It was a warm evening.

The first course never got anywhere near a stove.

I was very fortunate in the greens I had been able to bring home from Union Square on Friday: They were a perfect, spicy foil to the headiness of the smoky pork.

None of the elements of the second course spent more than a few minutes on the top of the range.

I had constructed the meal around the second course, a beautiful piece of fresh wild salmon that I was determined to cook without using the oven, and the rest of the meal had to go with the same proviso. Fortunately there were no taste sacrifices anywhere along the line.

• thinly-sliced Alto Adige Speck from Eataly, each piece rolled around the tines of a fork and put on a plate, drizzled with some very good olive oil from Campania, accompanied by a handful of semi-wild flowering cress from Lucky Dog Organic Farm dressed with the same oil, a little white balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper
• slices of a She Wolf Bakery sourdough baguette

 

• the salmon was prepared in a manner slightly modified from this interesting Melissa Clark recipe, using one fresh wild 14-ounce sockeye salmon fillet from Whole Foods, marinated in the refrigerator in a covered dish for about 4 hours while coated on both sides with a mix of light brown turbinado sugar, sea salt, freshly ground tellicherry pepper, freshly ground allspice, freshly ground nutmeg, and the zest of half of an organic lemon from Whole Foods, after which the fish was rinsed, patted dry, brought to room temperature, oiled generously, and cooked on an enameled grill pan, flesh side down, removed, dusted with dried Pollen Ranch Dill Pollen, sprinkled with chopped fresh dill from from Bodhitree Farm, drizzled with olive oil and served with lemon wedges, organic, from Whole Foods
• two Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods, sliced, mixed with olive oil, salt, pepper, and chopped basil from Tamarack Hollow Farm
• flat green pole beans from Norwich Meadows Farm, blanched, drained and dried, then reheated in oil, mixed with chopped red-tinged Japanese scallions from Norwich Meadows Farm, and finished with salt, pepper, and chopped lovage from Bodhitree Farm

There were cherries, from Kernan Farms.

• the wine was a California (Lodi) rosé, Karen Birmingham Rosé Lodi 2015
• the music was Q2 Music, streaming

I think I’m finally beginning to understand swordfish, at least on an epicurean level. This was one of my most successful outings with this noble fish.

• two 6 1/2-ounce swordfish steaks from Pura Vida Seafood, in the Union Square Greenmarket, marinated for less than a half hour in a mixture of olive oil, a very small amount of dried Itria-Sirissi chili, peperoncino di Sardegna intero from Buon Italia, chopped fresh wild mint from Berried Treasures Farm, and much of a finely-chopped stem of a red-tinged Japanese scallion from Norwich Meadows Farm, after which it was drained well, covered with a coating which was a mix of dried homemade bread crumbs, then pan-grilled over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, sprinkled with a little organic lemon juice from Whole Foods, a little more scallion, and drizzled with olive oil before serving
• halved and seasoned San Marzano tomatoes from Stokes Farm, pan-grilled and finished with a dab of olive oil and a bit of balsamic vinegar
• a little puntarelle from Paffenroth Gardens, prepared in the Roman manner
• the wine was a French (Aude) white, Laurent Miquel Albarino Lagrasse France 2014
• the music was Q2 Music streaming, notably Fred Lerdahl’s String Quartet No. 3

I still can’t say enough about how delicious these crab cakes are, and how much fun it is to assemble a base for them, usually some kind of salsa. They also require very little heat to prepare, and the puntarelle doesn’t ask for any, which means this entire entrée was particularly welcome on an evening when our breakfast room air conditioner wasn’t working.

The cherries were, well, a bowl of cherries.

• two crab cakes from PE & DD Seafood (the ingredients are crab, egg, flour, red & green peppers, garlic, salt, pepper, breadcrumbs, mayonnaise, milk, celery, and parsley), heated in a heavy copper pan, 3 to 4 minutes to each side, served on a salsa composed of 6 Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods, which had been chopped and combined with salt, freshly-ground black pepper, a bit of homemade French Basque piment d’Espellate we had purchased in a small town north of Baie-Comeau, Quebec last year from the producer’s daughter, some dried Itria-Sirissi chili, peperoncino di Sardegna intero from Buon Italia, chopped wild mint from Berried Treasures, a section of the stem of a Japanese scallion from Norwich Meadows Farm, chopped, and wild arugula from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, and, when all was plated, the small amount of juices left at the bottom of the bowl of salsa drizzled on top of the crab cakes
• puntarelle from Paffenroth Gardens, prepared in the Roman manner
• sweet cherries from Kernan Farms
• the wine was a California (Lodi) white, Karen Birmingham Sauvignon Blanc Lodi 2015
• the music was Philip Blackburn’s ‘Ghostly Psalms’

This rather French (yay France!) preparation for flounder turned out better than ever tonight, and I’ve worked it many times before; the vegetables were equally delicious.

• four flounder fillets (3-ounce or more each) from Blue Moon Seafood, sautéed in olive oil and butter over high heat until golden brown (2-3 minutes on the first side, 1-2 minutes on the other, served with a tomato butter composed a little earlier by melting some ‘Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter‘ and adding one chopped shallot from John D. Madura farm, cooking it until softened and fragrant, removed from the heat, allowed to cool for 2 or 3 minutes, then tossed with half a dozen sliced Backyard Farms Maine ‘cocktail tomatoes’ from Whole Foods, seasoned with salt, some chopped fresh lovage from Bodhitree Farm, and a few drops of red wine (Chianti) vinegar
• fresh English peas from Eckerton Hill Farm, shelled, boiled briefly in salted water, drained, transferred to another pan and dried over low heat, stirred with butter, a pinch of sugar, sea salt, and freshly-ground Telicherry pepper, served with chopped wild mint from Berried Treasures
• the wine was a French (Anjou) white, Château Soucherie Coteaux Du Layon Vendange à La Main 2014
• the music was Counterstream radio, streaming

This dish was even better than I had imagined it would be. The whole exceeded the parts, even though all of the ingredients were already stars at the start, as far as I was concerned; when they got together, they totally outdid themselves.

It was also a very easy meal to prepare, produced little more heat in the kitchen than what was needed to boil the water, and it came together very quickly.

I came across the basic recipe while searching on line for something to do with garlic scapes and pasta (maybe I was too mentally lazy to go it alone, but I’m also always hoping for a surprise when I search the internet). I substituted a great penne for the spaghetti specified, and, simply because I could, I added an herb, lovage to be precise.

Note, and an admission: I neglected to add salt and pepper to the mix, somehow not noticing that both were mentioned in the recipe, and thinking it was purposeful, because of the amount of lemon included. I will add both the next time I visit this super recipe, but I have to say, neither of us missed them their punch this time.

• Setaro Penne Rigatoni, from Buon Italia, about 10 ounces, served with a simple fresh sauce which began with 3 minced cloves of garlic from Trader Joe’s and 2 cups of tender garlic scapes from Alewife Farm, cut into 2-inch lengths, sautéed in olive oil for 3-4 minutes, then a little butter and most of the juice of one organic lemon from Whole Foods added to the pan, the drained pasta added once the butter had melted, along with zest from most of one lemon, the mix stirred over low heat, during which time some reserved cooking water was added to help emulsify it, finally seasoned with salt and pepper, and some chopped lovage from Bodhitree Farm added
• the wine was an Oregon (vineyards across the state) white, A to Z Oregon Pinot Gris 2014
• the music was Q2 Music, streaming

 

This is a wonderful dish. On Monday night it started out as one which was pretty much a product of necessity, or at least of wanting to make space in the larder. Happy chance.

I had a little cavolo nero, and a couple young red onions for which I didn’t have any specific plans, there was a piece of Parmesan cheese I didn’t want to grow old, and of course I always have some good pasta, and every other staple which would be needed for a dish in which it would be featured.

The recipe is from Jamie Oliver; I halved the amounts for the 2 of us. My “liquidiser” was an ancient Osterizer.

I used 8 ounces of Afeltra spaghetto, from Eataly, but of course the fresh ingredients were very local. Instead of a leek, I used two small red-tinged Japanese scallions from Norwich Meadows Farm, the cavalo nero was from Eckerton Hill Farm, organic garlic was from Trader Joe’s, and the cheese was Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse from Buon Italia.

• the wine was an Italian (Sardinia) white, La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna 2014
• the music was Q2 Music, streaming, including ‘Stumble to Grace’, by Steven Mackey

I thought of my father as we sat down to breakfast today.

Although his given names were Clarence Henry, everyone outside of his huge family, which knew him as Clarence, called him ‘Wags’.  He loved bacon and eggs, generally preferring them raw, whipped and sprinkled with salt and pepper (at least at home). He had grown up on a large dairy farm in Wisconsin among 14 siblings, and there were often others who had been taken in by his parents. We always imagined he had decided early on that he didn’t want to wait for cooked eggs to arrive at the table, but that was only a guess.

Family and friends in need were his priorities.  He arranged his life to share breakfast, lunch (driving home from the office), and dinner with us every day until the one on which he died in 1958, at 51.

Clarence would have turned 110 this year.

I would like to think he would have been pleased by the meal (this one of cooked eggs) which we enjoyed today while thinking of him.  Because we ate at what would be lunch time for decent folks, he would probably have taken a short nap afterward, as he did every day after the midday meal.

 

looking into the gardens, from the breakfast room

 

• four thick slices of bacon from Millport Dairy Farm, very slowly fried in a large, seasoned cast iron pan, then drained on paper towels
• a section of one stem from a young red onion from Bodhitree Farm, thinly-sliced, lightly-sautéed in the fat rendered by the bacon, plus a tablespoon or so of ‘Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter‘, then 6 Araucana chicken eggs, also from Millport Dairy Farm, added to the pan fried gently until the whites were barely opaque, sprinkled near the end with sea salt, freshly-ground Telicherry pepper, chopped lovage from Bodhitree Farm and chopped summer savory from Stokes Farm
• wild arugula from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, washed, rinsed, dried under a gooseneck lamp on the kitchen counter (my normal techinque), dressed only with some really excellent Campania olive oil, Syrenum D.O.P. Penisola Sorrentina, sea salt, and freshly-ground Telicherry pepper
• toasts from She Wolf Bakery’s polenta sourdough bread

When I saw ‘Mahi-mahi‘ posted on the board of Paul’s stand in the Greenmarket I immediately knew what we were going to have for dinner.  When it came to my turn in line, I stepped right up and asked for ‘Dolphin’.  Paul registered a little mock horror, since there were probably people within earshot of my voice, and even today many associate the word, ‘dolphin’ with Flipper.

I had already come to appreciate the flavor of this fish, and last night it was pretty extraordinary, with flavors and textures far more complex than I had reason to expect, and yet still retaining the character of the fish itself.  To the skeptical:  No, all white-flesh fish do not taste the same.

Also, and not at all incidentally, the Greenmarket vegetables were totally up to the challenge of accompanying a good fish.

 

 

• one Dolphin fillet, about 13 ounces, from Pura Vida Fisheries, dry-marinated with more than half a tablespoon of organic lemon zest, an equal amount of chopped thyme leaves from Bodhitree Farm, salt, and pepper, set aside for 20 minutes or so, after which it was seared in a hot copper fish pan for about 3 minutes, skin side up, then turned over and that side seared for the same length of time, the heat lowered and the pan loosely covered for a very few minutes with aluminum foil, during which time some thin-ish slices of stems one stem of a young red onion from Bodhitree Farm were introduced and briefly sautéed with the fish before it itself was divided into 2 pieces, removed and put onto plates, alliums and pan juices poured over the top
• small organic Butterball potatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm boiled in salted water until just tender, drained, halved, dried in the pan, rolled in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, some chopped lovage added before they were served (I added more after taking the picture above)
• small ‘Royal Snow Peas’ from Alewife Farm, the stems removed, sautéed in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, sprinkled with chopped summer savory from Stokes Farm
• the wine was an Oregon (Willamette) white, Montinore Estate Pinot Gris 2015
• the music was Q2 Music, streaming

I was ready for a very simple pasta dish. I had bought some fresh summer savory the day before and I was perfectly willing to leave it at that, as an excellent artisanal pasta dressed with oil, good dried pepper, and that pungent seasonal herb.

I hadn’t expected there might be some tuna left over from the meal the night before, but the coincidence was responsible for an inspired (well, more like serendipitous) entrée.  The fish was not fully cooked in the center, so, in order to preserve and appreciate its delicate freshness, I sliced the little 2-ounce chunk of fillet very thinly and added it to the zito only after the sauced pasta had been divided into the 2 bowls.

• ten ounces of Afeltra Zito Corto Rigato, cooked al dente, drained and tossed into a heavy pan in which one sliced/chopped young red onion from Bodhitree Farm had been sautéed in a little olive oil until softened, a teaspoon or so of dried Itria-Sirissi chilis, peperoncino di Sardegna intero from Buon Italia stirred in, then, the pasta still in the pan, some of its cooking water added and stirred until emulsified, finally some chopped summer savory from Stokes Farm mixed in and the pasta transferred to 2 bowls, where it was scattered with thinly-sliced pieces of pan-grilled tuna remaining from a meal prepared the night before, and a little olive oil poured over the top
• the wine was a Spanish (Rioja) white, Sierra Cantabria 2015
• the music was Yle streaming

A dear friend I’d known for almost 60 years was visiting New York from Miami Beach this week. We had originally planned to go out to dinner, but then I thought, while he had strayed south a number of years ago, he knows this city very well, having moved here directly after college; he might actually prefer a meal at our apartment, if only for an expanded opportunity for the extended conversation we were all looking forward to.

The only other consideration was whether I could put together something which would not divert me from that conversation, and yet would still be delicious (and at least a little special). The meal we would share with an old friend had to be something of an old friend itself.

The plan moved toward execution when I was able to locate three beautiful tuna steaks on my visit to the Union Square Greenmarket that morning. Each of the 4 courses I decided to serve (in the end there were only 3) was familiar to Barry and myself, and last night they almost assembled themselves (the symposium itself is all I can remember today).

I can recommend the basic outlines of this meal to anyone with similar entertainment considerations. Unfortunately I had to go with 8-ounce pieces of tuna, because that is what was available yesterday, but steaks of 5 or 6 ounces each would be a very reasonable, abstemious option.

Many of the elements in each of the three courses was of local origin, although in the case of the Speck, ‘local’ meant only that it was produced in this country, not northern Italy.

• La Quercia Speck Americano, described as ‘applewood-smoked prosciuto’ (3 ounces), from Whole Foods, drizzled with a little bit of good Umbrian olive oil (Luciana Cerbini Casa Gola) from Buon Italia, served with wild arugula from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, and slices of a polenta sourdough from She Wolf Bakery
• the wine was a California (Napa) sparkling white, Keith Hock Exit 43 California Bollicine in Bianco 2014

 

• three half-pound tuna steaks from Blue Moon Fish Company, rubbed top and bottom with a mixture of dry Italian fennel seed and one and a half dried Itria-Sirissi chilis, peperoncino di Sardegna intero from Buon Italia, ground together in a mortar-and-pestle, additionally seasoned with salt and pepper, then pan-grilled for only a little more than a minute or so on each side, finished with a good squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil
• cavolo nero, lacinato, or black kale, from from Eckerton Hill Farm, wilted in a little olive oil in which several bruised organic garlic cloves from Trader Joe’s had first been heated/sweated in the oil
• the wines were an Italian (Tuscany) rosé, Il Rose di Casanova 2015; and a French (Ventoux) rosé, Domaine de la Verrière Rosé 2015
• the music was our conversation, and the birds in the garden

I was prepared to serve a cheese course of five local (Consider Bardwell) cheeses and thin polenta sourdough toasts, but we moved straight into sharing a basket of sweet cherries from Kernan Farms.