Latest posts

  • smoked fish pâté; baked cod on potato; purple kale; gelato

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    There were two guests, and two fishes, actually, more than two (fishes). We had friends to dinner and it was decided that seafood should dominate the menu, partly because we figured most New Yorkers rarely cook fish at home, and I definitely do. The first course featured a salad (the fisherman himself calls it a…

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  • roasted skate, tomato, mustard, tiny celery; potato, chervil

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    I should have halved the potatoes, to help them appear as sweet as they tasted.   Paul pointed me toward the whole skate wing lying in the iced tub, but I had already (almost) decided that the skate was what I would be taking home. One cooked with its cartilage, and, I think, at least…

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  • oregano/chili/habanada/lemon-roasted squid; spinach

    Oh so good. On my way home from the Greenmarket with these Cephalopoda on Wednesday I thought about how many people think of squid only as an appetizer, usually batter-coated and deep-fried, which can be awesome, but that we almost always enjoy them at home as the special main event I think their goodness deserves.…

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  • the 10th anniversary of the Hoggard / Wagner Food blog

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    I began writing this blog 10 years ago today. I’ve reproduced the first modest entry below. It appears to have been before the era of photography. So I’m just going to add some color here, before I do anything else. MARCH 16, 2009 dinner, March 16, 2009 ham steak (from Flying Pigs Farm, at the Union Square…

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  • steak, chive; garlic/oregano-roasted tomato; celeriac frites

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    Steak and French fries, and catsup. Actually, a grass-fed local steak, celery root frites, and roasted tomatoes. The background story is that I had gone to our local While Foods at some time after 8 in the evening yesterday intending to pick a wild Northwest Coast wild salmon fillet, as I do occasionally (and in…

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  • mackerel toast; alliums/lemon/caper-baked pollock; greens

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    I like the landscaping. There were two courses. While the the image above is of the second one, I wanted to lead with it rather than with the mackerel toasts, because almost that same appetizer had shown up on this blog only recently. In the interim I had located some fresh chives, which improves the…

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  • smoked mackerel toast; buffalo steak; fava; roasted potato

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    Oh my. Yes, once again we have access to some wonderful smoked local fish. After a hiatus which had saddened many of their customers, the Karlin family’s P.E. & D.D. Seafood Company, is again selling this very special fresh delicacy that originates in the hauls from its boats out of Long Island’s North Fork, . I…

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  • lemon/micro mustard on lemon sole; scallion/lovage potato

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    Its appearance is almost monochromatic in this photograph, but if I can use that adjective family to describe taste, our enjoyment of this entrée was polychromatic. Also, while no sugar was added to either the fish or the vegetable, both were, oddly, and deliciously, incredibly sweet. one really fresh 14.5-ounce lemon sole fillet from Pura…

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  • spicy goat ribs, mustard sauce; rutabaga frites and greens

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    ‘Goat wings’, I’m calling them. They had started out great. But then they spent too much time in the oven. My estimate of the cooking time for slow-braised goat ribs was far more generous than it should have been (I was looking at a recipe for lamb, but I had goat (goats are pretty small,…

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  • marinated, breaded grilled swordfish; tomato; komatsuna

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    There were many possible choices at the fishers’ stall on Monday, but the swordfish looked really fantastic. two beautiful swordfish steak halves from American Seafood Company in the Union Square Greenmarket, marinated for about 45 minutes, turning once, in a mixture of a few tablespoons of olive oil, more than a teaspoon of a fresh…

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