I didn’t know until almost the last minute whether this dinner would happen. The hot water in the building had failed at around 6 o’clock, meaning it would be impossible to work in the kitchen; it wasn’t until some time close to 10 that it was restored. I then found myself rushing to do justice …
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skate, clam, lemon/thyme/habanada/shallot butter; haricot
There’s butter everywhere. I think we’re in northern France. We haven’t been there for a while, even in the kitchen, and in fact, the last time (and first) time I worked with this recipe it resulted in something quite different; maybe there was less butter. Also, the clams were bigger, way bigger. I think I …
zesty dolphin with habanada; minutina; currant tomatoes
It’s a super fish, its flavor and texture poised between the most interesting of the rich oily seafood and the most delicate of white-fleshed varieties. I love it. four fillets (a total of one pound) of skinned local dolphinfish from Pura Vida Seafood (aka orata, or dorade, or, in the US, commonly attached to the …
seared whiting on a basil vinaigrette; sautéed pepper mix
The kitchen was in chaos only moments before I snapped this picture. I had to do some unexpected trimming of the 2 fish filets (brought home as butterflied wholes) and then change my plans on how I was going to cook it, both at the last moment, and it was already late in the evening. …
penne, pepquinos, lemon, habanada, fenugreek, micro basil
They may not be cucumbers, and they look like micro watermelon, but they sure taste like cucumbers, albeit slightly sour cucumbers, with an added, and very distinctive, ‘pop’ when bitten into. a simple sauced pasta which began with a couple tablespoons of olive oil inside a high-sided tin-lined copper pot gently heating more than half …
inguazato; garlic/habanada-sautéed fennel, micro scallion
It’s not the best image I’ve captured of this terrific dish, which has appeared on this blog often, but it was nearly midnight when I finally set the plate on the table, and we had been enjoying a certain amount of sparkling wine with some great friends over the previous few hours. I wasn’t even …
seared culotte; rosemary/habanada rutabaga frites, tomato
It was Memorial Day weekend, so I made an attempt to observe the holiday that once celebrated the countless dead in our many wars but which now marks the beginning of the summer season. On Sunday night we had steak and French fries, with a tomato salad, or, to be more precise, seared and sautéed culotte …
bresaola; rye pasta, red onion, habanada, sage, poppyseed
I had looked at the Union Square Greenmarket phone app while still abed on Monday, and saw I that there would be no fisher presence there that day, probably because the weather over the weekend had kept the boats from going out, so I didn’t head down. I could have used some vegetables, but I knew …
salume; mushroom ravioli, alliums, habanada, olives, pinoli
It was the Saturday before the feast of Easter, the middle of the Easter Triduum. Although we don’t observe the religious parts of any religious holidays, we usually enjoy the celebrations, and especially the feasting. Last night, more or less unwittingly, we almost honored the Catholic tradition of a restrained ‘Paschal feast’: The main course was vegetarian, but the antipasto …
crab cakes, tomato salsa, mizuna; grilled leeks, habanada
These crab cakes never fail to please, and last night they also looked pretty spectacular. When I think about preparing crab cakes, specifically the ones made by Dolores, the wife of local fisherman Phil Karlin, of P.E. & D.D. Seafood, I often forget just how delicious they are. That changes each time, with the first bite. On Wednesday …