{"id":7361,"date":"2016-03-11T01:51:42","date_gmt":"2016-03-11T01:51:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=7361"},"modified":"2016-03-11T01:51:42","modified_gmt":"2016-03-11T01:51:42","slug":"fennelchili-grilled-tuna-potato-wild-garlic-lovage-kale","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=7361","title":{"rendered":"fennel\/chili-grilled tuna; potato, wild garlic, lovage; kale"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/tuna_potato_kale.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-7363\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7363\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/tuna_potato_kale.jpg\" alt=\"tuna_potato_kale\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We hadn&#8217;t seen our friends in years; they were visiting from London and Norfolk, and they were coming\u00a0to dinner. I wanted to serve something fine, but I didn&#8217;t want to spend all of my time in the kitchen once they arrived.<\/p>\n<p>The solution seemed obvious: To start there&#8217;d be\u00a0a good salumi on plates with some excellent greens, and we would end with some very good cheeses. The main course would almost certainly have to be fish (to show off our local bounty and its quality, and because I wanted it to require little heat,\u00a0because the weather was so very mild), and it would\u00a0also\u00a0have to\u00a0be very\u00a0simple and quickly\u00a0assembled.<\/p>\n<p>Grilled tuna, of course.<\/p>\n<p>My plans were confounded early in the day\u00a0by the fact that I arrived too late at the Greenmarket: the tuna was already gone.\u00a0 Seeing nothing that would be a good substitute, I headed south, because of the\u00a0logistics, to Citarella rather than The Lobster Place, while knowing that if need be, I would have the latter as a fallback.<\/p>\n<p>All of which is\u00a0to say is that, while the tuna was delicious, and from the northwest Atlantic waters, it was not purchased at the Greenmarket, directly from the fisherman or his colleague. I had to tell that to our friends, while extolling the otherwise locavore character (except for the Speck) of the the meal we were sharing.<\/p>\n<p>The meal began, after a taste of whole wheat <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mariofongo.com\/ita\/grissini-stirati\">Mario Fongo<em> grissini stirati<\/em><\/a>\u00a0and mixed black olives from Buon Italia, with a light course of salumi.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>thinly-sliced <em><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=Alto+Adige+Speck\">Alto Adige Speck<\/a><\/em> from Eataly, each piece rolled around the tines of a fork\u00a0and put on a plate, drizzled with some very good olive oil, accompanied by\u00a0upland cress from Alewife Farm, seasoned and dressed with some good oil and drops of local hot house Lisbon lemon from Fantastic Gardens of Long Island<\/li>\n<li>to accompany the Speck and greens we had\u00a0an\u00a0Eric Kayser \u2018baguette monge\u2019 to tear into<\/li>\n<li>the wine was\u00a0a New Mexico (Sierra County) sparkling, <a href=\"http:\/\/gruetwinery.com\/blanc-de-noirs\">Gruet Blanc de Noirs\u00a0<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The main course was assembled pretty quickly after we had finished the salumi and cress, because I had started boiling the potatoes the moment before we\u00a0sat down to the\u00a0first.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two 10\u00a0or\u00a011-ounce tuna steaks from the Village\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.citarella.com\/\">Citarella<\/a>,\u00a0each halved, their tops an bottoms rubbed with a mix of a generous amount of dry fennel seed and one crushed\u00a0medium-to-large dried <a href=\"http:\/\/www.sardissimo.com\/\">Itria-Sirissi<\/a>\u00a0chili,\u00a0<em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zafferanodisardegna.it\/peperoncino.htm#PEPERONCINO INTERO ITRIA\">peperoncino di Sardegna intero<\/a><\/em>\u00a0from Buon Italia, ground together, additionally seasoned with salt and pepper, then pan-grilled for only a little more than a minute and a half\u00a0on each side, finished with a good squeeze of a\u00a0Lemon grown locally by Fantastic Gardens of Long Island, and a drizzle of olive oil [the recipe is from\u00a0Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, found in &#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.strandbooks.com\/product\/italian-easy-recipes-from-the-river-cafe\">Italian Easy&#8217;; Recipes from the London River Cafe<\/a>&#8216;]<\/li>\n<li>red Norland potatoes from Lucky Dog Organic Farm and John D. Madura Farm (these potatoes are especially\u00a0sweet by March), scrubbed, boiled in salted water unpeeled, halved, tossed with olive oil and chopped wild garlic from Lani\u2019s Farm, sprinkled with chopped lovage from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>a few handfuls of delicious green and purple-colored flat-leaf Winterbor kale from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.tamarackhollowfarm.com\/\">Tamarack Hollow Farm<\/a>,\u00a0saut\u00e9ed in olive oil in which 4\u00a0medium cloves of garlic from John D. Madura Farm had first been allowed to sweat and begun to brown, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a dash of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the tuna, potatoes, and kale was a Portuguese (D\u00e3o)\u00a0white, <a href=\"http:\/\/casademouraz.blogspot.com\/\">Casa de Mouraz<\/a>, D\u00e3o Blanco \u2018Encruzado\u2019 2013,\u00a0from <a href=\"http:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/casa-de-mouraz-dao-blanco-encruzado-2013.html\">Flatiron Wines &amp; Spirits<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The cheese course followed after we had lingered a bit following the main.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the cheeses were\u00a0Consider Bardwell&#8217;s \u2018Experience\u2019, a pasteurized cow cheese; their\u00a0\u2018Manchester\u2019 goat\u00a0cheese; and an adaged goat cheese from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vermontcreamery.com\/\">Vermont Creamery<\/a>,\u00a0&#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vermontcreamery.com\/coupole-1\">Coupole<\/a>&#8216;, purchased at Citarella while I was there for the tuna<\/li>\n<li>the breads with the cheeses\u00a0were\u00a0thin slices of\u00a0potato bread (Balthazar\u2019s &#8216;Potato Fendu\u2019) from Whole Foods, toasted; and\u00a0slices of Eric Kayser&#8217;s &#8216;Baguette Monge&#8217; which remained from the first and second courses<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the cheese was a Spanish (Valladolid) white, <a href=\"http:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/martinsancho-rueda-verdejo-2013.html\">Martinsancho Rueda Verdejo 2014<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout the meal was our own conversation<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We hadn&#8217;t seen our friends in years; they were visiting from London and Norfolk, and they were coming\u00a0to dinner. I wanted to serve something fine, but I didn&#8217;t want to spend all of my time in the kitchen once they arrived. The solution seemed obvious: To start there&#8217;d be\u00a0a good salumi on plates with some &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7361","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7361","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7361"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7361\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7361"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7361"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7361"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}