The gray sole, whose name is almost always spelled elsewhere in the English-speaking world, ‘grey sole’, is a beautiful fish, delicate and mild in flavor. “It’s barely even fish” is a description I just came across on a site advising people new to cooking or eating fish. It also had a very gentle, I’ll even say ‘perfect’, texture …
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sülze; gemüsesuppe [headcheese; vegetable soup]
It was a very German meal, for no particular reason. Thinking about it retroactively however, I could say there was the relationship between the date (the eve of an installation of a proto-fascist regime in Washington) and the historical memory which recalls the food culture of the nation which was the last one to pass over that line. It …
paprika-rubbed braised goat; sweet/sour parsnips; mizuna
It was a Sunday dinner, but only remotely related to the kind Mom served in our midwestern dining room in the middle of the last century. I’ve liked preparing and have enjoyed eating goat in the past, although it hadn’t shown up on our table in a year. Then, a couple weeks ago, on a visit to the …
this time it was late enough to be called lunch
We were later in rising than usual today, so we couldn’t disguise the event this time: breakfast-cum-lunch had simply become lunch by the time we sat down. eggs from truly pastured chickens, and thick bacon from Millport Dairy Farm, Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods, toast from loaves of a Balthazar sourdough rye from …
Kassler, Lauch, Meerrettich; Quitte; Rüben; rote Rüben
A pretty glorious meal. I’m probably most comfortable with Italian-oriented cookery, and its modern emanations, but when I return to one of my earliest enthusiasms, German cooking (which began in the early-60s in Germany and was later encouraged by Mimi Sheraton and her 1965, ‘German Cookery’), both the ingredients and the process seem totally familiar, and the …
spinaci ravioli, garlic, cool habanero, tomato, pinoli, lovage
I’ve finally found a seasoning pepper I will actually be able to spend some money on. Each year I’m amazed (well, overwhelmed) by the huge variety and numbers of hot peppers displayed by Greenmarket farmers, a bounty which begins in mid-summer and continues until the frost. While I bring them home regularly, it’s normally in very …
steak, micro radish; rabe; oregano-baked cherry tomatoes
We owe a good part of the two meals we enjoyed on Sunday, the proteins in particular, to the Plain People of eastern Pennsylvania, and, specifically, John Stoltzfoos and his family who operate Millport Dairy Farm in Lancaster County. The day had begun with a breakfast which included both their eggs and their bacon. The …
green eggs and ham (bacon, here), and an absent father
I thought of my father as we sat down to breakfast today. Although his given names were Clarence Henry, everyone outside of his huge family, which knew him as Clarence, called him ‘Wags’. He loved bacon and eggs, generally preferring them raw, whipped and sprinkled with salt and pepper (at least at home). He had grown up on …
mustard & honey-glazed wild salmon; wild nettles; wild rice
It was wild. The meal was almost entirely wild, and if I had used the wild garlic or ramps I had in the crisper rather than the cultivated spring garlic, it would have been even more so. The simple recipe for the salmon came from Sam Sifton, in the New York Times. Incidentally, while preparing the greens in …
pasta e Ceci with foraged garlic mustard greens
We’ve already enjoyed the basic recipe for this luscious pasta twice. But I’ve never before had the privilege of welcoming foraged garlic mustard greens into my kitchen; last night this dish became the medium. I decided to mix most of them into the pasta at the very end of the cooking, and sprinkle a few of the most tender shoots on the …