Leftovers, but a very special kind of leftovers. Tonight we enjoyed a re-run of our New Year’s Day feast, absent the radicchio but present some good red cabbage, simply presented. about 16 ounces of the 24 ounces of smoked pork loin which remained from Sunday, reheated in the oven after being drizzled with the small amount …
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haddock, cress; Kassler Braten; horseradish potato; tardivo
Yesterday I tweeted that our New Years Day dinner would be “Germany with some Italian, and, as always, New York too”. I followed through later in the day, and this post describes what it looked like, as prepared for four. We began with bread sticks and a sparkling wine, to toast good friends and the new year …
Kassler, Lauch, Meerrettich; Quitte; Rüben; rote Rüben
A pretty glorious meal. I’m probably most comfortable with Italian-oriented cookery, and its modern emanations, but when I return to one of my earliest enthusiasms, German cooking (which began in the early-60s in Germany and was later encouraged by Mimi Sheraton and her 1965, ‘German Cookery’), both the ingredients and the process seem totally familiar, and the …
Kassler, spring onion, horseradish jelly; amaranth, turnips
We were back from Germany but a day or two, and I was already homesick for a German meal. Not quite echt German, what I put together was more like ‘creative German’. one young, or spring, red onion from Bodhitree Farm, white portion only (some of the better green leaves reserved), chopped and swirled around for a minute in …
Kassler, ramps, garlic-oregano jelly; cabbage; collards
We’re almost in German lands here. six or eight ramps from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, their white portions only (the green leaves reserved), chopped and swirled around for a minute in a small amount of equal parts of bacon fat, duck fat, and butter which had been heated inside an oval copper au gratin, two smoked loin pork chops [‘Kassler‘] from …
Kassler, ramps, horseradish jelly; green asparagus
This chop was every bit as juicy as it deserved to be, as juicy as it looks here. I haven’t always been able to accomplish that feat, and never before without immersing chops in a pot of cooked cabbage of some sort along with its liquid. Smoked pork chops and roasted asparagus [Grüner gebratener Spargel mit Kassler]: I can’t …
Kassler, Sauerkraut, Saltzkartoffeln; Riesling
This was a very German meal which warmed the kitchen, the breakfast room, and a pair of interested diners on a cold February night. two extraordinarily juicy smoked pork chops from Millport Dairy, seared briefly in a hot pan on both sides, buried in a pot of Sauerkraut (that is, a jar of drained and …
Kassler Rippchen and/in sauerkraut
dinner, 3/9/12 My ancient copy of Mimi Sheraton’s The German Cookbook comes to the table again: I had brought home two beautiful smoked pork chops (Kassler Rippchen) from John of Lancaster County’s Millport Dairy stall at the Union Square Greenmarket two days before, and the contents of our larder at home pointed me to how I should …
pink smoked pork loin; purple potatoes; green pole beans
Well, that headline was really unnecessary, but while the meal wasn’t about color, it wasn’t diminished by its richness (which, I have to admit, wasn’t entirely serendipitous). ‘Leftover Kasslerbraten‘. The unembellished words don’t begin to describe the awesomeness. We had begun feasting on this nearly 7-pound roast the first day of this year. We enjoyed its third, …
a faustian meal of slow braised goat, white turnips; collards
We do eat meat occasionally, but we don’t eat like this very often, and I definitely don’t cook like this very often. Roasts, stews, and long slow braises however do have their satisfactions, especially in colder realms in and colder months, like, well, parts of New York, this month. One of the other pleasures of …