It looks like a holiday celebration. Of course I’m thinking of something that used to be called ‘Decoration Day‘, something beyond the morbid, more modern American celebration of soldiers fallen in the name of our national military fetish. I would prefer to think of this late spring weekend as an occasion when people gather, put …
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a faustian meal of slow braised goat, white turnips; collards
We do eat meat occasionally, but we don’t eat like this very often, and I definitely don’t cook like this very often. Roasts, stews, and long slow braises however do have their satisfactions, especially in colder realms in and colder months, like, well, parts of New York, this month. One of the other pleasures of …
bacon, eggs, garlic mustard, chicory, ramps, great toast
There were no tomatoes this time, and there was a minimum number of little herb or spice condiments, but – wonderful to relate – it was still really enjoyable, in the assembling and in the eating. The very special tender spring garlic mustard was the guest performer, but the great eggs, bacon, and one small …
pork rillettes; 7-hour pork belly, salt potatoes; tomato salad
The concept, or description of this meal alone might almost be satisfaction enough for a food enthusiast, if it had not also been really delicious, with all of the unusually long history of its making able to be fully savored in the tasting of it; also, aural satisfaction would assume the listener wasn’t actually hungry …
côtes de veau braisé*; pommes de terre et chicorée rôties
Last night I returned to my ancient, well-thumbed and lightly-sauced 1966 edition of Julia Child’s, ‘Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1’ to help me decide what to do with a cut of meat I don’t think I have ever prepared before. The result was really delicious, although it was very different from my current …
a colorful sunday breakfast, with the music of a wise king
I wasn’t going to bother doing this post except that the music was so special. Also, the picture works. the stuff on the plate last Sunday [afternoon]: some very fresh eggs from pastured chickens and bacon from pastured pigs, both from Millport Dairy Farm, seasoned with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and crushed dried …
local hemp rigatoni with a rich king oyster mushroom sauce
Gosh, this pasta is so good. Then every other Sfoglini product is as well. It’s just that, well, hemp is pretty special, even without the absurd extra-culinary associations someone who grew up in the American no-no land is never going to shake. eight ounces out of a box of Sfoglini hemp reginetti, boiled until just before …
spicy goat ribs, mustard sauce; rutabaga frites and greens
‘Goat wings’, I’m calling them. They had started out great. But then they spent too much time in the oven. My estimate of the cooking time for slow-braised goat ribs was far more generous than it should have been (I was looking at a recipe for lamb, but I had goat (goats are pretty small, …
haddock, pom pom mushroom/lemon/butter sauce; mizuna
There was mustard. But so much more. I found the haddock first (I almost always head for the fish stands before looking at anything else), and then, while looking for vegetables, I spotted a farmer new to the Union Square Greenmarket: She was offering a beautiful selection of mushrooms, along with 5 different sizes of …
coppa dolce, sunflower sprouts; whole wheat pasta, 2 kales
No, you’re not seeing double. Only a few days ago we had begun a different meal with an antipasto using almost all the same ingredients as those seen above, so it was probably a good thing that I led that post with the Marx Brothers rather than this wonderful salume. The only variation, and because …