Late this past Friday we had invited a visitor from far outside New York, who was only going to be here for another week, to join us for dinner the next evening. I calculated that I had enough vegetables, and fruit, for 3, but the next day I would have to go down the street …
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fennel/chili-coated tuna; roasted potatoes; rapini; cheese
Another anniversary! At least partly because we’re living in the mythical state of sin, we celebrate not one, but five anniversaries: our meeting, the ‘magic meal’, declarations of love, exchange of rings, and happy-ever-after cohabitation. It’s a series that stretches from 4/27/91 to 1/6/93, and since they don’t show up chronologically within a single year …
steak, ramp butter; potatoes roasted with red onion; chard
Last night we had some old friends over for dinner. They were visiting their previous city from their current home in the Southwest. We hadn’t seen them in at least 15 years, and I was a little worried about what to put on the table, so I just went with meat and potatoes – and …
chorizo grill, cranberry mustard; boiled potato, chive; raab
It may look pretty unsophisticated, and it was unsophisticated, but the meal was delicious, and surprisingly cosmopolitan: The sausage was spicy Iberian, but made by a legendary New York German butcher shop; the sauce had both American and German elements, but was made in the U.S.; except for the Italian olive oil, the potatoes were …
speck; spicy lobster tomato spaghetti; cheese; cheese cake
It was St. Valentine’s Day, so there was a lot of red, -ish. The antipasto was created elsewhere, although assembled in our kitchen. five or 6 ounces of thinly-sliced Recla Speck Alto Adige IGP, from Bolzano, purchased at Eataly, drizzled lightly with a very good Sicilian olive oil, from from Agricento, Azienda Agricola Mandranova (exclusively Nocellara olives), arranged on …
grilled octopus; boiled potatoes, sorrel; tomato/cannellini
There’s no way can I properly describe this meal. To begin, there’s the miracle that I am even able to obtain octopus on a coast so rich in seafood but where this cephalopod mollusk is not found, and then actually cook it to the point of our shared satisfaction; these things already exceed my talent for expressing an appreciation of the superb dinner we …
butter-sage-cabbage-parmesan gnocchi; cheese; mirto
This concept is brilliant! How about the possibility of serving a delicious homemade-like pasta without boiling anything, meaning no waiting, no heating up the kitchen in summer. I picked up a single package of this gnocchi while at Eataly a few days ago, because I had been thinking about gnocchi, and the immediate selling point, at least …
beet fusilli, lemon juice and zest, arugula; pinoli, parmesan
Sfoglini makes great pasta, and they use local grains and local vegetables with the flavored varieties. The beet fusilli is among our favorites. Last night I was very happy to find inspiration for another way to serve it, on line. The site I found provided merely the sketchiest of recipes and no quantities were cited, so I’ll outline here what …
salume; spaghetti aglio olio peperoncino; formaggio, tosta
The pasta part of this dinner of 3 small courses was another opportunity to show what a real difference a very good artisanal pasta can make. The antipasto that precede it was identical to one we had enjoyed 2 days earlier, except that there was a different bread this time. While I’m looking at the image above, of …
crab cakes, salsa, dandelion; potatoes, lovage, scallion
Crab cakes from the Union Square Greenmarket: They’re an invitation to improvise, incredibly simple to ‘cook’, and always delicious. The fishers were unable to bring anything to the market on Monday, because the intense cold had meant they wouldn’t be able to go out on the ocean, so I reached into the freezer for my small reserve …