{"id":7412,"date":"2016-03-16T00:14:25","date_gmt":"2016-03-16T00:14:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=7412"},"modified":"2016-03-16T00:14:25","modified_gmt":"2016-03-16T00:14:25","slug":"scallops-with-herb-butter-tomatoes-cress-mustard-greens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=7412","title":{"rendered":"scallops with herb butter; tomatoes, cress; mustard greens"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/scallops_tomato_mustard_greens.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-7414\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7414\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/scallops_tomato_mustard_greens.jpg\" alt=\"scallops_tomato_mustard_greens\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>almost\u00a0over the top, at least by my\u00a0measure<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I rarely include\u00a0a cream sauce in any of my cooking, and in fact the finishing touch on these scallops was not actually\u00a0a\u00a0cream sauce, but a &#8216;composed butter&#8217; which included\u00a0fish juices, herbs and wild garlic, a small remainder from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/03\/04\/pan-seared-tilefish-with-wild-garlic-herbs-potatoes-mizuna\/\">this earlier meal<\/a>, kept frozen in a ramekin until now.<\/p>\n<p>The picture above is\u00a0very unlike\u00a0the\u00a0usual images of pan-grilled scallops found on this blog (<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2015\/10\/31\/scallops-with-basil-tomatoes-triggerfish-lovage-lacinato\/\">this one<\/a> is my favorite), which are frankly more to my taste, but I couldn&#8217;t resist pursuing the experiment this time.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve had the small ramekin on my mind for two weeks, hoping to arrange a perfect [second] marriage for it. \u00a0I&#8217;m more familiar with composed butters as a final touch for grilled <em>steaks<\/em>, a device I&#8217;ve only encountered in\u00a0Julia Childs books; I was afraid that matching\u00a0this one up with shellfish\u00a0might be too much of a stretch, but the result was delicious.<\/p>\n<p>The plans for virtually every element of this meal came together only at the last moment &#8211; in fact only while I was actually already cooking &#8211; and that included\u00a0the treatment of the scallops.<\/p>\n<p>Mildly-aromatic &#8216;wild garlic&#8217; came into play twice during the preparation of\u00a0this dinner,\u00a0as a finish for the tomatoes, and as an important element in the herb butter spread on\u00a0top of the scallops. I&#8217;ll think of this tiny (actually, at least partially domesticated) plant as my first 2016 &#8216;find&#8217; in the Greenmarket. \u00a0It&#8217;s tasty, attractive, pretty versatile, and keeps pretty well. It&#8217;s also the harbinger of a growing\u00a0season which is actually heralded by the first appearance of <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2011\/05\/13\/spaghetti-with-ramps\/\">ramps<\/a>, which, while definitely wild, have become a fixture, a tradition, for\u00a0both the farmers\u00a0and their happy city customers.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/wild_garlic.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-7426\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7426\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/wild_garlic.jpg\" alt=\"wild_garlic\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>ten sea scallops from P.E. &amp; D. D. Seafood,\u00a0washed, rinsed and dried\u00a0<em>very<\/em>\u00a0thoroughly, generously seasoned with salt and pepper, pan grilled a minute or so on each side,\u00a0finished on the plates with a squeeze of juice from\u00a0a local lemon grown by\u00a0Fantastic Gardens of Long Island, drizzled with a little olive oil, and spread with a preserved butter which included tilefish juices combined wild garlic from Lani&#8217;s Farm, fresh parsley (Eataly), thyme (Forager\u2019s), lovage (Two Guys from Woodbridge), sage (Eataly), and oregano (Stoke&#8217;s Farm)<\/li>\n<li>eight\u00a0Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Whole Foods, halved, saut\u00e9ed in a little olive oil until beginning to soften, seasoned with salt and pepper, removed and\u00a0placed on a bed of tiny, only slightly-peppery cress, &#8220;a basal rosette of baby-arugula-like winter cress&#8221;, according to the grower\/seller, Lani&#8217;s Farm (and in fact <a href=\"http:\/\/blog.emergencyoutdoors.com\/edible-wild-plants-winter-cress-yellow-rocket-barbarea-vulgaris\/\">also basically &#8216;wild&#8217;<\/a>?), then\u00a08 or 10\u00a0finely-chopped wild garlic plants, also from Lani&#8217;s Farm (including bulbs, white and green stems) immediately\u00a0tossed\u00a0into the still-warm pan in which the\u00a0tomatoes had cooked,\u00a0stirred a few seconds, the garlic and tomato juices poured on top of the tomatoes themselves<\/li>\n<li>red mustard greens from Norwich Meadows Farm,\u00a0wilted in a little\u00a0oil which had already warmed 1 halved\u00a0clove of bruised garlic from\u00a0John D. Madura Farm, seasoned with salt and pepper, finished with a drizzle of oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a California (Clarksburg)\u00a0white, <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/david-akiyoshi-reserve-chardonnay-2014.htm\">Akiyoshi Reserve Chardonnay Clarksburg 2014<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was a number of works by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/uk-news\/2016\/mar\/14\/composer-peter-maxwell-davies-dies-aged-81\">Sir Peter Maxwell Davies<\/a>, beginning with his\u00a0&#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.gramophone.co.uk\/review\/maxwell-davies-mavis-in-las-vegas\">Mavis in\u00a0Las Vegas<\/a>&#8216;, and the other entertaining pieces on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=120152\">this recording<\/a>,\u00a0and ending with <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Drilldown?name_id1=7871&amp;name_role1=1&amp;bcorder=1&amp;comp_id=586596\">his very serious last symphony, <\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/en.m.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giacomo_Leopardi\">Symphony No. 10 (&#8220;Alla ricerca di Borromini&#8221;), <\/a>which includes a sonnet to and text of by <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Francesco_Borromini\">Francesco Borromini<\/a>, and poetry\u00a0by <a href=\"https:\/\/en.m.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giacomo_Leopardi\">Giacomo Leopardi<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>almost\u00a0over the top, at least by my\u00a0measure &nbsp; I rarely include\u00a0a cream sauce in any of my cooking, and in fact the finishing touch on these scallops was not actually\u00a0a\u00a0cream sauce, but a &#8216;composed butter&#8217; which included\u00a0fish juices, herbs and wild garlic, a small remainder from\u00a0this earlier meal, kept frozen in a ramekin until now. &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7412","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7412","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7412"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7412\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7412"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7412"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7412"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}