‘Goat wings’, I’m calling them. They had started out great. But then they spent too much time in the oven. My estimate of the cooking time for slow-braised goat ribs was far more generous than it should have been (I was looking at a recipe for lamb, but I had goat (goats are pretty small, …
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red fife pasta, duck bacon, onion, cardoon, mint; cheese
Thinking about what might be the best way to use the extra, cardoons I had prepared but not used in this meal on Monday, the answer seemed simple: Pasta! I was concerned about the bitterness of the [thistle stems], as I mentioned in the post describing that meal; I suspected the pasta would dilute most, if not all of …
basil-stuffed scallops; habanada, scallions; purple mustard
Saturday was my first trip to the Union Square Greenmarket since the previous Monday. I celebrated by picking up some beautiful large scallops, giving them a kind of treatment, analogous but on a much simpler scale, to that Julia Child outlined in her version of ‘Tournedos Rossini’ (filet steaks with artichoke hearts, foie gras, truffles, and madeira sauce) …
flounder, sage, habanada, leek, beet; yellow beans, lovage
This flounder doesn’t look shy, but the colors of its coat betray only some of the complexity of the flavors it inherited from the garlic, herb and vegetables with which it shared a pan. I no longer use a the original version of this recipe for the treatment of white fish, one in which I’ve incorporated hake, cod, several flatfish …
grilled scallops; grilled tuna, fennel seeds, vetch; potatoes
Two seafood courses are a little unusual for us, but these were for cause. My fish dealer suggested I get something extra to go with the tuna steak I had just picked out, and, forgetting that a little tuna goes a long way, I yielded. I didn’t want to put them together, and when I remembered that …