(the image was shot before its rich spicy self sauce was added to the lamb) The little roast had been marinated with a rub of toasted cumin seed and [the equivalent of] two different chile powders, so the sauce for this partial lamb shank, once it had been produced, was unbelievably rich and complex. When I …
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speck, kale micro greens; saffron risotto with parmesan
The cold kept the fish out of the Greenmarket on Monday, so I had to come up with an alternative for dinner. I didn’t want it to be meat or a pasta, both of which we had enjoyed very recently, so I turned to a couple old favorites, salumi and risotto, to be served in succeeding courses. …
braised sweetbreads; roasted carrots; sautéed cabbage
I thought it would be so easy to come up with a rather simple modern recipe for sweetbreads, but I was surprised at how few resources there were, and none of those I found looked interesting, or as uncomplicated as I wanted, at least in the time I had allotted myself. Apparently these innards themselves haven’t been …
pasta e ceci (garlic, anchovy, tomato, rosemary, chickpea)
I’ve assembled this dish once before. That will happen sometimes, even consciously. I remembered liking it a lot. It was as good last night as it was the first time; maybe even better, since there were no leftovers this time. We skipped a cheese course, to savor the pasta more. It’s a rich-tasting primi or secondo, very Italian, and very simple to …
guinea hen, mustard and herbs, pan vegetables; collards
straight out of the oven, above, ‘carved’ and plated, below I’d cooked Guinea fowl only once before since starting this blog 8 years ago, although I think I may have prepared it at least once before then, in the darker ages. In recent years I’ve rarely served any form of chicken at home, and when I do …
venison, sauce poivrade; roasted carrots; brussels sprouts
very happy with this meal Holidays and weekends shouldn’t be the only occasions for special meals, and besides, what’s ‘special’ when you’re trying to do your best all the time? Still, I have to admit that this was pretty special, and while I served it on an ‘ordinary’ Monday, that wasn’t my original intention. …
cod; squab, juniper, grapes; sweet potato; collards; struffoli
it seems Barry couldn’t wait to start, but it had been some time since lunch It was the 25th of December, and so it was an almost perfect excuse for a feast. 3 ounces of smoked wild Alaskan black cod (sable) from Blue Hill Bay Smoked Seafood, via The Lobster Place, brought to room …
lamb tongue and tomato salsa; fennel; collards
I made such a fuss ahead of time on Twitter yesterday about an “offal dinner” that I may have tempted fate. The completed meal was good, but I knew it wasn’t really great. I think that except for the unfamiliarity of the meat itself, at least for most people, the finished lambs tongues weren’t quite worthy of the excitement. I know I can do …
wild salmon with herbs; kale; after pasta e ceci
This will be the last entry until the middle of the week. Barry and I are going to be in Philadelphia for two days, so I’m going to get to eat out! For tonight’s secundi, we shared part of a wild salmon fillet, and a bunch of not-so-wild kale. wild Coho salmon fillet from Whole Foods, roasted …
cabbage, fennel, radicchio, Guinea Hen, gorgonzola
This past Saturday I noticed a smallish glass container on the middle shelf of the refrigerator: The meat leftovers for the meal of Guinea fowl! I wasn’t really worried about the time it had spent on the shelf, especially since it was very well sealed, and it looked very fresh. I tasted it nevertheless; it was really delicious. …