Latest posts
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spicy salmon, micro mustard; roasted mixed roots; arugula
Categories: Meals at homeWe hadn’t enjoyed any seafood in days, an unusual dry spell for us. Normally we would have had some on Monday, but the fisher people from Eastern Long Island who are normally there that day, didn’t make it, like almost every other producer, because of the severe cold and wind. So It seemed like a…
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pepper venison; herb-roasted potatoes; red cabbage; tilsit
Categories: Meals at homeIt was a holiday. And there was game. Although venison is hardly what comes to mind on the day when the memory of Martin Luther King Jr. is especially abroad in the land, last night we celebrated the birthday of the great man partly with this very good meal. It was especially good, especially on an…
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whole grain pasta, radishes, greens, toasted fresh crumbs
Categories: Meals at homeSunday pasta, winter variant. Thanks to the radish. six or seven ounces of French breakfast radishes from Eckerton Hill Farms cooked inside a large antique copper pot in a little butter and olive oil over a medium-high flame until they were tender but still retained some bite, removed and reserved, then 6 or 7 sliced…
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thyme & chili-grilled quail; roasted white pumpkin; cabbage
Categories: Meals at homeThe quail may have been domesticated, but it still tastes wild, which is a very good thing. It’s one of our favorite entrées, even if it doesn’t appear on our table very often. It only showed up this time because, while looking for something else inside the packaged meat case in La Macelleria at Eataly…
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monkfish roasted with potatoes, olives, bay; savoy cabbage
Categories: Meals at homeWe were entertaining guests from Berlin, one of whom hadn’t been to our apartment for dinner before, at least while we were there (we had exchanged apartments for a month). Neither meat nor pasta could be on the menu. I wanted to serve something which we would all appreciate, and which also would allow me to…
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emmer reginetti, shallot, celery, olive, pinoli; buffalo cheese
Categories: Meals at homeI’ve found it impossible to serve anything but a delicious meal when I use one of Sfoglini‘s local artisanal pastas. While they each have great individual flavors of their own, they can also be canvases inviting a cook to be as creative as possible with whatever might be in the kitchen, and sometimes the smallest…
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cod and tomatoes baked on a bed of purple potatoes; rabe
Categories: Meals at homeThe aura of New England cod. I think I’ve understood its emanation since at least the time I was cramming for a family trip to New England in the early 50’s, so when Glen Bickleman told me that the bucket of cod fillets he was displaying in his fish stall, caught out of eastern Long Island…
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winter picnic: smoked fish salad toasts; sliced duck breast
Categories: Meals at homeWinter picnic. Fried duck breast part 2. I had bought more of Dolores Kalin’s wonderful smoked fish salad at the Greenmarket the day before, with no particular meal in mind at the time. Then, the next day, when I was looking around for something to fill out a menu in which slices of cold cooked…
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fried duck breast; sweet potato frites; cabbage; cheeses
Categories: Meals at homePractice. I’m getting the hang of this cooking thing, even with the added complication of guests. I had cooked everything that appears on this plate many times before, although with a little variation each time, but it still seems to me like an accomplishment that I hadn’t done anything ahead of time, that I started…
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hemp pasta, garlic, celery, sunflower sprouts, breadcrumbs
Categories: Meals at homeOur first weed pasta. It was very good, even without the psychotropic stuff. eight ounces from a box of Sfoglini hemp reginetti, boiled until just before it would have become al dente, drained and tossed into a large antique high-sided copper pot in which 5 small Rocambole garlic cloves from Keith’s Farm, lightly smashed, and…