It was neither fish, flesh, nor fowl, but, perhaps uniquely, it did include the milk of bovines, so not vegan either.

There was treviso, Vermont treviso.

• two small sliced Japanese scallions from Norwich Meadows Farm and one whole dried peperoncini Calabresi secchia from Buon Italia heated over a low flame in a tablespoon or so of Whole Foods Market house Portuguese olive oil inside a large, heavy, antique high-sided copper pan, stirring until the allium had softened, the zest and some of the juice of an organic California lemon from Whole Foods Market then mixed in, followed by half of a one-pound package of an all-New York-grain pasta, cooked al dente and drained, Sfoglini‘s spaccatelli (which includes local organic durum semolina and organic hard red wheat flour, New Jersey Riverine Ranch water buffalo milk, and water), an all-New York-grain pasta, cooked al dente and drained, picked up at the Riverine ranchers’ stall in the Union Square Greenmarket, plus, adding it gradually while stirring, more than half a cup of reserved pasta cooking water, then continuing to stir the mix over a moderate to high flame until the liquid had emulsified, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, and, after the heat was turned off, 2 handfuls of roughly chopped treviso radicchio from Tamarack Hollow Farm, the pasta arranged in shallow bowls, some toasted pine nuts, or pinoli, from Buon Italia tossed on top, finished with a bit of olive oil drizzled around the outside of the pasta and garnished with red micro basil from Two Guys from Woodbridge
• the wine was a California (Lodi) white, F. Stephen Millier Angels Reserve Pinot Grigio Lodi 2017, from Naked Wines
• the music was Francesco Geminiani’s Concerti Grossi Op 3,  Fabio Biondi conducting Europa Galante