lamb kidneys, lemon/mustard sauce; fries; greens


I haven’t found a more satisfying recipe for veal or lamb kidneys since coming across this one decades ago, thank you Julia.  I try to tell myself it’s sort of Italian, because most of my inspiration these days comes from the Italian kitchen.  I think the description of the cooking process, paraphrasing (in fact, simplifying) that published in Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”, should explain why I long ago abandoned France for Italy in these things.

  • lamb kidneys, from Arcadian Pastures in the Union Square Greenmarket, sautéed in butter until brown on the outside but still very rare in the center, removed and kept warm before adding chopped shallots from Phillips Farm into the pan and cooking them for one minute, adding lemon juice and white wine, reducing the liquids thus combined over high heat, quickly thinly-slicing the kidneys in the meantime, removing the pan from the burner and slowly adding a mixture of equal parts butter and dijon mustard, returning the sliced kidneys and their juices to the pan and briefly warming them in the sauce, finally sprinkling them with chopped parsley from Paffenroth Gardens (whew); the original Julia Child recipe is shown here
  • red skin new potatoes (maturing for a couple of months at least in our crisper drawer) from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, cut unpeeled as for fries, tossed with olive oil, chopped thyme from Stokes Farm, unpeeled garlic cloves from Garden of Spices Farm, salt, and pepper, spread onto a ceramic oven pan and baked at 450º for twenty minutes, finished with chopped parsley from Paffenroth Gardens
  • a mix of radish greens from Keith’s Farm and purple kohlrabi greens from Norwich Meadows Farm (and a few strands of carrot tops that were hangers-on in the kohlrabi greens), braised with garlic cloves from Garden of Spices Farm,, finished with salt, pepper and olive oil
  • the wine was a Washington state red, Bell Tone Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from Vinewood Creek Vintners