‘Goat wings’, I’m calling them. They had started out great. But then they spent too much time in the oven. My estimate of the cooking time for slow-braised goat ribs was far more generous than it should have been (I was looking at a recipe for lamb, but I had goat (goats are pretty small, …
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steak, lemon, lovage; fingerlings, garlic, habanada; collards
Meat and potatoes. And greens. two incredibly delicious sirloin cap steaks (otherwise called ‘culotte’ here, ‘coulotte’ in France, ‘picanha’ in Brazil, or “the part where the cow was poked by ranchers“), from Sun Fed Beef/Maple Avenue Farms in their stall at the Union Square Greenmarket, brought to room temperature, seasoned on all sides with sea salt and freshly-ground black …
bresaola; smoked pork chops; roasted red turnips; sprouts
There was a lot of red, and off-red, but, in our defense, it was Valentine’s Day. The color began, even before any of the food had arrived, when I put this Transvaal native Gerbera daisy and its red-painted ancient iron cachepot on the table (like almost everything else connected to the meal, the plant had …
goat rack; chili-roasted potatoes; cabbage, alliums, vinegar
It was winter, the temperature was going to go down into the single digits, and we still didn;t intend to turn on any of the apartment radiators. I took a small roast out of the freezer the night before, thinking we’d appreciate having the oven going Wednesday evening, but also fully aware that a rack …
sea bass with tarragon; sunflower sprouts; roasted carrots
One and a half fillets, fried perfectly this time. Normally I insist on an even number when there are 2 of us, but this time there were 3 fillets, weighing exactly one pound. I was aiming for about a pound of fish, but my only other choices for a divisor for two people would have …
scallops, thyme; garlic/oregano-roasted tomatoes; arugula
It was late January, but last night’s dinner looked more like summer, thanks to the creativity of our local producers (everything, except for the tomatoes, came from area fields and waters). The delicious large cherry tomatoes came from Maine, which, as an adopted New Englander, I think of as almost local (at least it’s not …
spicy salmon, micro mustard; roasted mixed roots; arugula
We hadn’t enjoyed any seafood in days, an unusual dry spell for us. Normally we would have had some on Monday, but the fisher people from Eastern Long Island who are normally there that day, didn’t make it, like almost every other producer, because of the severe cold and wind. So It seemed like a …
pepper venison; herb-roasted potatoes; red cabbage; tilsit
It was a holiday. And there was game. Although venison is hardly what comes to mind on the day when the memory of Martin Luther King Jr. is especially abroad in the land, last night we celebrated the birthday of the great man partly with this very good meal. It was especially good, especially on an …
thyme & chili-grilled quail; roasted white pumpkin; cabbage
The quail may have been domesticated, but it still tastes wild, which is a very good thing. It’s one of our favorite entrées, even if it doesn’t appear on our table very often. It only showed up this time because, while looking for something else inside the packaged meat case in La Macelleria at Eataly …
fried duck breast; sweet potato frites; cabbage; cheeses
Practice. I’m getting the hang of this cooking thing, even with the added complication of guests. I had cooked everything that appears on this plate many times before, although with a little variation each time, but it still seems to me like an accomplishment that I hadn’t done anything ahead of time, that I started …