{"id":6485,"date":"2015-12-26T21:00:52","date_gmt":"2015-12-26T21:00:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=6485"},"modified":"2015-12-26T21:00:52","modified_gmt":"2015-12-26T21:00:52","slug":"smoked-cod-squab-juniper-grapes-sweet-potato-collards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=6485","title":{"rendered":"cod; squab, juniper, grapes; sweet potato; collards; struffoli"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/sable_sauce_cress.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6492\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/sable_sauce_cress.jpg\" alt=\"sable_sauce_cress\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>it seems Barry couldn&#8217;t wait to start, but it had been some time since lunch<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>It was the 25th of December, and so it was an almost perfect excuse for a feast.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>3 ounces of smoked wild Alaskan black cod (sable) from Blue Hill Bay Smoked Seafood, via The Lobster Place, brought to room temperature and served with a sauce of cr\u00e9me Fra\u00eeche from Ronnybrook Farms stirred with zest and juice from an unidentified small citrus fruit from Fantastic Gardens (it\u00a0looked and tasted a bit like a ripe, small\u00a0yellow lime), 5\u00a0whole tiny\u00a0chive plants from Rogowski Farm, scissored from the bottom all the way into the green tops, and a little chopped tarragon from Stokes Farm, with\u00a0cress from Max Creek Hatchery, dressed with good olive oil and more lemon\/line juice, and some Grand Daisy Pugliese toasts on the side<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a German (Pfalz)\u00a0white, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rudiwiest.com\/estates\/becker-estate-pfalz-germany\/\">Becker Family Pinot Blanc, 2013<\/a>, which <a href=\"http:\/\/appellationnyc.com\/\">Appellation Wines<\/a> was kind enough to special order for us when we asked them to<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/squab_sweet_potatoes_collards.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6495\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/squab_sweet_potatoes_collards.jpg\" alt=\"squab_sweet_potatoes_collards\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.ediblemanhattan.com\/recipes\/tastes-like-chicken\/\">Pigeon<\/a>. These weren&#8217;t wood pigeons, which are smaller, leaner, tastier, but wild, and therefore\u00a0cannot be sold inside the U.S., but these domestic squab were\u00a0almost as delicious, and at least there were no worries about biting into shot.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>2 air-chilled California squab from D\u2019Artagnan, via O. Ottomanelli &amp; Sons Meat Market, seasoned with salt and pepper inside and out, cooked, breast side down, in rendered goose fat (gifted from our hosts the night before), turning a few times, until richly browned all over (about 12 \u00a0minutes), before being\u00a0transferred to\u00a0a tin-lined copper au gratin pan, the cavities rubbed with 2 tablespoons of softened butter which had been mixed with 2 teaspoons of crushed juniper berries, each bird covered with a round of sliced guanciale (also from\u00a0O. Ottomanelli &amp; Sons), then surrounded in the pan by nearly a cup of seedless California white grapes from Whole Foods, placed in\u00a0the upper third of\u00a0a 450\u00ba oven for about 15-20 minutes, or until the thickest part of the thighs\u00a0had been cooked to medium-rare, removed and let rest for about 5 minutes<\/li>\n<li>Japanese sweet potatoes from Lani\u2019s Farm, unpeeled, but washed thoroughly, cut as french fries, tossed in a bowl with olive oil, salt, and pepper, than roasted above 400\u00ba in my trusty\u00a0well-seasoned\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pamperedchef.com\/shop\/Stoneware\/Stoneware+Large+Bar+Pan\/1445\">Pampered Chef<\/a>\u00a0unglazed ceramic oven pan for about 35-40 minutes<\/li>\n<li>red collard greens from Tamarack Hollow Farm, cut in\u00a0a rough chiffonade, then braised in a heavy pot in which one halved rocambole garlic head from Keith\u2019s Farm had been allowed to sweat in some olive oil, the dish finished with salt, pepper, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of juice\u00a0from\u00a0the same lemon\/lime described above<\/li>\n<li>the wine was an Italian (Sicily) white, <a href=\"http:\/\/vinicolabenanti.it\/en\/vini\/etna_02.php\">Benanti Etna Rosso, Rosso di Verzella 2013<\/a>, from <a href=\"http:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/benanti-etna-rosso-rossodiverzella-2013.html\">Flatiron Wines &amp; Spirits<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/struffoli.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6497\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/struffoli.jpg\" alt=\"struffoli\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>If I retain any Christmas traditions from any of my past lives, <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=struffoli\">struffoli<\/a> is one of them, and it\u00a0can always make me smile.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the struffoli was from Buon Italia<\/li>\n<li>the music was a continuation of\u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.wqxr.org\/#!\/\">WQXR<\/a>\u2018s annual 10-day, year-end <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cc-seas.columbia.edu\/wkcr\/story\/bach-festival-2015\">Bach Festival<\/a>, streaming until midnight, New Years Eve<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>it seems Barry couldn&#8217;t wait to start, but it had been some time since lunch &nbsp; It was the 25th of December, and so it was an almost perfect excuse for a feast. 3 ounces of smoked wild Alaskan black cod (sable) from Blue Hill Bay Smoked Seafood, via The Lobster Place, brought to room &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6485","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6485","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6485"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6485\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6485"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6485"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6485"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}