I think of the fairly simple pasta courses I scatter between more serious or composed meat and fish entrées as something like ‘intervals’ between acts, but they’re usually at least as satisfying as what would normally be called more main event dinners. As this one was. There was also a simple antipasto this time. five …
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steak, savory; mushrooms, spruce tips; broccolini (3 allium)
It was Barry‘s birthday, so the meal would have to be special (for me, they’re all special, if only for the wonderful company, but some ingredients may be more special than others). Because it was a Saturday night, when so many New Yorkers are searching for the right dinner table, we thought ‘special’ and right …
soft shell crab; spring garlic cucumber sauté, mint; tomato
It was the eve of Barry’s birthday, so it had to be special! I had great luck in the Greenmarket that afternoon, and because the fish seller had a huge supply, they were marked down in price. The reader doesn’t have to be told how I transitioned 4 very alive local blue crabs (callinectes sapidus) onto our …
marinated goat ribs; roasted potatoes; asparagus, ramps
‘ribs’ I grew up in the upper Midwest, where I’m pretty sure the practice of cooking outdoors on a real fire was called a cookout, at least it was way back then. A barbeque, or more often, bar-b-q, was something cowboys had, or at least something that happened in the Southwest. To me it was certainly …
roasted monkfish, potatoes, bay, olives; fava greens, mint
It’s one of our favorite dishes. Last night I tweeted that it was the definition of savory. I think the pictures show us why. The one below is of the potatoes just before they went into the oven, preceding the black olives and the monkfish by 20 minutes or so. twelve or 14 ounces of …
swordfish, roasted tomatoes, kale, cake/ice cream/rhubarb
The meal was designed for guests: We were entertaining two new friends visiting from Berlin, so new that we had never met them before (they were good friends of good friends), and I hoped to not be distracted from conversation. We enjoyed snacks (breadsticks and taralli from Buon Italia) and a sparkling wine before the …
orecchiette, guanciale, felce, porri selvatici, parmigiano
There was a time when I used guanciale much more often than I do now, and sure enough, there it was when I looked on my own blog to see what I’d done in the past with fiddleheads in pasta. That post, and that meal, was from 3 years back. Today I’d say that cured pork …
marinated dolphin; potato, garlic mustard; herbed tomato
They were the last 2 dolphin fillets at the fisherman’s stand yesterday, and just the right size for the two of us. I would go home with them of course, not just because they’re so scarce, on that day, sure, but in the local market generally, but because we love this fish. Some people might …
rigatone, spring garlic, fiddleheads, chestnut mushrooms
I had all this spring stuff, and I thought I shouldn’t really let it just lie around any longer, so I found a way to put it all together with some great pasta. six or 7 ounces of fiddlehead ferns from Tamarack Hollow Farm, washed vigorously in several changes of water until the brown chaff …
grilled merlot steak, ramp butter; roasted fingerlings; rabe
I’ve definitely never cooked a merlot steak, and now after engaging it one on one, I can’t remember whether I had even heard of it before last Saturday. We’d just left an art fair that afternoon, when I realized that while we would be guests at a dinner that evening, we hadn’t yet decided what …