The main course was a vegetarian, even vegan feast, but there was some excellent prosciutto with some excellent lettuce in the antipasto. La Quercia ‘Ridgetop Prosciutto’ (2 ounces) from Whole Foods Market, drizzled with a bit of Frankies 457 Sicilian olive oil some delicious leaves from a small head of lettuce (I’ve now forgotten its name, …
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buffalo milk spaccatelli, scapes, celery, green plum tomato
It’s a fantastic pasta, not quite like any other I’ve ever tasted, and its texture, and rich neutral flavor almost beg a cook to come up with different ways to show it off (we’ve never repeated a meal using this wonderful local product, and a ‘search’ on this blog tells me we’re enjoyed it at least …
baked cod and tomato on roasted potatoes; purple mustard
This recipe, as described by Mark Bittman long ago, is really quite simple, but I have not always been able to leave it as I found it. This time I included small bits of 2 different seasoning peppers, an heirloom tomato, and a colorful micro green, and I eliminated the parsley. two cod fillets (19-ounces …
spice-rubbed quail; rosemary potatoes; treviso, balsamic
Even without an occasion, quail always seems like an occasion. a brace of pasture-raised certified organic quail from Abra Morawiec’s Feisty Acres Farm in Jamesport, Long Island, each weighing a little more than 8 ounces, rinsed, dried inside and out, the cavities seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, with one quarter of a gently squeezed organic …
peppers-roasted squid; grilled tomatoes, balsamic; arugula
This dinner may be almost the opposite of the one we enjoyed the day before. but, while It was more Mediterranean, and certainly lighter, in several ways, it was a meal of game. For all of their suggestion of undomesticated ruggedness, neither the pork chops nor the chestnuts represented the idea of ‘game’ as much …
lemon-roasted pork chop; braised chestnut; treviso, thyme
It started with two paper baskets of local foraged chestnuts, the very last remaining on the farmer’s table in the Union Square Greenmarket. I had hoped to find some kind of game, or game-ish bird which they might accompany on a cool autumn evening, but then we were away for 5 days, and since my …
seared striped bass, scape/celery sauce; roasted fingerling
When things go well in the kitchen. But not necessarily perfectly. It was a really delicious dinner, although it wasn’t quite the dinner I had intended. I thought it would end up looking more bright green than brown-green. I think I’ve pretty much gotten the crispy fish skin technique down, but now I have to …
penna rigata, scapes, tomato, sweet pepper, basil, pecorino
I think that simple assemblages of a good fresh or dry pasta and good ingredients, sometimes, but not necessarily always fresh ingredients, are among the most satisfying meals of all, in the preparation and in the eating, and this was one of the best. It’s the sort of meal that asks for no real skill, …
bresaola, arugula; mushroom ravioli, scapes, olives, pinoli
There really isn’t much reason to describe this meal in a Food Blog post, since I’ve assembled similar versions of each of these 2 courses so often in the past, but there are always differences, some subtle and some not, and they don’t always end up tasting as good as they did this time. The …
local shrimp with chipotle, saffron, cumin, fennel; okra, chili
Jumbo shrimp: It’s an archetypal oxymoron, but no less delicious for being a classic. There were also a lot of them this time, a bounty which would have been unlikely on our table had Jean Claude Frajmund not been offering them at a very good price on Saturday (he was in a hurry to close his …