{"id":9336,"date":"2016-08-25T05:17:37","date_gmt":"2016-08-25T05:17:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=9336"},"modified":"2016-08-25T05:17:37","modified_gmt":"2016-08-25T05:17:37","slug":"dolphin-squash-tomato","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=9336","title":{"rendered":"dolphin, lemon, alliums, thyme, tapenade; squash; tomato"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9337\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/dolphin_squash_tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"dolphin_squash_tomatoes\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This fish doesn&#8217;t get much respect. This has been true even after some\u00a0people\u00a0decided it would go over better if it were called &#8216;mahi -mahi,&#8217; rather than the traditional, &#8216;dolphin&#8217;, or &#8216;dolphinfish&#8217;, important in both western cuisine and\u00a0art\u00a0for 4 millennia (long before Hawaii turned up). I came close to exhausting the topic,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=mahi\">once before<\/a>,\u00a0at least as it relates to home food preparation<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=mahi\">.<\/a>\u00a0I posited\u00a0what appears to be one of the reasons for its lack of popularity. I&#8217;m not willing to go into that again\u00a0now, other than to point out that\u00a0I&#8217;m talking about the water-breathing fish, and not the air-breathing mammal.<\/p>\n<p>My own experience with it in the kitchen is that I liked it the very first time I had it, and I&#8217;ve liked it even more each time I&#8217;ve been able to bring it home.<\/p>\n<p>The dolphin\u00a0we had Wednesday evening\u00a0was the best yet.<\/p>\n<p>Some very special fresh\u00a0onions played supporting roles in the preparation of both the fish<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9358\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/red_pearl_onions.jpg\" alt=\"red_pearl_onions\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>..and the vegetable.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9359\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/fresh_green_onions.jpg\" alt=\"fresh_green_onions\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one dolphin fillet, about 13 ounces, from Blue Moon Seafood, halved lengthwise, dry-marinated with more than half a tablespoon of organic lemon zest, an equal amount of chopped thyme leaves from Stokes Farm, salt, and pepper, set aside for 30\u00a0minutes or so, divided lengthwise into 2 pieces, and\u00a0seared inside a hot heavy, oval copper fish pan for about 3 minutes, former skin side up, turned over, and that side seared for the same length of time, the heat lowered and the pan loosely covered for a very few minutes with aluminum foil\u00a0just before\u00a0some thin<em>-ish<\/em> slices of very small French Leeks from Mountain Sweet Berry\u00a0Farm and one\u00a0small <em>red<\/em> pearl onion from Paffenroth Farms, sliced,\u00a0were introduced and briefly saut\u00e9ed along with the fish\u00a0before the\u00a0fish was removed and put onto plates, after which a bit of <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/07\/30\/sea-robin-tapenade-garlic-chili-grilled-patty-pan-lovage\/\">leftover<\/a> black olive tapenade (Gaeta olives, brined wild capers, one\u00a0salted anchovy, all from Buon Italia, some chopped fresh thyme from Stokes Farm) after it had first been mixed with a tiny amount of\u00a0Rioja wine vinegar, was added to the pan and stirred, the now richly-savory\u00a0pan juices poured over the top of the fish<\/li>\n<li>four small green and yellow summer squash from Berried Treasures Farm, sliced into thick disks and saut\u00e9ed with 2 garlic cloves from Norwich Meadows farm, halved, until they had begun to caramelize, while\u00a0halfway through their cooking 2\u00a0fresh \u2018green onions\u2019 from Berried Treasures, sliced fairly thinly, were added, and a little later, parts of one \u2018cherry bomb\u2019 (or \u2018red bomb\u2019) pepper from Norwich Meadows Farm,\u00a0and everything continued to cook until both squash and onions had\u00a0begun to caramelize, the pan removed from the flame and fresh chopped\u00a0fennel fronds from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.willowwisporganic.com\/\">Willow Wisp Farm <\/a>were mixed into the vegetables (I had intended to sprinkle the beautiful\u00a0fennel flowers themselves on the top once the vegetables had been served, but became distracted by the process with the dolphin and totally forgot to do so)<\/li>\n<li>one\u00a0yellow-orange heirloom tomato from Down Home Acres and 4 of\u00a0\u2018the best cherry tomatoes&#8217; from Stokes Farm, sliced, tossed together,\u00a0dressed with a good Campania olive oil, salt, pepper, balsamic\u00a0vinegar, some chopped lovage from Keith&#8217;s Farm, and served in low bowls on the side<\/li>\n<li>the wine was an Italian (Campania) white, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.feudi.it\/vini\/falanghina\/\">Falanghina Feudi di San Gregorio 2014<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=149334\">Mozart&#8217;s Symphonies Nos.\u00a032, 35, and 36, performed by John Eliot Gardiner <\/a>and the\u00a0English Baroque Soloists<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This fish doesn&#8217;t get much respect. This has been true even after some\u00a0people\u00a0decided it would go over better if it were called &#8216;mahi -mahi,&#8217; rather than the traditional, &#8216;dolphin&#8217;, or &#8216;dolphinfish&#8217;, important in both western cuisine and\u00a0art\u00a0for 4 millennia (long before Hawaii turned up). I came close to exhausting the topic,\u00a0once before,\u00a0at least as it &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9336","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9336","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9336"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9336\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9336"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9336"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9336"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}