei Rauchbiere
It was a snow day. It felt like a holiday. It was also pretty cold outside (and we still haven’t turned on the heat inside), so a warm kitchen felt right. I had all the makings for a traditional German entrée inside the apartment, and we also had some terrific beer. We had a terrific, traditional German …
Kassler, Lauch, Meerrettich; Quitte; Rüben; rote Rüben
A pretty glorious meal. I’m probably most comfortable with Italian-oriented cookery, and its modern emanations, but when I return to one of my earliest enthusiasms, German cooking (which began in the early-60s in Germany and was later encouraged by Mimi Sheraton and her 1965, ‘German Cookery’), both the ingredients and the process seem totally familiar, and the …