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  • scallops, onion bud; purple potatoes, dill; red stem spinach

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    I used to think it was autumn that was the most blessed season for vegetables, but moving through the unfolding surprises of spring, especially since they follow a season that has to be described as semi desert, I might have to reconsider that thought. Onion buds, for starters, and there will be more of that…

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  • steak, chicory; roasted potatoes, spruce; purple sprouting

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    Steak. It takes all kinds. In the past I have generally favored cooking the kinds generally favored by others, with a very few exceptions for unusual cuts, but I honestly think it’s out of a preference for the neatness of a steak, both in its appearance on the plate and in the slicing of it.…

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  • almost a simple breakfast of bacon and eggs

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    I think our breakfast plates actually are looking a little more minimal lately.  While this may be a desirable trend, the downside is that I might begin to lose interest in cooking eggs for breakfast if I leave little room for my imagination. The picture below probably includes everything seen on the plate in the…

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  • mussels, lovage, chili, wine, tomatoes, shallot; seedy bread

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    Ahhhh. Even if for some reason the mussels themselves were claimed by another, the diner who got the the soup would be the winner. There’s nothing like mussel broth. Nothing. Before the dinner itself we enjoyed a refreshing, fascinating natural wine with some breadsticks from Buon Italia. the wine was the sparkling version of a…

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  • bocconcini; sunchoke fusilli, garlic scapes, chilis, olives, dill

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    I think of the fairly simple pasta courses I scatter between more serious or composed meat and fish entrées as something like ‘intervals’ between acts, but they’re usually at least as satisfying as what would normally be called more main event dinners. As this one was. There was also a simple antipasto this time. five…

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  • herb-marinated weakfish; asparagus, mint; rhubarb biscuit

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    Squeteague (aka ‘Weakfish’ or Sea/Ocean Trout). I’ve written it before: We love this fish. It’s a noble fish, but it’s not a trout. It’s generally marketed as ‘ocean trout’, I suppose because ‘weakfish’ doesn’t present a positive image. In fact the ‘weak’ part is only because the fish’s jaw tears apart easily when it is hooked (ouch), meaning…

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  • rigatoni with spring alliums, lemon, radicchio, pinoli, mint

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    It was light and delicious, a bit like the weather itself last night. Also pretty, and even before I started cooking. a mix of 3 small ramp bulbs that had made it this far through the spring carefully tended inside the refrigerator crisper, and short sections of spring garlic bulb from Lani’s Farm, plus one…

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  • tautog, olives, tomatoes, herb; boiled new potatoes, agretti

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    If the fish itself looks a little different than it did the last time I cooked it this same way (it seems ‘peppered’ with dark red spots), I’m thinking the difference is that I actually had Aleppo pepper this time (Morton & Bassett dried, from Westside Market), while I’d always had to use a substitute…

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  • breakfast, almost simple, and whispers of a sub-continent

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    I was going to make it minimal, but I couldn’t quite see the concept through to the end. Sunday’s breakfast included the usual fresh eggs from pastured chickens and bacon from pastured pigs, all from Pennsylvania’s Millport Dairy Farm in the Union Square Greenmarket, the fried eggs seasoned with local Long Island sea salt (P.E.…

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  • steak, savory; mushrooms, spruce tips; broccolini (3 allium)

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    It was Barry‘s birthday, so the meal would have to be special (for me, they’re all special, if only for the wonderful company, but some ingredients may be more special than others). Because it was a Saturday night, when so many New Yorkers are searching for the right dinner table, we thought ‘special’ and right…

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