I had no idea that there were ramps in Spain. Actually, I’m pretty certain that there are none, but tonight, after bringing home an exceptional cut of pork which I associate with Spain, I took a few liberties with what I still saw as a rather Spanish dinner, and the ramps were a part of that. The …
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pork tenderloin, sage; roast potato, herbs; tomato; collards
The entrée was unanticipated: I had gone to the Greenmarket stand of our friendly Vermont cheese makers to buy one of their new ‘experimental’ cheeses, but when I arrived Peter showed me some quite small frozen pork tenderloins, and I couldn’t pass them up. Consider Bardwell produces absolutely wonderful goat and cow cheeses, and a certain amount of meat from …
smoked pork, spring onions; potatoes, breadcrumbs; kale
For the last couple of months I’ve been moving around a single smoked pork chop in our freezer. It was the survivor from what had originally been a package of two. Neither of us can remember when we had 3 chops, that is, one guest for a dinner, but to make matters awkward, our favorite vender for these …
orecchiette al forno; lemon-roasted pork with sage; kale
maybe the layout looks a bit too obsessive, but it tasted very good We had invited two friends to dinner long before ‘Jonas’ showed up last night. It was a good thing they lived across the hall, because 30.5 inches of snow might have meant we would not have had a dinner party at all. Part of …
Portuguese pork, wax beans 09/26/10
We may have thought a bit more than usual in choosing an appropriate wine for this meal. An Alentejo would have been appropriate, and probably super, but we didn’t have a Portuguese red in our rack. We ended up opening this Crianza from Bierzo, an area of Spain just 50 miles north and east of its …
kassler; quince chutney; maple-roasted squash; wild cress
This isn’t a German dinner, in spite of what appear to be some reasonable cues to the contrary. More like American, or, specifically, more like my kitchen. I used my imagination to assemble a meal which would enjoy the accompaniment of the quince chutney left over from our Thanksgiving duck feast, and smoked pork (Kassler) …
kassler, sellerie, meerrettich-gelee; saltzkartoffeln; rotkohl
We had gotten back only the night before, Monday, after being away for almost a week, so the cupboards were almost bare, and Tuesday was not a Greenmarket day. Nevertheless, I knew I could still assemble a decent meal around virtually the only vegetables in the house, a beautiful red cabbage waiting in the crisper, …
peppers-roasted squid; grilled tomatoes, balsamic; arugula
This dinner may be almost the opposite of the one we enjoyed the day before. but, while It was more Mediterranean, and certainly lighter, in several ways, it was a meal of game. For all of their suggestion of undomesticated ruggedness, neither the pork chops nor the chestnuts represented the idea of ‘game’ as much …
Mangalitsa steak; celeriac paprika frites; scapes; tomato
Even without the red micro amaranth garnish, this is clearly a ‘red meat’. I was more than a little intimidated. I had been offered, and had purchased, a frozen Mangalitsa collar steak one week before, but I had no idea what to do with it. The breed of pig was very different from any known …
kassler, ramps; potatoes, spring garlic; chard, spring onion
Mischling Deutsch. Sure there was Kassler, but the meal was more ‘free’ German than ‘serienmäßig‘ German. It was also very allium-y, spring allium-y in particular: Each of the entrée’s 3 elements included a different local mild spring ‘onion’. The vegetables were superb; both potatoes and chard, like almost everything else, were from the Union Square Greenmarket, …