{"id":8267,"date":"2016-05-20T06:06:03","date_gmt":"2016-05-20T06:06:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=8267"},"modified":"2016-05-20T06:06:03","modified_gmt":"2016-05-20T06:06:03","slug":"zito-garlic-fiddleheads-ramps-tomato-lemon-parmesan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=8267","title":{"rendered":"zito, garlic, fiddleheads, ramps, tomato, lemon, parmesan"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"zito_fiddleheads_ramps\"<\/p>\n

I think\u00a0that the appeal, arguably inordinate, of both ramps and fiddlehead ferns lies in some combination of their perceived status as harbingers of the real growing season, their fleeting appearance, and their romantic character as\u00a0forage plants. Together these very particular attributes\u00a0mean they have a status not entirely unrelated to the plant which which lent its name to\u00a0the 17th-century tulip bubble. If it were just about the taste, both the North American wild onion\u00a0and the ostrich fern might occupy positions little distinguishable from any of our other vegetables, but we have raised both\u00a0to a status little supported by\u00a0the intrinsic value of either.<\/p>\n

\"fiddleheads_Tamarck_Hollow\"<\/p>\n

I’m writing this\u00a0as a cook, one who is very aware\u00a0of\u00a0the\u00a0genuine\u00a0appeal of both of these plants, but still mindful of the fact that for most of us their most engaging\u00a0virtue (as forage spoils)\u00a0cannot actually\u00a0be realized, since the ‘finding’ has been accomplished by others, who then sell them to us in farmers’ markets.<\/p>\n

\"ramps_Beried_Treasures\"<\/p>\n

This meal included both of these spring treasures, as well as a certain number\u00a0of ingredients whose supply is somewhat more regular.<\/p>\n

No hurray: Like so many dishes which combine disparate ingredients, the taste of this one improved dramatically as it slid\u00a0closer to room temperature.<\/p>\n