{"id":9056,"date":"2016-08-09T00:09:39","date_gmt":"2016-08-09T00:09:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=9056"},"modified":"2016-08-09T00:09:39","modified_gmt":"2016-08-09T00:09:39","slug":"duck-tomato-garum-oxalis-cress-purple-carrot-fennel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=9056","title":{"rendered":"duck, tomato &#8216;garum&#8217;, oxalis; cress; purple carrot, fennel"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9059\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/duck_breast_purple_carrots.jpg\" alt=\"duck_breast_purple_carrots\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Until the night before cooking this meal I hadn&#8217;t thought about the fact that there had been no\u00a0meat entr\u00e9e on our table in almost\u00a02 weeks. It was probably my thinking about\u00a0the\u00a0purple\u00a0carrots I had bought a few days earlier that made me think I should\u00a0prepare something, with a little substance than seafood, a frittata, or a light pasta, something, well,..\u00a0&#8216;meaty&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>Just before the meal\u00a0I found myself\u00a0extending the idea of &#8216;substantial&#8217; to thoughts about\u00a0a sauce, something I rarely do to the very simple recipe I regularly use.<\/p>\n<p>Some of you\u00a0may know of and even share my interest in &#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2003\/10\/22\/dining\/essence-of-anchovy-from-the-amalfi-coast.html\">garum<\/a>&#8216; (at least from afar).\u00a0It seems I may have tripped over\u00a0a vegetable near-equivalent, although one with a taste far less\u00a0difficult\u00a0to acquire. Just about a week before this meal I had served <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/08\/02\/flounder-tomato-scallion-tarragon-butter-spigarello-garlic\/\">a flounder fillet with a &#8216;tomato butter&#8217;<\/a>. I did not use all of the tomato sauce, so I put what remained in the refrigerator, sealed, later adding to it more\u00a0seasoned heirloom\u00a0tomato juices,\u00a0produced in preparing\u00a0a later meal (I&#8217;m no longer sure which one).<\/p>\n<p>Last night I tasted this still-curing\u00a0little treasure, and decided it would definitely\u00a0work with\u00a0the duck.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>To introduce the meal, there was the most minimal of appetizers, as an excuse to enjoy the remainder of a bottle of wine we had started the night before.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>terrific rustic Italian breadsticks, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mariofongo.com\/eng\/grissini-stirati\/integrali-senza-strutto\">Mario Fongo <em>grissini integrali<\/em><\/a>, from Buon Italia<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a New Mexico (Sierra County) sparkling ros\u00e9, <a href=\"http:\/\/gruetwinery.com\/brut-ros\">Gruet Brut Ros\u00e9<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one 13-ounce\u00a0boneless duck breast from <a href=\"http:\/\/hudsonvalleyduckfarm.com\/\">Hudson Valley Duck Farm<\/a>, the\u00a0fatty side scored in cross hatching with\u00a0a very sharp knife, the entire breast then sprinkled\u00a0with a mixture of sea salt, freshly-ground pepper,\u00a0and a little turbinado sugar (in our kitchen, the bowl of sugar has been\u00a0infused over time with a vanilla bean), the duck\u00a0left standing for 45 minutes or so\u00a0before it was pan-fried, fatty side down first, in a tiny bit of oil over medium heat, usually draining the oil part of the way through (to be strained and used in cooking later, if desired), but I decided not to this time, removed when medium rare and cut into 2\u00a0portions to check for\u00a0doneness (that is, <em>not<\/em> so done), left to sit for several minutes before finishing it with a drizzle of organic lemon, a coating of &#8216;tomato butter&#8217; [described above], a sprinkling of oxalis from Alewife Farm,\u00a0and drops of a very good Campania olive oil (the tenderloin,\u00a0removed earlier from the breast and also marinated, is always\u00a0fried very briefly near the end of the time\u00a0the breast itself is cooking)<\/li>\n<li>wild watercress\u00a0from Max Creek Hatchery, dressed with the Campania olive oil, salt, and pepper<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9077\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/purple_carrots-2.jpg\" alt=\"purple_carrots\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9075\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/fennel_flowers.jpg\" alt=\"fennel_flowers\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In the photograph at the top of this post\u00a0the carrots look charred, in reality, it&#8217;s an attribute\u00a0of their color[s] (that is, purple outside, lighter, almost orange, inside, before they are cooked), a little intentional caramelizing\u00a0on their edges, and the available light.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>purple carrots from Paffenroth Farms, scrubbed, lightly-scraped with a paring knife, cut into small diagonal pieces, and, to avoid a hot oven last night, saut\u00e9ed until tender on top of the range in a large seasoned cast iron frying pan, some sea salt added while doing so, then sprinkled with freshly-ground pepper and served scattered\u00a0with fennel flowers from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the main course was a California (North Coast) red, the gift of a friend, <a href=\"http:\/\/cartlidgeandbrowne.com\/\">Cartlidge &amp; Browne Merlot 2013<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>the music for most of the meal was the album, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Name\/National-Philharmonic-Of-Moldova\/Ensemble\/390573-4\">&#8216;Miklos Rozsa&#8217;s Double Life: Concert Music For Strings&#8217;<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Until the night before cooking this meal I hadn&#8217;t thought about the fact that there had been no\u00a0meat entr\u00e9e on our table in almost\u00a02 weeks. It was probably my thinking about\u00a0the\u00a0purple\u00a0carrots I had bought a few days earlier that made me think I should\u00a0prepare something, with a little substance than seafood, a frittata, or a &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9056","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9056","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9056"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9056\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9056"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9056"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9056"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}