The mutton was delicious, but cook should have used a recipe more suited to its slightly idiosyncratic properties. The ribs were finished exactly as as I hoped they would be, that is, medium-rare, but they were very chewy. I don’t believe that had to follow from using either this of meat variety or this cut: I think a more enclosed or moist …
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duck sausage, toasted couscous, tomato, spices, sultanas
I had picked up the duck sausage at Hudson River Duck Farm in the Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesday, along with what has become a regular choice, one fresh duck breast. Both were part of what I had thought of as a catalog of the makings of good sturdy meals for the duration of our current cold snap. …
smoked pork chops in Weinkraut; cress; roasted radishes
We both agreed that this was absolutely the most delicious smoked pork we had ever had – in any form. I’d say it was almost entirely about the virtue of the supplier, Flying Pigs Farm, but I would also have to add that, over time, I’ve learned a little about how to best enjoy this …
cabbage; pigeon; chutney; potatoes; collards; cheese; port
It was the 25th of December. We don’t celebrate Christmas as such, but, as with other major Christian holidays from each of our youths, we observe the occasion with good food, good wine, and, whenever possible, good company. Last night we were only two. On these family days it’s often extremely difficult to get friends to join us for …
spaghetti, smoked eel, garlic, two chili sorts, pangrattato
It was the eve of Christmas, La Vigilia, in southern Italy, and in Italian-American families, Festa dei sette pesci, but as we’re neither Italian nor Catholic, I thought we could get away with just one fish last night. But it was a very special fish, and there was pasta too! one large cloves of Rocambole garlic from Keith’s …
lamb chop-tomato grill; roasted fennel, olives; fava greens
Because we had originally expected to be otherwise engaged for the evening, the plan was to improvise a simple pasta, but then the reason for doing so disappeared. At 7 o’clock it was still early enough to defrost something that would encourage me to do something with some vegetables I had that were still at their peak, so …
breakfast: eggs, bacon, sweet and hot pepper, herbs, toast
It was breakfast much as usual, but with fewer accoutrements today. We were hoping to get to Bushwick before sunset, so I was thinking that less would give us more [time in Brooklyn], so I skipped the alliums and tomatoes this time. the ingredients that did appear on our plates were half a dozen eggs from 2 local suppliers, …
grilled scallops, lovage; tomatoes, thyme; red-vein spinach
As usual here, all of the main actors ( and most of the supporting cast) were local, but by mid-December some of them are more difficult to assemble. The scallops don’t really have a season, but the tomatoes would clearly have not been able to make it without the help of some creative farming practices, and the very-late-season spinach was …
herbed breaded grilled swordfish; tomato; roasted broccoli
Stephanie Villani of Blue Moon Fish, the wife of the fisherman, Alex Villani, pointed me to the swordfish; I was immediately charmed by its appearance, even before she spoke of the merits of these particular steaks. Swordfish are classified as an oily fish, but they are also normally quite lean, which impacts its cooking and its tastiness. This one was …
breakfast – and lunch – with some favorite good things
It was both breakfast and lunch, and as I’m writing this at nearly nine o’clock that same day, Sunday, I’m only beginning to feel hungry now, after enjoying it 6 or 7 hours ago, our only meal of the day so far. It was also really, really tasty. * the ingredients included terrific rich eggs …