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  • a colorful sunday breakfast, with the music of a wise king

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    I wasn’t going to bother doing this post except that the music was so special. Also, the picture works. the stuff on the plate last Sunday [afternoon]: some very fresh eggs from pastured chickens and bacon from pastured pigs, both from Millport Dairy Farm, seasoned with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and crushed dried…

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  • pork mousse; venison chops, sautéed mushrooms; collards

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    It was a meaty dinner. The first course was a do-it-yourself project constructed around a wonderful pork mousse that had been made on a Columbia County farm, Raven & Boar, installed at the Union Square Greenmarket for the first time ever on Wednesday. where it was selling its very singular produce, farm-made pork charcuterie. a…

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  • flounder with oyster mushrooms, ramps, espelette; chard

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    The flounder fillets were beautiful; Warren had just fetched a fresh ‘bucket’ from the truck, and opened it in front of at least one very appreciative customer. They were a little larger than I might have been able to handle in the kitchen before, but I had recently acquired a beautiful new pan that would…

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  • local hemp rigatoni with a rich king oyster mushroom sauce

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    Gosh, this pasta is so good. Then every other Sfoglini product is as well. It’s just that, well, hemp is pretty special, even without the absurd extra-culinary associations someone who grew up in the American no-no land is never going to shake. eight ounces out of a box of Sfoglini hemp reginetti, boiled until just before…

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  • lemony, habanada-breaded, baked perch; potatoes; kale

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    A fish bake. Although there were some obvious differences and some less than obvious even to me, after I spotted the little fillets in the fisherman’s family’s stand, I almost immediately thought of this meal as a modest salute to the Great Lakes of what are generally describe as one’s ‘formative’ years. I brought home…

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  • porchetta; tortelli limone, bacca rosa, zest, micro mustard

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    Lemon pasta, what a concept. But then so is something called, ‘porchetta’, which preceded the pasta. four ounces of Principe Italian uncured roasted porchetta rolled in pancetta from Chelsea Whole Foods Market, drizzled with a little olive oil baby arugula from Alewife Farm, drizzled with a little olive oil slices of Pain d’Avignon seven grain bread (whole…

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  • eggs, espellette, fennel dust, chives; tomato, scallion, basil

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    The most significant thing about this breakfast is that I managed to get 6 eggs to the table with every yolk intact. This is not always the case on Sunday mornings. Yay me. joining the eggs, which were from the pastured hens at Millport Dairy Farm and here dusted with freshly ground black pepper, sea…

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  • culotte steak, chives; habanada-roasted potatoes; lacinato

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    The best steak. The plate suggested the New York steak house classic: Steak and potatoes, with something green on the side. There were even chives, but they weren’t to be found on the baked potato, and the vegetable proved that everything green is not spinach. Actually, I think everything was very different. We don’t eat…

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  • onion/garlic/lemon/thyme-braised hake; tomato; mustards

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    When I saw the beautiful fillets at the Greenmarket, I immediately checked to see when I had last cooked hake. Using this blog’s index, I learned that it had been over 7 months back. I decided to bring one home. one thick 19-ounce hake fillet from Jan at P.E. & D.D. Seafood Company, washed drained,…

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  • orecchiette, mushroom, shishito, mustard, parmesan, chive

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    It was going to be pasta, and I had a few ounces of oyster mushrooms left from the meal prepared the night before. To show off the mushrooms better, Barry and I both decided that a good conventional wheat pasta might be better this time than one made with a vegetable, or a more-strongly flavored…

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