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  • venison loin, quince relish, celeriac frite, red napa cabbage

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    It was a very special dinner. It was Christmas, but it wasn’t a Christmas dinner. Also, this was not a reindeer. The special part was that it was the feast of winter, which goes by many names all over the world, but which is always observed at around the time of the winter solstice. The…

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  • serrano ham, greens; mafaldine with garlic, tomato, thyme

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    It was the eve of Christmas, which we observe mainly with good cheer, a little irony, and a good meal, one that’s always on the light side, anticipating an even greater treat the next day, an approach, for what it’s worth, that mimic’s the Christian devotional tradition. Mafaldine happens to be one of the most…

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  • butter roasted salmon, seasoning salt, chive; potato; redbor

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    The Pacific Northwest (Alaska waters?) salmon at our local Whole Foods Market looked particularly good on that Monday, and the price was really good. Besides, earlier in the day I had learned from the GrowNY site that there would be no fish at the Union Square Greenmarket that day, all of which goes toward explaining…

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  • spaghetti, onion-tuna-caper-peperoncino sauce, parsley

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    It’s simple, it takes less than a half hour to put on the table, and it feels right at any time of the year, but the ingredients should be the very best available. By the way, forget you thought you knew about tuna casseroles: The Italians know how to incorporate [very good] canned tuna into…

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  • mushroom, cheese, garlic sausage; roasted roots; shishito

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    A very sturdy winter dinner, with a few juicy sweet peppers to point out just how sturdy and wintry it was. four 4-ounce artisanal porcini, Parmesan cheese, and black garlic fresh sausages (pork, white wine, salt, Parmesan cheese, black garlic, porcini, and shiitake mushrooms, black pepper, natural casings) from Hudson Vally Charcuterie  at Raven & Boar farm, seared…

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  • fennel and chili-paved grilled tuna; sautéed tomato; potato

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    It was a steak, and while it looks like beef in the light recorded by the photograph above, it was tuna, and it tasted like tuna, which is to say, very good. Looking for music to accompany the meal, Barry turned up 2 very interesting composers totally unfamiliar to either of us until that night.…

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  • oregano, chili-roasted squid, lemon; potato; tender collards

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    “squid | skwid | noun (plural same or squids) an elongated, fast-swimming cephalopod mollusk with ten arms (technically, eight arms and two long tentacles), typically able to change color. But that’s always only a part of the story. exactly one pound of fresh squid, mostly bodies, because someone else had just bought all the tentacles,…

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  • pasta, celery, olive, habanada, lovage, pinoli, micro scallion

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    We weren’t interested in a big deal meal, so I thought I’d put together a pasta. Barry said he would like one with which we could enjoy a red wine, so I gathered some ingredients that would please that choice. It was far more interesting, and delicious, than we had expected, and a second helping…

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  • swordfish belly; cherry tomatoes, marjoram; red mustard

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    Somebody else said it, but it totally makes sense: Swordfish belly is to swordfish as pork belly is to pork. Which means it’s absolutely wonderful, and explains why I’ve gone home with some every time I’ve found it in the market. Because it doesn’t show up at our local fish stands very often, this was…

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  • goat cheese and lemon panzerotti, granada pepper, parsley

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    It was an extremely simple meal of a pasta followed by a course that included 3 different cheeses with bread to accompany them. The meal was enjoyed Sunday night, December 15, and its details have been forgotten more than 2 weeks later, but I remember something about a 9-ounce package of a delicious frozen goat…

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