I’m still not used to my forays with some of the finer kinds of white fish ending up as splendidly as lately they sometimes have. This was one of the very best. It all started in the Union Square Greenmarket, as always. That image is of only one of the 3 or 4 reservoirs of …
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local hemp pasta, shallot, oyster mushrooms, 2 chilis, sage
Just after midnight Tuesday I tweeted, aware of the possible ambiguity, “we had local mushrooms and hemp pasta tonight; now enjoying a little California rosé as a chaser, listening to @WilliamBasinski” (we had turned to the Basinski after the Vaňhal symphonies that had accompanied the meal itself). The reality had nothing to do with hallucinogenics, although there was …
côtes de veau braisé*; pommes de terre et chicorée rôties
Last night I returned to my ancient, well-thumbed and lightly-sauced 1966 edition of Julia Child’s, ‘Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1’ to help me decide what to do with a cut of meat I don’t think I have ever prepared before. The result was really delicious, although it was very different from my current …
grilled scallops, sautéed oyster mushrooms; wilted kale
The scallops were delicious (unless you really mess up, it’s almost inconceivable that scallops could not be delicious), but the mushrooms were really, really good. I can’t account for that success; I’ll have to leave it as one of the mysteries of non-mechanized cooking. [update: I just realized that, in reading my account, the last …
oregano-roasted squid; boiled potatoes, chives; lacinato
I must have appeared flummoxed. Warren said I should have the squid. The fisherman was right. We love squid [58 results show up on this blog], it had been a while since I’d served it, it was definitely very fresh. preparing it as I do is a pretty low key operation, and it was delicious. …
seared duck; mushroom marsala; roasted la ratte; cabbage
It seemed like a great excuse to modify what has long been my routine preparation of seared duck breast. I had some mushrooms left over from the night before, and combining them with the duck seemed like a fine idea. The execution however wasn’t perfect for either duck or mushrooms, nor for one of the …
haddock, oyster mushrooms with capsicum, lemon; greens
It was a beautiful balanced meal, beyond the picture, and it included a delicious real Chablis and a fascinating 100-year-old mystical opera that could have been written yesterday. The haddock was really fresh, and with more than a little luck, I managed to cook it perfectly; the mushrooms also ended up just right, that is, …
greek-style roast chicken, sorta; roasted potatoes, mustard
It was a pretty splendid entrée, even without the full Greek treatment it was supposed to get, meaning I didn’t have any feta cheese on hand. And without the feta, I felt I felt I would be excused for including an element I thought was not Greek, halved roasted potatoes, specifically the 4 orphan la …
sautéed grey sole with lemon, cress; roasted carrots; kale
These beautiful grey sole fillets came from Rick Lofstad’s Pura Vida Seafood, whose colorful 55′ fishing vessel, ‘All For Joy’ (which was presumably his flagship), had capsized on the Sunday before I purchased them at the Union Square Greenmarket on Friday. Earlier today on this blog I wrote about the incident and my huge respect for …
smoked fish pâté; baked cod on potato; purple kale; gelato
There were two guests, and two fishes, actually, more than two (fishes). We had friends to dinner and it was decided that seafood should dominate the menu, partly because we figured most New Yorkers rarely cook fish at home, and I definitely do. The first course featured a salad (the fisherman himself calls it a …