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  • lunch with Amish farm eggs and bacon, tomatoes and stuff

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    But of course our Sunday lunches (which are also breakfasts) almost always include Amish farm eggs and bacon; it’s almost everything else that changes, although sometimes only slightly. yesterday, in addition to 6 fresh eggs from pastured chickens and 4 slices of bacon from pastured pigs, all from John Stoltzfoos’ Pennsylvania Millport Dairy Farm in the Union…

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  • dolphin, scape, habanada, pericón; potatoes, epazote; kale

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    The single dolphin fillet was a little smaller than that I’d usually prefer to get for the two of us, but while I was at the fisher’s stand I couldn’t figure out how to bring home more without messing up the aesthetic of the plate. Fortunately I had some wonderful vegetables to help fill in.…

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  • whole wheat pasta with anchovy, garlic, chili, capers, kale

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    I’d been waiting for an opportunity to revisit one of my favorite darker artisanal pastas, but the weather hadn’t been cooperating. I had bought the package in the spring, when the weather was much cooler. I think of wholewheat pasta, and the kind of accoutrements it suggests, as just a little too earthy for a…

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  • herbed bass, tomato-olive-chili salsa, dill; fried red pepper

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    It was delicious, and I think the plate looks good, which makes me almost as happy. Nothing was planned even seconds ahead in the presentation; it just unfolded, the fillet first, then the peppers, finishing with the salsa. The tomato and olive mix was placed close to the fish and not the peppers, because it…

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  • swordfish belly, tomatoes, epazote; cucumber, onion, dill

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    It’s certainly one of the easiest seafoods to prepare, especially if you decide it isn’t necessary to remove the skin (although the next time I probably will, if only to make the searing more efficient). Barry suggested swordfish belly when I had I asked him for his preference yesterday, texting him an image of the…

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  • duck breast, epazote; peppers, scapes, red onion; melon

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    It seemed like these peppers could have been grown just to accompany this duck, or perhaps the other way around. Also, they were both assertive in both texture and flavor, so there wasn’t much else to add. I’m glad I forgot about the micro greens at the end; the plate was both complex enough and…

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  • eggs, epazote; tomato, lovage; bacon, dark cornbread

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    Especially compared to my usual Sunday practice, the herbs and spices were pretty minimal yesterday at lunch, but the epazote was a star on the eggs. And the new bread was scrumptious. The meal introduced something else new to our table: A local, ‘European style'(cultured) 86% butterfat butter (that is to say, 12 of the…

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  • finocchiona, arugula; chitarra, garlic, chili, anchovy, parsley

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    It was a return to a pretty simple, pretty authentically (mostly southern) Italian meal last night, something that has been missing from our table for a while. No fancy extras anywhere in sight. I knew it would be a pasta night, sitting between fish and meat-dominated dinners, and I had decided to include a first…

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  • shishito; roasted squid, baby corn on the cob with epazote

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    I love corn, in almost any form. While that goes for corn on the cob as well, I hate the messy process involved in eating it (I put it in the same category as boiled lobster: best consumed while sitting on sand, preferably rocks, on the ocean, preferably Aquidneck Island). And then there’s corn where…

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  • herb-roasted striped bass; grilled tomato, dill; green beans

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    For a while at least, this may become my favorite recipe for a very favorite fish. Lately I’ve wanted to prepare it on top of the range, and when it works, it ends up with an attractive and delicious crispy skin, but until I can manage to do it well each time, and without the…

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