(the quince chutney hadn’t yet made it to the plate when I took this picture) When was the last time anyone out there had mutton? Like most everyone in the English-speaking world, at least of my age or younger, I’ve only heard about mutton when it was being reviled as unfit for a proper meal. …
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‘gilded hake’, sage, lemon, parsley, lovage; choy sum, garlic
I’ve prepared essentially this same meal a number of times before. Although there are always small variations among the secondary ingredients, if not in both the fish and the greens, I have no idea how one of those meals can end up as exceptionally delicious as the one I put together tonight. If I had to make a …
thyme-grilled quail, chutney; roasted squash, sage; kale
It was Little Thanksgiving, as in Little Christmas? Anyway it both looked and tasted like Thanksgiving, and it came with a lot less bother, and with almost no planning required. four partially-boned (a treat for both cook and diners) Plantation Quail, from Greensboro, Georgia, purchased at O. Ottomanelli & Sons Prime Meat Market on Bleecker Street, dried on paper …
fast food: carciofo ravioli, including the (small) kitchen sink
It was delicious, and it was whipped together in a few minutes, thanks to good store-bought ravioli and a few small treasures I was fortunate to find lying around the kitchen. It was the day after Thanksgiving, and something of a palate cleanser (as well as a cook cleanser). It was also entirely local, with the normal exceptions of olive …
smoked monkfish; hare; chipotle sweet potatoes, collards
It was a very long and leisurely Thanksgiving meal, shared with good friends. The star on the table was not a roast turkey, but a braised three-and-a-half-pound Scottish hare, which was, as the fish in the first course, quite wild (one of our guests found a buckshot in his serving). There were no cranberries, although there was chutney, sweet …
chervil, with eggs, bacon, and such
I wasn’t originally going to post this breakfast, since there was nothing special about it, but then I realized how seldom chervil appears on these pages – or anywhere for that matter, outside of France. It’s a subtle herb, and even more subtle as ‘micro chervil’. It’s also delicate in appearance; that and the combination …
costolette d’agnello a scottadito con inguazato; mizuma
Thursday’s meal started with some really luscious inguazato (basically a tomato couscous with capers, chilis, and green olives) left over from an earlier meal. We both thought that a grilled meat might give it a fresh take the second time around. Then I thought of a Roman dish that had always sounded intriguing, but had so far eluded me: lamb chops …
breakfast, more German than usual, on a Berlin schedule
It was our first weekend back in New York. Berlin was still in our heads and our hearts, so while our regular Sunday home routine meant bacon, eggs, and toasted bread, this time it was Spiegeleier, geräucherter Speck, und frisches Multikorn-Brot. But in a nod to our very local, New York tradition, there were also Habanada peppers, micro greens, …
smoked monkfish; Grano Arsopasta, allium, fennel, tomato
We often eat so late that I haven’t wanted to extend meals later than they already run with just one course. Still, I’ve been trying to fit in an appetizer course again, and on Tuesday it finally happened. I realize only as I write this, probably because there was so much else going on in this meal, that …
seared swordfish belly; castelfranco; tomatoes, oregano
Swordfish belly. It was beautiful, lying inside a tub on the ice. I had almost no idea what it was, or at least I didn’t know what if would taste like, or how I should cook it, but when I saw it at the fisherman’s stand in Union Square on Monday I wasn’t going to pass …