Author: james

dinner, March 28, 2010

Bosc_pears_Migliorelli_Farms

dinner, March 27, 2010

cavalo_nero_young_Norwich_Farms

This meal wouldn’t have begun as it did if I hadn’t spotted those fava beans.

While shopping at Buon Italia this afternoon I happened to see two or three still-unopened bright green pods on plates lying on the wooden dining table near the back of the store.  This was the corner where the owner’s own family and workers take their mid-day meal.   Along with half a loaf of one of those familiar Italian Easter breads with the embedded eggs, the fava were among the remains of what appeared to have been a beautiful seasonal lunch just ended.   I assumed the beans had come from the large greengrocer across the hall, and immediately headed over there to find out.

Every year at the greenmarket I discover I’ve somehow missed out on the earliest tender beans (which require no cooking) and I have to resign myself to the long preparation process needed to enjoy the pleasures of this ancient legume.  This spring it may look like I’ve finally gotten ahead of the game, but I think the folks who bring our local bounty to Union Square will still be keeping the youngest, tenderest stock all for themselves.

dinner, March 24, 2010

scallops_Blue_Moon_Fish

dinner, March 22, 2010

parsnips_Windfall_Farms

This was the last dinner to include any ingredients from the modest cache of fish, meat and vegetables I brought home from the Greenmarket last Wednesday.  I planned the meals in an order related to the perishability of the individual parts of the larder I had gathered that day.  On Monday I had finally gotten to the parsnips, and they were definitely the sweetest roots I’d ever tasted:  New England candy.

  • pork chops from deBreton in Quebec, purchased at Garden of Eden, seared, then oven-roasted with lemon, covered with pieces of torn radicchio minutes before being removed from the oven;  accompanied by roasted parsnips (fresh-dug, overwintered, from Windfall Farms at the Greenmarket) sprinkled with cut parsley
  • wine:  Willm Pinot Gris 2008 Vin d’Alsace from Phillipe Wine
  • two Basque cheeses, Garroxta from Spain and Petite Basque from France, accompanied by slices of Ciabatta from Sullivan Street Bakery, everything purchased at Garden of Eden
  • Turkish figs and almonds
  • wine with the last two courses:  Cossart Gordon Rainwater Madeira

dinner, March 21, 2010

Gold_Ball_turnips_Windfall

It may be difficult to assemble a meal from a “greenmarket” at this time of year, but it’s not impossible.  All of the major ingredients of the main course of this dinner were purchased in Union Square last Wednesday, March 17.

dinner, March 19, 2010

Adirondack_Blue_potatoes_Windfall_Farms

  • chargrilled quail, “natural and drug-free” (love that), from Georgia’s Plantation Quail and purchased at Garden of Eden, marinated in oil, rosemary, thin slices of lemon, red onion and garlic, the recipe from “Angela Hartnett’s Cucina” ; accompanied by rosemary-roasted Adirondack Blue potatoes from the Union Square Greenmarket; and a salad of torn purple-leaf lettuce and radicchio, both from Garden of Eden, tossed with good olive oil and a Chardonnay wine vinegar
  • dried Turkish figs from Garden of Eden
  • wine:  Barolo, Terre di Bo 2005, the gift of a friend

dinner, March 1, 2010

Keuka_Golds_Healthway_Farm


  • Roberto’s grissini
  • pan-grilled young goat loin chops (purchased from Uphill Farm, in Clinton Corners, New York, at the Union Square Greenmarket) which had been marinated an hour or so in a tempranillo wine, with chopped garlic, rosemary, bay leaf and peppercorns, and finished with drops of lemon, oil and chopped parsley; accompanied by oven-roasted potato chips (very-thin-sliced Keuka Gold, from Ulster County’s Healthway Farms, at the Union Square Greenmarket – the image above indicates I arrived late in the day);   and thin spears of California asparagus from Garden of Eden, baked at 450 degrees in one layer, with a sprinkling of oil and some salt and pepper, for 8-10 minutes, as suggested at least several years ago in a food column in Newsday by Erica Marcus (she’s one of my favorite things about the paper)
  • dried Turkish figs
  • wine:  red, from Roussillon,  Le Vignes de Bila-Haut, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2008, M. Chapoutier, from K & D wines

dinner, January 1, 2010

Brussels_sprouts_Van_Houten_Farms

I had originally planned a slightly more extensive meal for New Year’s Day, one which would have begun with a terrific-looking and sounding terrine of game, pink peppercorns and ginger.  I had purchased it at the Dickson’s Farmstand Meats in Chelsea Market the same afternoon I picked up their rolled lamb belly, which was also the day I spotted the chartreuse holiday lights across the street from the Market.

As it happened, and with some irony, once I was back home I became engaged in writing the previous dinner post and wasn’t watching the clock.   I remembered to put the miniature roast into a medium oven, but before I knew it I realized there was only enough time to prepare the vegetables which were to accompany it.  We wouldn’t be sitting down to a first course.  We’ll have the terrine tonight instead.

With the exception of the Auslese and the espresso, last night’s meal was entirely French-inspired;   in fact I confess I was gently guided by Julia Child and her collaborators.

  • roasted boned and rolled lamb belly which had been painted hours before with a mix of dijon mustard, soy sauce, mashed garlic, ground cardamom and oil;   garnished with torn dandelion leaves originally intended to lie with the terrine; accompanied by Pommes de terre sautées au beurre, or potatoes sauteed in butter;  and Choux de Bruxelles étuvés au beurre, or Brussels sprouts braised in butter [the small white potatoes from Garden of Eden; the sprouts from Marlow & Daughters]*
  • espresso cafe

* although the image shown above is actually of an earlier purchase (December 16) from Van Houten Farms at the Union Square Greenmarket

dinner, December 31, 2009

Alvin_Langdon_Coburn_Octopus_Metropolitan

Alvin Langdon Coburn The Octopus 1912

[image from the Metropolitan Museum]

dinner, December 26, 2009

spaghetti_aglio-olio_peperoncino_2

Something in the way of a palate cleanser, and kitchen-pressure release valve as well:  Tonight, after a couple of days of feasting, it was back to basics, as we enjoyed an extremely simple, southern Italian meal, one with whose honest outlines we’re both very familiar.  In an odd exception from meals we’ve enjoyed over the past six to eight months, this time absolutely nothing came from the Union Square Greenmarket.

I’d already cooked the pasta when it first occurred to me to post about the meal, so in the accompanying image the spaghetti is instead represented by the beautiful label on the front of its box.