Two different kinds of mushrooms in two 3 days is something of a record on our table. I would be using these magic fungi more often, but I’m not yet used to thinking of how they might go with other parts of the meals I put together.  When I can, and I see some beautiful mushrooms in front of me, I happy to take them home.

But his time the mushrooms came first; I came up with the rest of the dinner much later.

• twelve ounces of Rana fresh whole wheat tagliatelle, purchased from their very beautiful pasta station in Chelsea Market only an hour before, served with a sauce using blue oyster mushrooms from Blue Oyster Cultivation in the Greenmarket (see the image below), prepared pretty much according to this simple recipe, halved, but adding 2 elements to it: one chopped fresh habanada pepper just after the cream was introduced, and purple micro radish from Windfall Farms; the source of the other ingredients were red onion (instead of the yellow specified) from Norwich Meadows Farm, garlic cloves from S. & S.O. Produce Farms, parsley parsley from Norwich Meadows Farm, and pine nuts from Whole Foods (which I had first toasted gently in a dry cast iron pan)
• the wine was a Washington (Columbia) red, Katy Michaud Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2014 from our good friends, Naked Wines
• the music was Q2 Music, streaming, specifically Gregory Spears’s ‘Requiem’ 

halfway between the bay and our table: Taconic Bay scallops in Union Square

 

this plate looks far more interesting than it should

 

Everything tasted good, but the dish wasn’t as worthy as the ingredients themselves.

Whether it was my lack of familiarity with the star, Taconic Bay scallops (their season awaited all year long, and the virtually worshipped by their devotees), or the fact that I was too concerned about including too many of the fresh vegetables I already had on hand, this meal didn’t match our expectations. I had also worried at first that there might not be enough on the plates, so I expanded on the presence of both the scallops and the tomatoes.

Still, I think I learned a lot. One lesson would include trying, in the future, to keep these beautiful little mollusks as close to their raw unadorned state as possible, either by preparing them for ceviche (I didn’t have the time last night) or with virtually no processing and using little more than oil or butter, salt and pepper. I had tasted one at the market earlier in the day, raw, and it was extraordinary (the last time I had a raw scallop was 30 some years ago, when a friend and I, becalmed while sailing off Watch Hill, were offered some by a scallop fisherman raking the bottom of the sound near us).

• Ten ounces of chopped Taconic Bay scallops from P.E. & D.D. Seafood washed, dried, and sautéed over medium-high heat inside a heavy tin-lined copper pan in a tablespoon of so of butter, along with one thickly-slice garlic clove from S. & S.O. Produce Farms, sea salt, pepper, and a pinch of dulce Spanish paprika, stirring until the scallops had barely begun to color, and careful to avoid overcooking them, removed from the pan and set aside, kept warm in an oven at its lowest setting, the pan wiped with a paper towel, after which, 4 baby leeks from Tamarack Hollow Farm (sliced lengthwise, washed, and dried), were placed inside the pan with a little more butter and sautéed until they had softened, seasoned with sea salt and pepper, the leeks arranged on the plates in a circle with some chopped cucumber (see the next bullet) before the scallops, now removed from the oven, were arranged inside the wreath of vegetables, and once on the table, drizzled with juice from tiny local lemons (‘limonetta) from Fantastic Gardens of Long Island, and sprinkled with chopped parsley from Norwich Meadows Farm
• one Korean cucumber from Lani’s Farm, halved lengthwise and cut into bite-size pieces, sautéed in olive oil until beginning to brown, sesoned with salt and pepper, then set aside until the scallops had been cooked
• red and green late-season heirloom tomatoes sliced, dried, sprinkled with a little turbinado sugar, sautéed in a pan with a little olive oil until they had begun to soften and become fragrant, seasoned with salt and pepper, divided onto the plates, sprinkled with torn leaves form a Full Bloom Market Garden basil plant from Whole Foods, and finished with a little gremolata which had remained from an earlier meal and then frozen
• The wine was a California (grapes from the Sacramento River Delta with a small amount of Viognier from Lodi) white, Miriam Alexandra Chenin Blanc California 2015
• the music was the third act of Wagner’s ‘Die Walkure’, Herbert von Karajan conducting the Berlin Philharmonic in a 1966 DGG studio recording, with Jon Vickers, Gundula Janowitz, Thomas Stewart, Régine Crespin, Martti Talvela, Josephine Veasey, Liselotte Rebmann, Carlotta Ordassy, Ingrid Steger, Lilo Brockhaus, Danica Mastilovic, Barbro Ericson, Cvetka Ahlin, Helga Jenckel, et al.

Blewits. They’re foraged, so they are ‘game’, as far as I’m concerned. Not an everyday find. When I spotted them in the Union Square Greenmarket on Saturday I knew they were special, and that I had to have some, but I didn’t know what I was going to do with them. I only took about half of those seen in the picture above, so I wasn’t going to be able to stretch their goodness too far; I decided they would define a small pasta primi, and I knew just the one.

 

There were just enough to sauce a small portion of a good pasta, here a Sfoglini reginetti.

 

And then there was something closer to what most people understand as ‘game’ (or at least as close as Americans are allowed to come to eating ‘wild’).

I love quail. we both love quail.

For our secondo I defrosted 4 semi-boneless Georgia birds I had waiting in the freezer compartment, and roasted the last of a mostly-chicory bounty from Campo Rosso Farm that had been included in a ‘take home’ from a recent farm dinner at Untitled.

• two and a half ounces of foraged Blewits from Windfall Farms, chopped, sweated a bit, dry, inside a heavy tin-lined copper pan, before olive oil was added, a very small bit at a time, stirring, until the pan and mushrooms were moist with it, after which the Blewits were cooked until lightly golden brown, a very small amount of chopped shallot from S. & S.O. Produce Farms, a little sea salt, and chopped fresh sage from Phillips Farm after that, the mix cooked for a minute or so, deglazed/seasoned with drops of a good Spanish Rioja vinegar, and after the heat was turned off, softened butter added and stirred in until melted, 4 ounces of Sfoglini ‘Whole Grain Blend Reginetti’, cooked al dente, added to the pan, and tossed with the sauce, garnished with some more chopped sage
• slices of a delicious loaf of whole wheat sourdough miche from Bread Alone
• the wine was an Oregon (Rogue Valley) red, Foris Vineyards Rogue Valley Gewürztraminer Oregon 2014, from Chelsea Wine Vault

 

• four partially-boned (which is a treat for both cook and diners) Plantation Quail, from Greensboro, Georgia, purchased at O. Ottomanelli & Sons Prime Meat Market on Bleecker Street, dried on paper towels and rubbed with sea salt and most of one crumbled dried peperoncino from Buon Italia, placed breast side down over medium-high heat on a two-burner cast iron ribbed pan, a number of sprigs of fresh thyme from Keith’s Farm scattered over each, grilled for about 5 minutes, turned and, ensuring that they were now resting on top of the thyme, grilled for another 5 minutes, served with a drizzle of olive oil and a pat of the same composed butter served with the venison a few days before placed on top while they were still warm
• one medium head of radicchio from Campo Rosso Farm, quartered, 2 toothpicks stuck into each quarter to hold its shape, placed in a medium unglazed ceramic oven pan (Pampered Chef, already well-seasoned long ago), drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper, roasted at 400º for about 15 minutes, turning once, finished with a small amount of balsamic vinegar, and, once on the 2 plates, scattered with shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse from Buon Italia
• the wine was an Italian (Puglia) red, Schola Sarmenti Roccamora 2013, our last bottle from our wonderful former neighbors of Appellation Wines, which was forced to close when their rent skyrocketed, and was unable to relocate a few blocks north because the State Liquor Authority ruled that another wine store in the area was not in the public interest

 

• the music throughout was Jordi Savall’s album, ‘Granada 1013-1502‘, recorded in 2013 and produced earlier this year

I try to bring some variety to my basic Sunday breakfast-lunch foumula of eggs, bacon, and toast. This time I may have brought more to the table than ever before.

• there were 6 eggs and 2 slices of thick bacon from Millport Dairy Farm; toast from 2 different bakers, ‘8 Grain 3 Seed’ bread from Rock Hill Bakery, Gansevoort, NY, and a whole wheat sourdough miche from Bread Alone, both selling in the Greenmarket; 3 small ‘tomato-red’ heirloom tomatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm; a bit of turbinado sugar for the late-season tomatoes; purple micro radish from Windfall Farms; smoked alderwood salt from The Filling Station; Baleine course sea salt; tellicherry pepper; 4 very, very hot tiny yellow chilis, Cumari do Para (they were the size of quite small peas), which I chopped very finely and immersed in olive oil, from Eckerton Hill Farm; green stems, chopped, of Japanese scallions; torn leaves of basil from a Full Bloom Market Garden plant from Whole Foods; part of a crushed, dark, dried heatless Habanada pepper from Norwich Meadows Farm; chopped lovage from Two Guys from Woodbridge; Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter; and olive oil (‘Trader Joe’s 100% Greek Kalamata Extra Virgin Olive oil’)
• the music was ‘Music for Queen Caroline’, an album of William Christie directing the Choir and Orchestra of Les Arts Florissants in 3 works Handel had dedicated to his patron, the Hohenzollern princess Caroline of Ansbach (later wife of George II of England), an enlightened and beloved patron of both the arts and sciences

The picture may be misleading. It actually represents 2 small sautéed skate wings touching each other on the plate, embracing some gently wilted mildly-peppery mizuna (aka shui cai, kyona, Japanese mustard, potherb mustard, Japanese greens, California peppergrass, or spider mustard).

L to R, the mizuna, plus mustard spinach and chinese mustard at the market

‘Bull’s Blood’ micro beet is the brilliantly-colored micro vegetable on the skate

(picked beet over these micro chard, mostly because the latter was so Xmas-y)

 

• four 4-ounce skate wings from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, coated all over with a coarse polenta seasoned with salt and pepper, sautéed in olive oil (and a bit of butter) for 3 minutes or so on each side inside a heavy enameled cast iron oven pan (the only difficult part of this recipe is turning them over without breaking them up), removed, about 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter, one small Japanese scallion from Norwich Meadows Farm, one tiny ‘red wing’ onion from Keith’s Farm, and 2 small cloves of garlic from from S. & S.O. Produce Farms, all sliced or chopped, introduced into it and stirred over a now-lowered flame, followed by the addition of a little more butter, the juice from half of a very sweet organic lemon from Whole Food Market some chopped marjoram from Stokes Farm and a bit of chopped parsley from Norwich Meadows Farm, stirring for a bit to blend everything, finishing on the plates with a scattering of ‘Bull’s Blood’ micro beet from Windfall Farm
• one bunch of purple mizuna from Gorzynski Ornery Farm, very slightly wilted in a pan in which a halved garlic clove S. & S.O. Produce Farms had first been allowed to barely begin to brown in a little olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and drizzled with a bit more oil
• the wine was an Argentinian (Mendoza) white, Santa Julia Viognier Plus Mendoza 2015 from Chelsea Wine Vault
• the music was Marc-Antoine Charpentier’s 1688 opera, ‘David & Jonathas’, a tragédie en musique which does not end well for anyone, William Christie conducting Les Arts Florissants [note; in its time, the opera was very big in Jesuit land]

I had planned on serving a pasta Friday night, because the Union Square Greenmarket being closed the day after Thanksgiving, there would be no fresh local fish. Then I remembered that, although it was hardly local, there was always wild-caught salmon available less than a block from our door.

I opted for the Sockeye; there will always be pasta.

• one 14-ounce wild sockeye salmon fillet from Whole Foods, coated on both sides with a mix of light brown turbinado sugar, sea salt, freshly ground pepper, freshly ground allspice, freshly ground nutmeg, and the zest of half of an organic lemon from Whole Foods, allowed to marinate in the refrigerator in a covered dish for about 3 hours, the fish then rinsed, patted dry, brought to room temperature, oiled generously, and cooked on an enameled grill pan, flesh side down, removed when the inside was not quite pink, the outside crisp and smoky, divided onto 2 plates, drizzled with a little olive oil and sprinkled with lovage from Two Guys from Woodbridge, served with lemon wedges [the recipe is little altered from this one from Melissa Clark]
• two small Japanese scallions, sliced, and one heatless fresh habanada pepper, chopped finely, both from Norwich Meadows Farm, heated in olive oil inside a large cast iron pan until softened, then several small Korean cucumbers from Lani’s Farm, chopped into one-inch bits, added and sautéed until beginning to brown, seasoned with salt and pepper

There was a cheese course, this time with fruit rather than toasts

• the cheeses were, from left to right in the picture, ‘Bigelow’, a goat cheese from Ardith Mae; Consider Bardwell Farm’s ‘Reconsider’, which is a one-time event: a cow cheese finished in their ‘Manchester’ goat cheese cave; Consider Bardwell Farm’s ‘Dorset’ cow cheese; and an organic gorgonzola, casarrigoni from Whole Foods

 

• the wine was an Austrian (Thermenregion) red, Stadlmann Classic Pinot Noir 2012
• the music was various works by Pauline Oliveros, a great composer and performer who had died the day before, including her ‘Beautiful Soop‘ (1966) and ‘Water Above Sky Below Now‘ (2015)

with no hint of the richness of the entrée, a light cabbage sauté

(‘butter’ still melting) the empty space in the middle? reserved for quince chutney

..and here it is (I had taken the second picture before serving the chutney)

tiny cheese, big toast, but the toast was very thin

we decided to call pecan pie a Venezuelan desert (inside joke)

 

Thanksgiving with venison.

The bad part: no leftovers; the good part: no leftovers.

I had no interest in serving a turkey, and there were to be only 4 people at the table this year. Besides, turkey is hard, and it would have meant I couldn’t oversleep on one of my favorite holidays.

We had venison; it was the best venison I have ever cooked.

We both love game, and Ottomanelli’s had some thick New Zealand venison chops when I visited the shop last week. These rich cuts are at least as simple to prepare as a steak, and everybody thinks they can cook a steak, and they’re right. My now-favorite approach for venison chops is to season them well, give them a quick searing on each side, then about 5 minutes in the oven, no turning required, followed by a few minutes rest on warm plates before serving.

The simplest of recipes does invite a little tweaking however. It could be as simple as deglazing the pan with spirits or putting together a composed butter to spread on the top of the cooked meat. I went for the latter this time, a blue cheese-fennel butter.

The long, informal little dinner party began with a toast.

• there were Italian breadsticks (terrific rustic ones, Mario Fongo grissini integrali, from Buon Italia
• the wine was a French (Champagne) sparkling, Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut

The sitting part part began with cabbage, almost a salad, but warm and savory.

love cutting cabbage; think it’s about the texture and the simple movement

 

• inside a large enameled cast iron pot, one chopped garlic clove from Stokes Farm, sautéed in a tablespoon of olive oil only until golden, followed by less than 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar, 6 crushed juniper berries, and roughly half of a pound of a ‘conehead’ cabbage (also known as ‘caraflex’ or ‘arrowhead’ cabbage) from Norwich Meadows Farm, very finely sliced, after the triangular core had been removed, sliced thinly and set aside, the cabbage seasoned with salt and pepper, the heat raised, the mix fried for about one minute, stirring, then arranged on plates, the reserved core triangles arranged on top (I’ve used the basic recipe a number of times as an appetizer when we have guests, a favorite with cook and guests for its convenience and its deliciousness, respectively; it’s from ‘Healthy Italian Cooking‘, by Emanuella Stucchi, a small ‘stealth’ vegetarian tome I had been using it for years before I realized there was no meat or fish in any of the recipes
• slices of a whole wheat sourdough miche from Bread Alone, in the Greenmarket
• the wine was an Oregon (Rogue Valley) white, Foris Vineyards Rogue Valley Gewürztraminer Oregon 2014

The entrée included the venison chops finished with a gorgonzola-fennel seed butter, a quince and cherry chutney, a spicy-smoky sweet potato gratin, and a sweet ’embossed’ leafy vegetable.

• four thick loin chops (6- 7 ounces each), New Zealand farmed venison, via O. Ottomanelli & Sons, on Bleecker Street, brought to room temperature, generously seasoned on both sides, seared in a little olive oil and butter inside an enameled cast iron pan, placed in a 425º oven for about 5 or 6 minutes, removed, and allowed to rest, a tablespoon or so of a composed butter placed on top while they were still warm (the butter was some softened ‘Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter‘ flavored with a small amount of toasted and crushed dried fennel seed; a few drops of Worcestershire sauce; salt; pepper; a couple ounces of Gorgonzola Casarrigoni from Whole Foods; and a sprinkling of crushed dried, very dark, heatless habanada peppers, rolled into a ‘log’ one inch in diameter, and refrigerated until needed)
• quince chutney, made following this theKitchn.com recipe, using a shallot from Keith’s Farm, a garlic clove from Stokes Farm, quince from Red Jacket Orchards, dried sweet cherries from Whole Foods, fresh ginger from Lani’s Farm, apple cider from Locust Grove Fruit Farm (the recipe asked for apple cider vinegar, and I do have a bottle of the local stuff, from Race Farm, but I misread the instruction and the dish still turned out more than fine)
• two pounds of Japanese sweet potatoes from Lani’s Farm, sliced thinly, seasoned with salt and pepper, arranged in 4 layers separated by portions of 2 cups of heavy cream that had been mixed in a blender with one chipotle pepper and a small amount of adobo sauce (the layers beginning with the potatoes), inside a 8″x12″ glazed ceramic casserole dish, baked inside a 350º oven for about one hour, or until the cream had been absorbed and the potatoes browned, finished on the plates with a scattering of micro radish from Windfall Farms (the gratin recipe, one I’ve used many times, is from ‘Bobby Flay’s Bold American Food‘, where, minus the micro radish, it appears as ‘Sweet Potato Gratin with Smoked Chiles’)
• about half of a pound of small tender leaves of cavolo nero (also known as lacinata, black kale, or Tuscan kale) from Tamarack Hollow Farm, briefly wilted with olive oil and 4 halved garlic cloves from Stokes Farm, the garlic first heated in the oil until they became pungent
• the wines were a California (Calaveras) red, F. Stephen Millier Black Label Red Angel Red Blend Calaveras County 2014 from Naked Wines; and an Italian (Sicily) red, Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2014

There was a cheese course.

• four different cheeses, ‘Bigelow’ goat cheese from Ardith Mae; Consider Bardwell’s ‘Reconsider’, which is a one-time event: a cow cheese finished in the ‘Manchester’ goat cheese cave; Consider Bardwell’s ‘Dorset’ cow cheese; and an untitled Consider Bardwell blue goat cheese
• thin toasts of a fantastic ‘8 Grain 3 Seed’ bread from Rock Hill Bakery, Gansevoort, NY (the ingredients are: ‘unbleached, unbromated wheat flour, water, organically grown whole wheat flour, honey, corn grits, millet, oats, cracked barley, cracked rye, cracked wheat, flax seeds, brown rice flour, sunflower seeds, buckwheat flour, pops seeds, salt’), made on my ‘Camp-A-Toaster’ [see this post]

There was a sweet (well, another sweet).

• a magnificent pecan pie, from Le Pain Quotidien, the gift of our guests, beside a scoop of Ciao Bella ‘Madagascar Vanilla’ gelato frm Whole Foods, served on glass chargers requisitioned for functional service the first time ever.

We topped the evening with neat sips of a very good Venezuelan rum, Roble Viejo Ron Extra Añejo, also from our guests.

• the music was entirely from the Americas [Renaldo Hahn was born in Venezuela], drawn from a Spotify playlist assembled by Barry for the afternoon and evening (we enjoyed slow food dinner and conversation for 8 hours)

This meal incorporated the last of the chicories and tender greens from Campo Rosso Farm which we had enjoyed as a ‘take home’ from a recent farm dinner at Untitled. As simple as it was, both the tastes and colors just happened to work out as something of an overture to the Thanksgiving meal which succeeded it the next day.

• eight ounces of Afeltra Penne Rigata, from Eataly, cooked al dente, tossed into a large enameled cast iron pot in which 2 sliced Japanese scallions from Norwich Meadows Farm, half of a very small hot chili from Eckerton Hill Farm, and one chopped heatless orange Habanada pepper from Norwich Meadows Farm had all been allowed to warm in a little olive oil until softened, a mix of chicories and tender greens from Campo Rosso Farm, torn to fork size, added to the pot and briefly stirred with the pasta, the mix served in shallow bowls, grated Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse from Buon Italia sprinkled on top
• the wine was an Italian (Toscana) white, Prelius Vermentino Toscana 2015, from Chelsea Wine Vault
• the music was that of Harrison Birtwistle, from the album with pianist Joanna MacGregor, ‘Harrison Birtwistle: Antiphonies & Harrison’s Clocks‘

Having prepared flounder only 2 weeks earlier, last night I felt I had to try hard not to duplicate the same I had done then. The first step may have been a decision to foreswear my micro greens this time.

The result was every bit as delicious as what I somehow neglected at the time to describe as one of the very best flounders I had ever had.

Oh, and the eggplant, probably the last of a very long season, were equally delicious, and sweeter than they had been all summer and fall.

• 4 flounder fillets, for a total of 12 ounces, from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, seasoned with salt and pepper on both sides, coated lightly with flour (I used North Country Farms Stone Ground Whole Wheat Flour), then submerged in a shallow bowl containing a whipped mixture of 1/4 cup of milk, one large egg from Millport Dairy, and a pinch of salt, allowed to rest there until the vegetable had been grilled and set aside, removed from the bowl, the excess egg mixture allowed to drip off, fried in a pan with olive oil until golden, about two minutes for each side, transferred onto two warm plates, the pan returned to the heat, now turned lower, and 3 tablespoons of butter added, along with about a third of a cup of chopped Japanese scallions and one large habanada pepper, both from Norwich Meadows Farm, some salt and pepper, all allowed to cook together without browning for about one minute, stirring, then more than a tablespoon of lemon juice added, the sauce produced now poured over the plated fillets, which were sprinkled with chopped parsley from Norwich Meadows Farm and accompanied by organic lemon wedges from Whole Foods
• three small Japanese eggplant from Lani’s Farm and one from Norwich Meadows Farm, each cut into 1/2-inch slices lengthwise, brushed with a mixture of olive oil, finely-chopped garlic, chopped oregano from Stokes Farm, salt, and pepper, the slices pan-grilled, turning once or more, then arranged on an oval platter, sprinkled with whole oregano leaves, and drizzled with a little olive oil
• the wine was a California (Lodi) white, JC van Staden Chardonnay Lodi 2015
• the music was a magnificent performance of Antonio Vivaldi’s 1733 opera, ‘Motezuma’, Alan Curtis conducting Il Complesso Barocco, with Vito Priante, Marijana Mijanovic, Inga Kalna, Roberta Invernizzi, Romina Basso, Maité Beaumont, et al. [the synopsis of this rendering of the historical Cortez-Montezuma encounter, includes a way surprising happy ending for the Aztec imperial couple, reminding me of the charming fantasies Melina Mercouri maintained, in ‘Never on Sunday‘, about the happy denouements of the Greek tragedies: “And then they all go together to the seashore!”

 

oh, wow.

I’ve never cooked veal ribs before. Growing up, I loved my mother’s ‘barbecued spare ribs’, and I know I’ve cooked pork ribs a few times, but that was well before I began this blog, so I have no documentation. I did cook goat ribs some 5 years back, but that’s about it in modern times, so when I bought a neat package of veal ribs from Peter at the Consider Bardwell Farm stand in the Greenmarket, it was not without some anxiety: I had no idea what to do with it.

Thank the kitchen fairies for the internet! Not one of my hard copy sources, books or clippings, had a darn thing on this cut. While the Google results hardly jumped out of the screen (what I did find was complicated by the search engine’s unfamiliarity with the combination of the words, ‘veal’ and ‘ribs’), a few things eventually showed up. I excluded most because of complexity (one included dozens of ingredients) and for the estimated preparation time (as usual my cooking window was limited last night).

The preparation I chose to follow, mostly, was labelled, ‘Country Mustard Braised Veal Riblets‘; it had appeared in the Los Angeles Times over 25 years ago, and was waiting for me yesterday on line.

The recipe looked like a winner, and it was.

• the original recipe was halved, but followed pretty closely, with the exception of the addition of some cayenne pepper to the seasoned flour, and, by impulse, the introduction of 5 or 6 rosemary sprigs into the liquid just before the pot was covered and the braising begun; the ingredients included Spanish Dulce paprika, Nigerian cayenne pepper, 23 ounces of veal rib (that is 3 ribs, one of which I sawed in half) from Consider Bardwell Farm (boy cows can’t help with the cream), a very sturdy dark mustard (Maille Old Style Whole Grain Dijon Mustard), a medium onion from Stokes Farm, a little fresh apple juice from Locust Grove Fruit Farm, organic lemon juice from Whole Foods, a bit of Linden blossom honey from Tremblay Apiaries, finishing the ribs on the plate with a sprinkling of zest from the organic lemon
• one head of radicchio from Campo Rosso Farm, which had been presented to guests at a recent farm dinner at Untitled, quartered, a toothpick stuck into each quarter to hold its shape, placed in a medium unglazed ceramic oven pan (Pampered Chef, well-seasoned), drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper, roasted at 400º for about 15 minutes, turning once, finished with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, and, once on the 2 plates, scattered with shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse from Buon Italia
• a small amount of minutina from Lani’s Farm (that remained after most of it had appeared in 2 earlier meals), washed, drained, then barely wilted, inside a tin-lined copper sauté pan with a bit of olive oil, for only about 15 seconds, above a low-to-medium flame, seasoned with salt and pepper and finished on the plates with a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon
• the wine was an Italian (Langhe) red, Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 2013
• the music was Handel’s ‘Arminio’,  Alan Curtis conducting Il Complesso Barocco, with Vivica Genaux, Dominique Labelle, Manuela Custer, Luigi Petroni, Sytse Buwalda, Riccardo Ristori, and Geraldine McGreevy, et al.