Winter is icumen in Winter is icumen in, Lhude sing Goddamm, Raineth drop and staineth slop, And how the wind doth ramm! Sing: Goddamm. Skiddeth bus and sloppeth us, An ague hath my ham. Freezeth river, turneth liver, Damm you; Sing: Goddamm. Goddamm, Goddamm, ’tis why I am, Goddamm, So ‘gainst the winter’s balm. Sing …
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simple wild salmon; rosemary-roasted potato; dandelion
Sometimes it all comes together when you weren’t particularly expecting it. This meal was a perfect symphony of its fairly basic elements, none of which were extraordinary on their own except for their freshness and their quality. one gorgeous 17-ounce section from a fillet of wild caught sockeye salmon (previously frozen), from Chelsea Whole Foods …
smoked scallops, greens; roast veal chops; potato; greens
I had put them together in this meal for other reasons, but the smoked scallops and the roasted veal seemed to somehow share a real affinity, something that was barely apparent to me until I was sitting down to the second of those courses last night. six smoked scallops (a total of 8 ounces) from …
aleppo pepper-sautéed tautog, olives, tomatoes; broccolini
Tautog is good. It’s not Provençal. And yet, except for the origin story of the fish (and the green vegetable too), this dinner could almost be Provençal, which is always good. two blackfish/Tautog fillets (one pound) from Pura Vida Seafood Company prepared following a recipe by Melissa Clark published in the New York Times 5 …
squid/conch salad, escarole; roasted squash, seared cod
I always imagine I’m tasting the sea itself with a fresh seafood salad prepared by the wife of one of our local fishermen. As for the main course Wednesday night, while ‘winter cod’ isn’t a real thing, cod on a wintery night is, and that night it looked like it there really was such a …
fennel-rubbed tuna, sorrel; tomatoes, oregano; red mustard
This tuna dish is incredibly easy to assemble, and it’s always a huge treat, but this time it was heaven. two 7 or 8-ounce yellowfin tuna steaks from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, rinsed, dried, tops and bottoms seasoned with local sea salt produced by the fisherman himself and freshly-ground black pepper, ‘paved’ with a mixture …
pasta, leeks, celery, chilis, lemon, smoked bluefish, crumbs
A little bit of smoke goes a long way, whether it’s with vegetables, meat, or fish, but this time we had a full 4 ounce section of smoked bluefish fillet to mix with less than 8 ounces of dried pasta, a ratio twice that I’ve used with similar dishes in the past. Joy. several chopped …
breakfast with less was a little more
It was good. Although it was a little simpler than many of these mid afternoon ‘fast breakers’, so I had at least metaphorically brought fewer things to the table. There were still a lot of containers however but fortunately I actually enjoy washing up afterward, and have never had a dishwasher, or even wanted one. …
grilled partridge; dandelion; chili/rosemary-roasted turnips
Oh my. Yes. We both love game, but I’m pretty certain I’ve never prepared or eaten partridge before. It doesn’t show up anywhere on this blog, and where else would I have had the opportunity, especially before I started it, in 2009?, so I didn’t really know what to expect. While I was planning and …
potato/chili/olive/bay-roasted lotte; pole beans with thyme
It felt pretty wintry on Friday, so, yeah, fish and potatoes. But, hedging our bets on the season, there were also yellow pole beans. twelve or 14 ounces of scrubbed, dried, and thinly sliced red potatoes from Willow Wisp Farm, arranged, overlapping, on the bottom of a glazed earthenware oven pan, covered with 3 tablespoons, …