It’s what we call a picnic; it’s our at-home hot weather meal of last resort (although because they’re such a pleasure, it’s sometimes very much a first resort, independent of an evening’s temperature and humidity levels). We sit at a wooden table next to an open window which looks out onto the roof garden, but there are no …
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eggs and bacon for lunch: just give it a good zhug
‘Morgenblätter‘. As someone keen on both journalism and food, I often think of that beautiful 19th century waltz at breakfast time, especially on Sundays. I don’t actually hum it, but I enjoy all the pleasant associations of the word, with the usual exception of the contents of the news itself. Well, it wasn’t our usual …
mackerel, yellow oyster mushrooms, ramps, lemon; rapini
I spotted the mackerel first thing at the Greenmarket on Monday. Then I saw the yellow mushrooms, and, a few minutes later, some very beautiful bronze fennel; the meal was now completely assembled in my head. But when I brought it to the table, although I had washed and chopped it, I forgot all about …
bresaola; cod on habanada-baked potatoes; beet greens
The first course was only a matter of assembly some good ingredients. a little over 3 ounces of bresoala Bielese salumeria from Eataly, arranged with a spray of a few live hydroponic dandelion greens from Two Guys from Ridgefield and some ‘baby Romano’ (oak leaf speckled lettuce) from Eckerton Hill Farm, drizzled with a very good Sicilian olive oil, …
spinach-ricotta agnolotti with alliums, tomato, micro radish
This dish was a snap to put together, but it tasted as luscious as it looks. fresh spinach and ricotta-filled Agnolotti, or demi-lunes from Luca Donofrio‘s fresh pasta shop inside Eataly’s Flatiron location, served with a sauce that began with heating, until it became fragrant, one halved Rocambole garlic clove from Keith’s Farm with a tablespoon or so of olive oil inside …
breakfast, more German than usual, on a Berlin schedule
It was our first weekend back in New York. Berlin was still in our heads and our hearts, so while our regular Sunday home routine meant bacon, eggs, and toasted bread, this time it was Spiegeleier, geräucherter Speck, und frisches Multikorn-Brot. But in a nod to our very local, New York tradition, there were also Habanada peppers, micro greens, …
steak, gorgonzola butter, micro radish; fingerlings, herbs
While there was both a primo and a secondo, it was still a very low-stress meal to prepare, probably helping to explain why it turned out so totally delicious. The first course was very simple. a small amount of leftover celeriac pasta from Tuesday, arranged in shallow bowls with a little upland cress from Two …
eggs, herbs/spices; bacon, cress, tomato grill, crusty bread
It was also lunch. It was pretty hastily thrown together around noon today, and the ingredients included some which had ben prepared fresh for the meal the night before ( call it ‘overstock’). The eggs and bacon were from Millport Dairy; the San Marzano tomatoes, seasoned, pan-grilled, then drizzled with olive oil and white balsamic vinegar, were from Stokes Farm; …
zito corto rigato with young onion, chilis, savory, tuna
I was ready for a very simple pasta dish. I had bought some fresh summer savory the day before and I was perfectly willing to leave it at that, as an excellent artisanal pasta dressed with oil, good dried pepper, and that pungent seasonal herb. I hadn’t expected there might be some tuna left over …
fennel/chili-grilled tuna; potato, wild garlic, lovage; kale
We hadn’t seen our friends in years; they were visiting from London and Norfolk, and they were coming to dinner. I wanted to serve something fine, but I didn’t want to spend all of my time in the kitchen once they arrived. The solution seemed obvious: To start there’d be a good salumi on plates with some …